Creaking clutch on 2012 Jeep Wrangler

The verdict? Throw out bearing. I know this isn't normal, as I have owned manual vehicles forever and never had to replace one. Is it due to shoddy parts, or maybe something I'm doing while I'm wheeling? Making me nervous now and wondering if I should maybe look into the automatic transmission. I see a lot of posts all over the forums about Wrangler clutch, TOB issues and premature clutch wear.
 
Mine has 6600 miles and is in for the throw out bearing and clutch master. Warrantee covered. They did not change the actual clutch.
 
rich67 said:
The verdict? Throw out bearing. I know this isn't normal, as I have owned manual vehicles forever and never had to replace one. Is it due to shoddy parts, or maybe something I'm doing while I'm wheeling? Making me nervous now and wondering if I should maybe look into the automatic transmission. I see a lot of posts all over the forums about Wrangler clutch, TOB issues and premature clutch wear.
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My TOB has been replaced twice already under warranty.
 
Got it back the other day, and what a difference. The clutch pedal is smooth as butter, engages mid way (it was engaging almost at the top before), and when foot is off the clutch I get no knocking (others describe it like a dieseling sound) coming from the gearbox. Hopefully the problem won't rear its ugly head again, it's like I have a new Jeep.
 
Sorry to bring up an old thread... but it sounds like i'm having this exact issue.

35,800 miles on my 2012 JK and it started with just a clicking noise over the weekend and developed into a creaking/squealing noise. I bought the extended warranty (hoping its the max coverage as I can't remember at this point) and i'm hoping it's covered when I take it in tomorrow. I just want to make sure its the slave cylinder making the noise because if it's not covered under warranty, then I'll be doing this in my driveway. The throw out bearing seems a little tougher to switch out.

I've hardly gotten the opportunity to wheel it as i've slowly been upgrading and am just now almost to the point where i'm comfortable with how it will do offroad. With that said, if it is indeed the throwout bearing, should I just replace the whole clutch at the same time?
 
bdubnit said:
Sorry to bring up an old thread... but it sounds like i'm having this exact issue.

35,800 miles on my 2012 JK and it started with just a clicking noise over the weekend and developed into a creaking/squealing noise. I bought the extended warranty (hoping its the max coverage as I can't remember at this point) and i'm hoping it's covered when I take it in tomorrow. I just want to make sure its the slave cylinder making the noise because if it's not covered under warranty, then I'll be doing this in my driveway. The throw out bearing seems a little tougher to switch out.

I've hardly gotten the opportunity to wheel it as i've slowly been upgrading and am just now almost to the point where i'm comfortable with how it will do offroad. With that said, if it is indeed the throwout bearing, should I just replace the whole clutch at the same time?
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Depending on how you drive, you may want to replace the clutch too. Me, I kept my clutch and was still able to get over 100,000 miles out of it. In fact, I only stopped using my clutch because I did a motor swap and got a new transmission.
 
wayoflife said:
Depending on how you drive, you may want to replace the clutch too. Me, I kept my clutch and was still able to get over 100,000 miles out of it. In fact, I only stopped using my clutch because I did a motor swap and got a new transmission.
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Maybe I will get lucky and the dealership will replace the whole thing like the other guy in this thread... I won't hold my breath though.
 
Eddie, maybe you know..would the 5/50 powertrain warranty cover something like the TOB?
 
Creaking Clutch

wayoflife said:
Yup, a rickety spring compressing noise when you depress the clutch. I've gone through 3 of them on my white JK in 100,000 miles and had to replace one almost as soon as I installed it. Not saying that you're is bad yet but, the creaking is an indication that it's starting to go bad.
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Man, just replaced my slave, creak still there. Gonna try greasing the fork... Will keep you all posted on my progress.
 
wayoflife said:
Yup, a rickety spring compressing noise when you depress the clutch. I've gone through 3 of them on my white JK in 100,000 miles and had to replace one almost as soon as I installed it. Not saying that you're is bad yet but, the creaking is an indication that it's starting to go bad.
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I know this is old, but besides the creaking noise being an indication of the clutch slave going bad, what else would one experience as it goes bad? Like harder to shift into gear or out of gear or not very smooth shifts?
 
Jeeplife101 said:
I know this is old, but besides the creaking noise being an indication of the clutch slave going bad, what else would one experience as it goes bad? Like harder to shift into gear or out of gear or not very smooth shifts?
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Well, eventually, the seal inside will fail and you will loose all the brake fluid in it and your clutch won't work at all. So long as there's fluid, it should work the same. If you're not hearing the creaking, it's most likely fine and your clutch may just be going out.
 
wayoflife said:
Well, eventually, the seal inside will fail and you will loose all the brake fluid in it and your clutch won't work at all. So long as there's fluid, it should work the same. If you're not hearing the creaking, it's most likely fine and your clutch may just be going out.
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so would it affect the brakes? Example brake lines are not leaking but are getting softer on the braking?
 
noroad said:
so would it affect the brakes? Example brake lines are not leaking but are getting softer on the braking?
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No, it shouldn't. If you look at your MC, there's a small reservoir toward the back corner on the driver side. When you fill the MC up, the fluid will over flow and fill the reservoir as well - this is the reservoir for your slave. You can run low on brake fluid and still have fluid in the slave reservoir. If you're brakes are soft even after a bleeding, it's most likely because you have installed longer brake lines and haven't gotten the system ABS bled. On 2012-up, this is needed to get the system functioning well.
 
wayoflife said:
No, it shouldn't. If you look at your MC, there's a small reservoir toward the back corner on the driver side. When you fill the MC up, the fluid will over flow and fill the reservoir as well - this is the reservoir for your slave. You can run low on brake fluid and still have fluid in the slave reservoir. If you're brakes are soft even after a bleeding, it's most likely because you have installed longer brake lines and haven't gotten the system ABS bled. On 2012-up, this is needed to get the system functioning well.
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Thank you.
 
wayoflife said:
No, it shouldn't. If you look at your MC, there's a small reservoir toward the back corner on the driver side. When you fill the MC up, the fluid will over flow and fill the reservoir as well - this is the reservoir for your slave. You can run low on brake fluid and still have fluid in the slave reservoir. If you're brakes are soft even after a bleeding, it's most likely because you have installed longer brake lines and haven't gotten the system ABS bled. On 2012-up, this is needed to get the system functioning well.
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ok thanks so at least that isn't a sign of my clutch going out, I guess ill re bleed the brakes but out of no where they have gotten soft.
 
noroad said:
ok thanks so at least that isn't a sign of my clutch going out, I guess ill re bleed the brakes but out of no where they have gotten soft.
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Could be you are getting air in the system. I would check to make sure there aren't any leaks coming from the banjo bolts or the connections to the hard lines. If they are tight at a full droop (and if I recall, your rear ones are), this can cause the connections to come loose and let air in.
 
wayoflife said:
Could be you are getting air in the system. I would check to make sure there aren't any leaks coming from the banjo bolts or the connections to the hard lines. If they are tight at a full droop (and if I recall, your rear ones are), this can cause the connections to come loose and let air in.
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I will do that, I was also thinking of changing the rear lines out to new ones. what length/ type would you recommend for the bolt on's?
 
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