Front Dana 44 Wanted

hhunter050 said:
I'm running 37s on a gusset on front d30. Works fine. Putting one tons under it so if it breaks I'm not too worried. I'd personally not put that money in a pr44. Overpriced if you ask me when you can build a junkyard 60 for the sane price if not cheaper but that's just my opinion
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Not everyone has the capabilities to build 1 tons. Welding and gearing arent exactly backyard mechanical skills. The welding can be taught and practiced without creating any catastrophies. Gearing on the other hand takes a lot of practice to get it right and if done wrong can in deed be catastrophic
 
thardy said:
I would think that something got bumped lose during the trail run. Have you gone back and checked all your steering parts and ensured that everything is torqued properly?
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Ya everything has been re-torqued since.
 
CrazyLarry said:
Not everyone has the capabilities to build 1 tons. Welding and gearing arent exactly backyard mechanical skills. The welding can be taught and practiced without creating any catastrophies. Gearing on the other hand takes a lot of practice to get it right and if done wrong can in deed be catastrophic
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I can do these things and I still plan to buy a PR44....

A junkyard 60 will not have as good a ground clearance and has a larger turning radius. Two things I don't want to give up. If you remove the internals and focus on the housings themselves... The PR44 is a fair price. After buying a JY housing, grinding/cutting brackets, fabricating or buying brackets, welding it all on, dealing with the wheel speed sensors and such. I doubt you are that far ahead (cost wise). Especially if you put any value in your time.
 
CrazyLarry said:
Not everyone has the capabilities to build 1 tons. Welding and gearing arent exactly backyard mechanical skills. The welding can be taught and practiced without creating any catastrophies. Gearing on the other hand takes a lot of practice to get it right and if done wrong can in deed be catastrophic
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This is true. But most of the welding and gears can be done by any offroad shop for a decent price. I got a front and rear out of an 06 f350 for $1k and if I'm not mistaken the going rate for a FRONT pr44 is around $5k. Yes I understand the fact that they want be ready due to the JK conversion that has to be done but I feel like alot of people waste money buying these Prorocks just because they are ready to bolt on as soon as you get them. (Order to actual delivery being around 3-4 months) which is plenty of time to build some junkyard axles. Just my thoughts. To some people it's worth the extra money to get the brand new stuff
 
hhunter050 said:
If you are just wanting to run 37s for the rest of the jeeps life get a 44. Rubi or Prorock
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...The Rubi 44 has D30 tubes, knuckes, and C's. Only the differential casting and internals are different. The C's are prone to bending, the tubes are prone to bending, and even the housing will bend (especially when the tubes are sleeved and/or trussed). If your spending money, why not get something better?
 
jnabird333 said:
...The Rubi 44 has D30 tubes, knuckes, and C's. Only the differential casting and internals are different. The C's are prone to bending, the tubes are prone to bending, and even the housing will bend (especially when the tubes are sleeved and/or trussed). If your spending money, why not get something better?
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By all means if you have the money get a Prorock. And I'm not saying all of things you have stated are wrong but I've seen stock rubi 44s with 40s on them have 0 problems and personally I haven't ever seen one bend but if I'm not mistaken Gussets and even a truss could fix those problems. Throw some Chromolys in it and call it a day. Also are you trying to say the housing is more prone to bend with sleeves and trusses? I'm pretty sure they don't make it easier to bend the housing...
 
hhunter050 said:
Also are you trying to say the housing is more prone to bend with sleeves and trusses? I'm pretty sure they don't make it easier to bend the housing...
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That is exactly what I'm saying. Mostly in the case of sleeves but also on a truss (depending on the design).

Many think of the axle tubes and housings as a rigid object but it isn't. It bends and flexes all the time. Most of the time these bends are not beyond the plastic limit of the metal and it returns to shape. When sleeves are added the tubes no longer absorb as much of this energy and force more deflection in the housing.

In the case of a truss, the stock tubes and housings are so thin that it is very difficult to install one without bending the axle from heat distortion. I have seen a ton of JK axles that have a camber problem from a bent axle and it happened when installing the very thing to prevent it.

My grandfather used to say, you can polish and polish on a turd, but in the end all you have is a shinny turd.
 
jnabird333 said:
That is exactly what I'm saying. Mostly in the case of sleeves but also on a truss (depending on the design).

Many think of the axle tubes and housings as a rigid object but it isn't. It bends and flexes all the time. Most of the time these bends are not beyond the plastic limit of the metal and it returns to shape. When sleeves are added the tubes no longer absorb as much of this energy and force more deflection in the housing.

In the case of a truss, the stock tubes and housings are so thin that it is very difficult to install one without bending the axle from heat distortion. I have seen a ton of JK axles that have a camber problem from a bent axle and it happened when installing the very thing to prevent it.
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I agree with both statements completely. 👍
 
Mkp08 said:
I'm sure the front axle starts bouncing and you do need a new pair of shorts after trust me. I'm just at a loss all the shops in Utah keep saying its alignment or stabilizer shock but both are just fixes to mask what is really wrong.
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What shops in Utah are you taking it to?
 
jnabird333 said:
In the case of a truss, the stock tubes and housings are so thin that it is very difficult to install one without bending the axle from heat distortion. I have seen a ton of JK axles that have a camber problem from a bent axle and it happened when installing the very thing to prevent it.
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Can you quantify a "ton"?
 
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