2013 Sahara build

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agiron

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I'm trying to decide on a lift, it's going to be a DD so ride quality is paramount. What size lift do I need to run 37's with out replacing fenders right away. Eventually I will replace fenders but I'm doing this in steps.

Thanks in advance for your input


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agiron said:
I'm trying to decide on a lift, it's going to be a DD so ride quality is paramount. What size lift do I need to run 37's with out replacing fenders right away. Eventually I will replace fenders but I'm doing this in steps.

Thanks in advance for your input


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Click to expand...

You can run 37's on minimal lift with cutting your factory flares.
However, I would consider if that is truly the tire size you want to run.
37's aren't cheap to build for, to do it properly at least.
Ontop of a lift, you will need to replace your front axle (if you actually wheel hard), re-gear, front driveshaft etc.
I would recommend looking into the EVO Enforcer lift, and pairing it with a good set of shocks.
It is significantly cheaper to run 35's, and this is more than capable for most people.
Consider how much you actually wheel your Jeep, and make the decision based upon that.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'm planning on putting a arb locker in the rear and rehearing to 5.13, I was thinking of the metalcloak 3.5. Does anybody have first hand experience with this lift.

Also, with wheels. Is a 17x9 with about 4.5 back spacing suitable for 12.5" tires whether I go 35 or 37


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agiron said:
I'm planning on putting a arb locker in the rear and rehearing to 5.13, I was thinking of the metalcloak 3.5. Does anybody have first hand experience with this lift.

Also, with wheels. Is a 17x9 with about 4.5 back spacing suitable for 12.5" tires whether I go 35 or 37


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FYI I would NOT run 5:13's on the Dana 30, 4:88 is the lowest you would want to go. Your pinion is too small at that point, and will become the weak point in your Axle.
Backspacing is appropriate, a majority runs 3.5-4.5.
 
agiron said:
I'm trying to decide on a lift, it's going to be a DD so ride quality is paramount. What size lift do I need to run 37's with out replacing fenders right away. Eventually I will replace fenders but I'm doing this in steps.

Thanks in advance for your input
Click to expand...

If you're keeping your factory flares as is, you will want 4" of lift to clear 37's and depending on what kit you get, you may still see some rubbing at a full flex.

JKDream said:
FYI I would NOT run 5:13's on the Dana 30, 4:88 is the lowest you would want to go. Your pinion is too small at that point, and will become the weak point in your Axle.
Backspacing is appropriate, a majority runs 3.5-4.5.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I would NOT run 5.13's on a Dana 30 as the pinion will be way too small.
 
I'm planning on having genders by the spring time, so could I run 37's on 3.5 just driving around?

What kits do you guys have, with the evo enforcer kit it only has two control arms, is that enough? I'd imagine the 4 lowers would be a necessity.

I'm more familiar with tj's so I apologize for all the questions.


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agiron said:
I'm planning on having genders by the spring time, so could I run 37's on 3.5 just driving around?

What kits do you guys have, with the evo enforcer kit it only has two control arms, is that enough? I'd imagine the 4 lowers would be a necessity.

I'm more familiar with tj's so I apologize for all the questions.
Click to expand...

The JK is no TJ and by a long shot. I'm exaggerating a bit but the JK control arms are practically long arms by comparison to TJ arms and really, you only need 2 front adjustable lower arms to help set your caster after installing your lift. If you will be running an aftermarket u-joint style rear drive shaft like you should if you have a 2-door, you will NEED adjustable rear upper arms to set your pinion angle as well. But, that's all you need in spite of what your imagination tells you.
 
I have a 4 door, so what would need to be done if I went with the 4" enforcer kit. Would the front drive shaft need to be replaced?drag link flipped?


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agiron said:
I have a 4 door, so what would need to be done if I went with the 4" enforcer kit. Would the front drive shaft need to be replaced?drag link flipped?
Click to expand...

While you can get around it with exhaust spacers or crossover drops, I personally would recommend that you get a new front drive shaft. Keeping the slip shaft boot from making contact with the exhaust is the least of your problem as the angle your front shaft will sit at will be steep enough that the CV boot at the output shaft will always be in a state of pinch. It won't happen immediately but this pinch will cause the boot to fail sooner than later and once that happens, the bearings inside will fry.

At anything over 3" of lift, I would highly recommend a drag link flip/front track bar relocation as that will help to correct your steering geometry and provide better handling. The perk to it is that it'll also recenter your axle without the need of an adjustable front track bar.
 
wayoflife said:
While you can get around it with exhaust spacers or crossover drops, I personally would recommend that you get a new front drive shaft. Keeping the slip shaft boot from making contact with the exhaust is the least of your problem as the angle your front shaft will sit at will be steep enough that the CV boot at the output shaft will always be in a state of pinch. It won't happen immediately but this pinch will cause the boot to fail sooner than later and once that happens, the bearings inside will fry.

At anything over 3" of lift, I would highly recommend a drag link flip/front track bar relocation as that will help to correct your steering geometry and provide better handling. The perk to it is that it'll also recenter your axle without the need of an adjustable front track bar.
Click to expand...

Any recommendations on track bar relocation brackets? Not sure what brands to look at for one of these...
 
So right now my plan is

-gears, was thinking 5.13 but 4.88 is the better option
-arb rear locker with the twin compressor
-some form of switch panel
-tuner
-intake
-exhaust
-wheels
-tires

Over the next few months I will get the following

-fenders both front and rear
-bumpers both from and rear


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agiron said:
So right now my plan is

-gears, was thinking 5.13 but 4.88 is the better option
-arb rear locker with the twin compressor
-some form of switch panel
-tuner
-intake
-exhaust
-wheels
-tires
Click to expand...

Honestly, if you're determined to run 37's, I might recommend that you still get the 5.13's but then plan on saving up to get a Dynatrac ProRock 44 in the future. Even with 4.88's, you're going to want to upgrade to a ProRock 44 in the future and doing it this way will save you the cost of regearing both ends in the future.

Save your money on a tuner as it just won't be needed if you're running the right gear ratio and 5.13 would be it with 37's.

Don't waste your money on an air intake system as it won't do anything for you other than ruin your engine. Even dealer installed Mopar intakes will cause oil consumption problems and they won't warranty it. Trust me, I've seen it happen.

Painless and Switch Pros both make a nice switch panel system that I would highly recommend.

Dynomax makes a quite crawler system and I would give them a look.
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?...haust-Installed-on-RUBICAT-w-EVO-Lever-System

Over the next few months I will get the following

-fenders both front and rear
-bumpers both from and rear
Click to expand...

I personally would save your money on fenders and would just trim your factory set.
 
agiron said:
So right now my plan is

-gears, was thinking 5.13 but 4.88 is the better option
-arb rear locker with the twin compressor
-some form of switch panel
-tuner
-intake
-exhaust
-wheels
-tires

Over the next few months I will get the following

-fenders both front and rear
-bumpers both from and rear


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Just a couple of suggestions.........skip the intake and maybe skip the exhaust. Skip both if you're just going for performance. It's a Jeep, not a race car. Exhaust can be a bonus if you want more ground clearance or if you just want a different sound.
Fenders you can also skip, you can cut your own OEM ones for free and make them any shape you want.

EDIT: Eddie beat me to it.
 
agiron said:
How would I do with the tuner and 4.88 on 37's
Click to expand...

The performance gains you'll see from a tuner are wishful thinking at best. Anyone who tries to tell you otherwise is just hard pressed to believe they spent so much money on something that did next to nothing for them. There's just no substitute to gears and if anything, 5.38 are what a lot of guys prefer with 37's.
 
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