RubiDawg in his infancy

GAdawg88

New member
A couple picks snapped on a local forestry road enroute to the archery range this weekend. I regret not having taken any pics of him when I picked the Jeep up, but this one started life as a bone stock Sport with manual everything, brilliance in the basics and simplicity! Right now it sits on a 2/1 TF leveling boost, with Quadratec Max Duty nitro shocks and 285/75R16 Falken AT3/W tires. T20170102_102709.jpghe bumper is a Barricade Trail force and the winch cover is hiding an old smittybilt I took off my old Explorer. The lights are Arsenal Offroad 4.5" LEDs. Have plans for a front axle upgrade, lockers, an Evo Enforcer kit, Barricade rear bumper/carrier, a full set of skids, and 315/75R16 tires on mammoth wheels...all as soon as the money is saved up. Will post pics of the tear down and build up soon as those days are here. 20170102_103054.jpg20170102_103026.jpg

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Thanks! I have a love hate relationship with build threads right now. Find a lot of awesome ideas and info in them but then some of them send me to my quadratec catalog where I spend the evening drooling in jealousy. Patience has never been my strong suit.

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Build Plan

Fellow Wayalifers, ts been a minute since I've logged in; however, since the last time I was here, I have come up with a build plan that I believe will work for me. After some long hard (sometimes painful) thought wherein, I had to be honest with myself on what kind of wheeling I can afford to do over the next several years, I decided this build will have to be done in two stages, as I'll be sticking with my 33's for at least another three years. I've already listed, in previous posts, all the goodies that my Jeep currently has installed. That being said, below are the stages and parts I have come up with. Definately open to some critique/suggestions from any of you all with more Jeepin experience than myself, just keep in mind, this will be a daily driver that sees regular trails on the weekends.

Stage One:
Front Axle Locker: Ox Locker w/ Manual Cable Actuator
Rear Axle Locker: Ox Locker w/Manual Cable Actuator
Front axle Shafts: Alloy USA 4340 Axle Shaft Kit
Armor: Evo Protek Skid System
Rear Bumper: Barricade Trailforce w/ Tire Carrier
Winch Upgrade: Warn VR-10
Dual Battery Kit w/ High Output Alternator
Headlight Upgrade: JW Speaker 8700 Evolution LED

Stage Two:
Suspension: Evo Enforcer 3" Plushride w/ Bilstein 5100 Shocks
Re-gearing: Alloy USA 4:56 Ring & Pinion set
Front Driveshaft: JE Reel 1310 Heavy duty
Front Axle Support: Evo Protek D30 Armor Kit w/ C-Gussets
Armor: Evo 4-Door Rock Sliders
Wheels & Tires: 17x9 wheels and 315/70R17 tires TBD.
Performance: Superchips Flashpaq Programmer
Brake Upgrade: DynaTrac Pro-Grip brake kit

I will also be adding some walmart rock lights and a factory fender chop (thanks to eddies write ups and videos in the Tech threads) and some other less functional goodies sprinkled in as the build goes on, but for now, what you see above is the direction it looks to be going. Looking forward to your input!
 
If I may I would suggest doing your regear and locker upgrade at the same time, otherwise you will be spending that money twice since the locker will have to come back out and be re set up with your new gear set anyway, the locker you choose may now may not work for that low of a gear set, and you will most likely have to buy another install kit as well. As far as the locker goes I've seen the OX lockers up close and I don't think they are a bad locker but I don't like the cable version as the ones I've seen the cable has to push to engage and they always seem to come out of adjustment but you can upgrade to an air version later without removing the locker.


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If I may I would suggest doing your regear and locker upgrade at the same time, otherwise you will be spending that money twice since the locker will have to come back out and be re set up with your new gear set anyway, the locker you choose may now may not work for that low of a gear set, and you will most likely have to buy another install kit as well. As far as the locker goes I've seen the OX lockers up close and I don't think they are a bad locker but I don't like the cable version as the ones I've seen the cable has to push to engage and they always seem to come out of adjustment but you can upgrade to an air version later without removing the locker.


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^what he said. If it were me I'd switch a couple things around and do your lockers and gears at the same time. The labor is the most expensive part of all that. Could save yourself a grand or more just by doing it at the same time.


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I would only put the c gussets on the d30 and pass on the 1310 driveshaft, your stock one is a 1330 so if you're gonna spend that money might as well go with a 1350. Just my opinion, jeeps are expensive so you might as well not spend money on parts you don't need or will end up changing again later.


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I would only put the c gussets on the d30 and pass on the 1310 driveshaft, your stock one is a 1330 so if you're gonna spend that money might as well go with a 1350. Just my opinion, jeeps are expensive so you might as well not spend money on parts you don't need or will end up changing again later.


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Troof. Had no idea the stock shafts was a 1330. Guess I will go with a 1350. My main justification for the driveshaft upgrade was not necessarily for the strength, but because I have read in several places it would be required with a 3" lift, and I don't want to run exhaust spacers that would interfere with installing skids.

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If I may I would suggest doing your regear and locker upgrade at the same time, otherwise you will be spending that money twice since the locker will have to come back out and be re set up with your new gear set anyway, the locker you choose may now may not work for that low of a gear set, and you will most likely have to buy another install kit as well. As far as the locker goes I've seen the OX lockers up close and I don't think they are a bad locker but I don't like the cable version as the ones I've seen the cable has to push to engage and they always seem to come out of adjustment but you can upgrade to an air version later without removing the locker.


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Had actually thought about this at one point. Ox does offer lockers that will work with rings from 3.73 to 4.88, and I'm lucky enough to have a good friend that has installed many a differential and has the tools, calipers and understands how to set back lash and shims, so we can do the install in the garage, will cost me a pizza and a 30 rack. BUT...I had a conversation with another JK owner today, who suggested an ARB Traction Pack, so I may wait a bit for lockers and do that with the re-gear, he brought up the point that having air lockers also means having on-board air for airing down and refilling.

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Had actually thought about this at one point. Ox does offer lockers that will work with rings from 3.73 to 4.88, and I'm lucky enough to have a good friend that has installed many a differential and has the tools, calipers and understands how to set back lash and shims, so we can do the install in the garage, will cost me a pizza and a 30 rack. BUT...I had a conversation with another JK owner today, who suggested an ARB Traction Pack, so I may wait a bit for lockers and do that with the re-gear, he brought up the point that having air lockers also means having on-board air for airing down and refilling.

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FWIW - you can get an air compressor from Harbor Freight for pretty cheap and just connect it to your battery and run it when you need to air up. I've seen a few people with this low cost solution and that's what I'm going to end up doing since I'm going with an E-locker.


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FWIW - you can get an air compressor from Harbor Freight for pretty cheap and just connect it to your battery and run it when you need to air up. I've seen a few people with this low cost solution and that's what I'm going to end up doing since I'm going with an E-locker.


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I'd be careful with a cheap compressor. On a run this summer, a guy had a cheap one and was using it for the first time. It quit working after a couple minutes and wasn't the circuit breaker, it just quit. Not saying you have to go all out, but i would at least get something with decent reviews.
 
I'd be careful with a cheap compressor. On a run this summer, a guy had a cheap one and was using it for the first time. It quit working after a couple minutes and wasn't the circuit breaker, it just quit. Not saying you have to go all out, but i would at least get something with decent reviews.
Have to agree with this. I love Harbor Freight and Northern Tool, but there's some things I just won't buy from them and compressors are one of those things. My dad operated a cabinet shop when I was a kid, bought all kinds of things from HF, including two air compressors for portable tanks, one caught fire and the other just stopped working, neither lasted more than six months.

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Right now it sits on a 2/1 TF leveling boost, with Quadratec Max Duty nitro shocks

This is what I was looking for. (I posted a question about it here: https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/48965-Leveing-Kit-amp-Shocks). I just ordered those same parts to replace mine (which I damaged); I ordered the 4-shock kit which said it was good for 0-1.5" lifts (but the individual parts say 0-1.0" lifts). You didn't specify the shock length you went with ... just curious, the same? Bigger? Besides these new parts, I've got a stock rubicon suspension.
 
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