More beadlock questions

Ddays

Hooked
Since there has been a lot of beadlock threads of late, now seems like a good time to ask some questions.

1)What exactly is illegal about running beadlocks? I understand they are not DOT approved, but why are they not?
Is this simply because they do not wish to spend the money to get DOT approval or that by their nature (multi-piece wheels) they don't meet DOT standards?
2) Are beadlocks difficult to balance because of the locking ring?
3) Are there any streetability issues running these at highway speeds?
4) TPMS work with these?
5) Has anyone been issued a citation running these tires? Can anyone in Pennsylvania chime in?

I'm sorry for so many questions on one thread. If there is anything I missed here please feel free to jump in here and ask!

EDIT) Duh - has anyone been issued a citation for running these WHEELS?
 
Since there has been a lot of beadlock threads of late, now seems like a good time to ask some questions.

1)What exactly is illegal about running beadlocks? I understand they are not DOT approved, but why are they not?
Is this simply because they do not wish to spend the money to get DOT approval or that by their nature (multi-piece wheels) they don't meet DOT standards?
2) Are beadlocks difficult to balance because of the locking ring?
3) Are there any streetability issues running these at highway speeds?
4) TPMS work with these?
5) Has anyone been issued a citation running these tires? Can anyone in Pennsylvania chime in?

I'm sorry for so many questions on one thread. If there is anything I missed here please feel free to jump in here and ask!

EDIT) Duh - has anyone been issued a citation for running these WHEELS?

The only dot approved beadlocks (that I know of) are the Hutchinson internal locking beadlocks.

For balancing my ATX chamber pros took little to no weight to balance with my nittos. Only reason I balanced them was because I couldn't go over 65 before I got a wicked balance wobble. Otherwise they rode smooth until that point.

Currently zero issues on the highway.

Myself and Hinrich live in PA and have had no issues with the law or with inspections. He runs ATX slabs and I run the chamber pros. Only time I ran into an issue was with a few shops for alignments.

Yes you can reinstall the tpms but really there is no point in doing so.
 
Another brand that is DOT approved is BAD wheels. "OFFLINE" has them on his. You can see them in his build thread.

ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1443730594.951714.jpg
 
Yes you can reinstall the tpms but really there is no point in doing so.[/QUOTE]

Does TPMS light stay on without the sensor?
 
Yes you can reinstall the tpms but really there is no point in doing so.

Does TPMS light stay on without the sensor?

Most tuners can turn the TMPS system off. I tried leaving it in, but I was not able to turn it down far enough to not be triggered so I ditched it.

The main reason most bead-locks are not DOT approved is because it is very expensive to get this certification. Since most that buy them don't care anyway it is a waist of money.
 
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I bought new tpms units for my atx from napa, I forget the frequency they operate at but am able to set set the pressure low enough when wheeling without any issues.
they are nice to have when not wheeling and get a warning if my tire pressure drops below my daily driver setting
 
I bought new tpms units for my atx from napa, I forget the frequency they operate at but am able to set set the pressure low enough when wheeling without any issues.
they are nice to have when not wheeling and get a warning if my tire pressure drops below my daily driver setting

I like this idea, and would like to know what TPMS sensors you installed in the wheels. I too like the added security of KNOWING a tire is low rather than finning out the hard way on the highway.

EDIT: I guess it's more important how you set the ECU to accept lower pressure, isn't that what your talking about? Was this with a flashcal?
 
Does TPMS light stay on without the sensor?

Most tuners can turn the TMPS system off. I tried leaving it in, but I was not able to turn it down far enough to not be triggered so I ditched it.

The main reason most bead-locks are not DOT approved is because it is very expensive to get this certification. Since most that buy them don't care anyway it is a waist of money.[/QUOTE]

Yeah, I adjusted mine down but it still was going off. Thought of ditching as well. Probably will do so when I decide on the wheels I want next spring.
Thanks for all the input once again!
 
I like this idea, and would like to know what TPMS sensors you installed in the wheels. I too like the added security of KNOWING a tire is low rather than finning out the hard way on the highway.

EDIT: I guess it's more important how you set the ECU to accept lower pressure, isn't that what your talking about? Was this with a flashcal?

I'll look for my tpms receipt and see if it has the info.

I used Superchips to adjust my tpms

Also check with your local Napa for 1st Saturday discount.

the Napa near me has 1st Saturday of the month they offer 30% if you buy before 9am and then 20% the rest of the day.
 
I reused the factory sensors, but that isnt where the issue is. The lowest "safety" setting is 22. When my tires were new I ran 25. This was too close. You can't set them lower.

The reality is you will know if a large tire is low, and if it blows.... Well, good luck.
 
I reused the factory sensors, but that isnt where the issue is. The lowest "safety" setting is 22. When my tires were new I ran 25. This was too close. You can't set them lower.

The reality is you will know if a large tire is low, and if it blows.... Well, good luck.

Yeah, running around at 25psi, with a 22psi alarm would be a little obnoxious... but 20 PSI alarm wouldn't be so bad... I wonder why they can't set it lower... :hmm:
 
Yeah, running around at 25psi, with a 22psi alarm would be a little obnoxious... but 20 PSI alarm wouldn't be so bad... I wonder why they can't set it lower... :hmm:

20ish PSI is considered flat on 99.9% of the tires on the road. The Wranglers are factory set to 37...

Also, I doubt a pressure transducer that is designed to read 37 is very acurate at almost half that pressure.
 
20ish PSI is considered flat on 99.9% of the tires on the road. The Wranglers are factory set to 37...

Also, I doubt a pressure transducer that is designed to read 37 is very acurate at almost half that pressure.

The tire pressure light in my jeep isn't on and I'm running about 32-34 psi in the factory tires... I have the read out, and when I air down to 12psi, the sensors read 12 psi... I would guess they would read at 20psi just as well. I'll test it out this weekend just out of curiosity and report back. :yep:
 
The tire pressure light in my jeep isn't on and I'm running about 32-34 psi in the factory tires... I have the read out, and when I air down to 12psi, the sensors read 12 psi... I would guess they would read at 20psi just as well. I'll test it out this weekend just out of curiosity and report back. :yep:

First off, I would like to appologize for the misinformation, I was running 35-36 psi (cold), and at 35/34 psi (warm), the TPMS system lights up with a warning.

I did bring a trusted tire pressure gauge and aired down to 15 via the trusted gauge, then got in the jeep to have a peak at what the sensors read. They were at 15 as well, then I took the jeep down to the usual 12 psi, and that still matched readings on both the gauge, and the readout in the dash. I didn't go any lower than 12 psi as I am not on beadlocks yet. But I hope this helps those who are wondering.
 
I've got ATX Slabs with 37" Nitto TG. They took a decent amount of weight to balance at Discount Tire. I've heard some people say they didn't need any weight, but I assume a variety of factors can affect this.

It takes me 10 minutes to check the torque settings on the ring bolts every oil change. Other than that, no maintenance on them.

I also drive 75mph on the freeway every day to work and have no issues or concerns with them.
 
I've got ATX Slabs with 37" Nitto TG. They took a decent amount of weight to balance at Discount Tire. I've heard some people say they didn't need any weight, but I assume a variety of factors can affect this.

It takes me 10 minutes to check the torque settings on the ring bolts every oil change. Other than that, no maintenance on them.

I also drive 75mph on the freeway every day to work and have no issues or concerns with them.

Great info, I appreciate it! Did you paint the rings with a rattle can or did you have someone do them professionally? They came out really well regardless...
 
Great info, I appreciate it! Did you paint the rings with a rattle can or did you have someone do them professionally? They came out really well regardless...

I actual just picked up some used slabs and and debating if I should rattle can or get done professionally as wel lol in gecko
 
I actual just picked up some used slabs and and debating if I should rattle can or get done professionally as wel lol in gecko

This seems like a no-brainer to me. Rocks and trail use will rash them to poo. Rattle can for the win for easy touch-ups.
 
This seems like a no-brainer to me. Rocks and trail use will rash them to poo. Rattle can for the win for easy touch-ups.

Yeah that was my thought, I just get nervous about painting something I want color matched. Think 2 or 3 coats of primer and mopar tough up paint is enough? Or should I try and find a aerosol paint can in my paint code
 
Yeah that was my thought, I just get nervous about painting something I want color matched. Think 2 or 3 coats of primer and mopar tough up paint is enough? Or should I try and find a aerosol paint can in my paint code

Andrew (noroad) has matched his gecko paint near perfect with a rattle can. I know it was a two stage but I don't believe he used Mopar color. I think he found the Mopar clear is needed for body touch up matching though. You might want to PM him for more info :yup:
 
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