Passenger knuckle hub bolt

Jackal01

Jackal01

Caught the Bug
I was in the process of trying to remove the lower bolt, on the back side of the hub/unit bearing when it broke inside. All the others were removed without issue. I tried vise grips. No dice. I was already tired by then so I'm done for the night. I'm thinking either: drill it out from the inside or using an extractor bit, which I don't have. Anyone have any input?

I am installing new knuckles which is the reason for all this.

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Could you dremel two sides flat so you could get a wrench on it? Also, tonight, soak that thing in penetrating oil, which I assume you did.

Are the threads still holding the unit bearing and knuckle together or did it break in a way where you can get the bearing off?
 
OverlanderJK said:
I would try the vice grips again after letting it sit in PB blaster and if that doesn't work do the extractor.


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Ten four. I doused it with pb blaster when i finished. Ill Let it sit tonight then I'll spray more before work. Come home and try again. I'll pick up an extractor for plan B.
 
WJCO said:
Could you dremel two sides flat so you could get a wrench on it? Also, tonight, soak that thing in penetrating oil, which I assume you did.

Are the threads still holding the unit bearing and knuckle together or did it break in a way where you can get the bearing off?
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Soaked it yes. It looks like they are still being held together but I also haven't tried removing anything. I did try the driver side and it hasn't budged so I assume passenger will be the same.

Didn't think about the Dremel...not a bad idea.
OverlanderJK said:
Other more expensive option would be just replacing the unit bearing.


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Yea this is already an expensive, unplanned project but that is an option I guess. This all needs to be fixed before Friday when we go camping. Knuckles arrive Thursday.
 
Jackal01 said:
Soaked it yes. It looks like they are still being held together but I also haven't tried removing anything. I did try the driver side and it hasn't budged so I assume passenger will be the same.

Didn't think about the Dremel...not a bad idea.

Yea this is already an expensive, unplanned project but that is an option I guess. This all needs to be fixed before Friday when we go camping. Knuckles arrive Thursday.
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If you can get them apart, I'm just thinking it will be easier if you have to extract the bolt. Good luck.
 
WJCO said:
If you can get them apart, I'm just thinking it will be easier if you have to extract the bolt. Good luck.
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I agree with removing the bolt as the easieat option. Just looked again. Compared the intact bolts to the broken one and it broke at the threads. So all the threads are still inside.
 
Jackal01 said:
I agree with removing the bolt as the easieat option. Just looked again. Compared the intact bolts to the broken one and it broke at the threads. So all the threads are still inside.
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It's been awhile since I did one, but thinking about it, I'm not sure there are even female threads in the knuckle.... so, if you slide hammer that bitch off, it may just come apart. You'll still have to get the bolt out of the bearing of course.
 
WJCO said:
It's been awhile since I did one, but thinking about it, I'm not sure there are even female threads in the knuckle.... so, if you slide hammer that bitch off, it may just come apart. You'll still have to get the bolt out of the bearing of course.
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That is correct. A mallet will help getting the unit bearing off if a slide hammer isn't available.


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If u have access to a torch use a torch to heat the area around the broken bolt one I get it out of the knuckle. I use a small 2 lbs sledge at work and hit the hub with it not to had but a few decent wacks and they usually pop out. I've have had a few stubborn ones that I've put the bolts back into and put a socket on the head of the bolt with a extension and use a hammer on the extension to pop them out. Sometimes you can also use a socket and short extension and turn the steering wheel left or right and the extension will press up against the c of the axel and will press the hub out. Do it while the engine is running. Takes two people


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you could put the rotor on backwards and bolts on enough to leave some space for the rotor to slide out - use it as your slide hammer, it'll apply equal force around the hub then you can extract the bolt

also, you could put the other bolts in just enough to get thread showing flush than using the socket to protect the bolt heads, hit them with a hammer to break the hub loose, you can hit the broken bolt direct - looks like this was already advised above
 
If your going to end up replacing the hub anyway than just smack the shit out of the old one to get it off. Before you put the new one on tho make sure you clean up the knuckles and put some anti seize all around it for easier removal in the future


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if there are no threads in the bearing, and the bolt head snapped of, try to "Persuade" the knuckle off with a BIG flat head or Crowbar... I can maybe swing by. I'll text you back today, I was super busy yesterday. :thumb:
 
DWiggles said:
if there are no threads in the bearing, and the bolt head snapped of, try to "Persuade" the knuckle off with a BIG flat head or Crowbar... I can maybe swing by. I'll text you back today, I was super busy yesterday. :thumb:
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Awesome. Let me know. I'm gonna see if FIL can come by too. I ordered a new bolt from the STEALERship. $8 per bolt. I wanted to replace all 6 but $50...no way.
 
Forget my earlier post. Don't know how i missed your last post.


Also, get all new bolts when you put it back together. The bolts are $5 each on quadratec.
 
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