Debate over?
Huh? Not sure I follow. If you've looked around this topic is never ending and everyone has their own opinions.
Debate over?
I installed the EVO Lever and it is really straight forward. If you have someone like you said that can weld it shouldn't be too bad.
Huh? Not sure I follow. If you've looked around this topic is never ending and everyone has their own opinions.
So did you do the entire dtd or just the rear lever?
Funny how the title says "BEST," yet we are contemplating so many things. Is it BEST for my budget. BEST for my wheeling style. BEST based on R&D?
For a JK the BEST is clearly DTD with a PR60/80 set up. That's what will be recommended and suggested because it has been proven over and over. Seen any JKX vids lately???
Seems like your mind is set on wanting to try out some new things and to go with the curries. If you want to run these, go for it. And then share with us your thoughts and frustrations later.
He did just the lever in the rear. Pretty straight forward install
I should have clarified, I mean a bumpstop on the front, doesn't even need to be the king air bumps, just any bumpstop. The DTD coilover towers appear to leave little room for a bump stop to be added.
How hard is the dtd in the front?
I don't follow what debate you're talking about.
Are we talking about the c gussets?
Running the factory 44 on 37s?
Or saving up his money and only buying 1 aftermarket axle instead of a pr44 and then a pr60?
So did you do the entire dtd or just the rear lever?
The axle debate. Everyone has an opinion on "what's best" or "what to run". That's all.
I did the rear lever. My wife is still running the bolt-on coilovers in front.
I understand if money were no option and you could afford to pay $125-150per hour the dtd with 60/80 dynatracs would be the way to go. However not many have $35k to drop on suspension and axles alone. Just trying to hit a happy medium thats all.
There shouldn't be a debate about it. Dynatrac axles are best money can buy. No questions asked.
lol i honestly wasn't calling him a Liar at all. Its just he said something different than the manufacturer. Im sure both are right, maybe you can just run the coil overs without the bypass shocks and tune the coil overs accordingly?? To answer your question on why i dont run with the stock axles. I came from the utv polaris rzr crowd. I always found myself going on the harder more difficult trails and didn't necessarily have to worry about breaking because if i did i knew i could usually limp my way back to the trailer and haul it home. With the jeep since its my only way of transportation i cant risk a breakdown and getting stranded because i went on something my jeep wasn't ready for. Just thought since my axles are new and i can realize some money for them that i would do 60's right off the bat for a little extra insurance. Maybe im over analyzing all of this lol
With the lever system do you use the factory mounts on the axle?
Right. So the title of the thread should be the "Best coil over lift and axle choice, on my budget of $X?"
your right. I have a budget of about 25k for suspension and axles. Its tight i know but thats all i have. I think i can get around 4k for my whees/tires and front and rear axles then i can use that for drive shafts and maybe ram assist.
It depends on which mount you're referring too. You must use their trackbar/bumpstop/heim bracket and install lower heim mount on the passenger side. I have the high clearance long arms made by EVO so everything fit perfect. The subframe bolted up 100% perfect for welding purposes.
You can make it if you go with a pr44 and a trail 60 in the rear with Evo bolt on coilovers and 37's. You will have one hell of a capable rig with that set up.[/QUOTE
Can you run 40's on the evo coil overs later if i want with out cranking the hell out of the shocks to give you the height to clear them?
For example the genright kit requires you to weld on new brackets on the front and rear axle for the 3link up front and 4 link in the back. Does the lever system and dtd in the front require you to cut off the factory brackets and weld on all new ones to make it work?