New lift and 35s. What do i need?

[bigtrucker52]

Hey fellow jeepers. I'm going to be buying a 3" lift kit soon with 35s. I'm going to be installing it at a buddy of mine's shop. Is there anything else i need? I know i need to correct the speedo so what should i get for that?


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[jkuone]

Hey fellow jeepers. I'm going to be buying a 3" lift kit soon with 35s. I'm going to be installing it at a buddy of mine's shop. Is there anything else i need? I know i need to correct the speedo so what should i get for that?


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For speedo you can use a AEV Procal, or superchips flashcal, flashpaq, there's a few more options to
That slip my mind...

 

[cozdude]

You will deff want C gussets welded on. Also you may need a new front driveshaft sometime in the near future.

 

[bigtrucker52]

I'm buying the lift, tires, and a spare tire relocation bracket to clear the tire on the rear tire carrier. I'm leaving everything else alone except suspension and what i have to do to correct the speedo and driveline for the lift


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[bigtrucker52]

And i have a stock 2door if that helps anyone


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[OverlanderJK]

What lift did you get? Are you sure it has everything you need? As mentioned you will want axle c gussets to prevent your axle from bending at the knuckle.

You will also need front and rear driveshafts on a two door.

 

[bigtrucker52]

What lift did you get? Are you sure it has everything you need? As mentioned you will want axle c gussets to prevent your axle from bending at the knuckle.

You will also need front and rear driveshafts on a two door.

The lift is a 3.0" trailmaster lift. It's got 3" coils and shock extension brackets for my stock shocks. What size shafts should i go with?


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[rubbersidedownJK]

three in enforcer lift with 315s. 35s
so far for driveline i havent had to much issue with anything if staying on pavement. first time on a trail i tore the front driveshaft boot. with the 3.6l you'll need a exhaust spacer or a new shaft with the U joint. coast 1310 is what i got for it. have the bracket for the rear tire. still think i will need a carrier and get that weight off the tailgate of it. and if your kit does not come with it, would be good to get adjustable rear control arms to push that axel back to where it should be. speaking with northridge they recommended me the terraflex. i like them, they are beefy and look good

 

[wayoflife]

The lift is a 3.0" trailmaster lift. It's got 3" coils and shock extension brackets for my stock shocks. What size shafts should i go with?

That's a lot of lift to just be running shock extensions but with them, you should be okay with your factory front drive shaft. If you decide to run new longer shocks, a front will only be needed if you have a 2007-11 with an automatic transmission or a 2012-up regardless of transmission. A new rear shaft is recommended regardless because you have a 2-door. You will need adjustable rear upper control arms to set your pinion angle too. Having said that, you can run your factory shaft for a while and I would deal with it when you need it.

 

[bigtrucker52]

That's a lot of lift to just be running shock extensions but with them, you should be okay with your factory front drive shaft. If you decide to run new longer shocks, a front will only be needed if you have a 2007-11 with an automatic transmission or a 2012-up regardless of transmission. A new rear shaft is recommended regardless because you have a 2-door. You will need adjustable rear upper control arms to set your pinion angle too. Having said that, you can run your factory shaft for a while and I would deal with it when you need it.

Well i currently have no more than 25% tread on my front tires and 50% on my rear tires. I currently have a summer job and i'm gonna have to split the cost of this with my dad. With that in mind i'm trying to keep the price of everything near 2 grand max. And right now i'm between 1200 and 1500


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[wayoflife]

Well i currently have no more than 25% tread on my front tires and 50% on my rear tires. I currently have a summer job and i'm gonna have to split the cost of this with my dad. With that in mind i'm trying to keep the price of everything near 2 grand max. And right now i'm between 1200 and 1500


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That being said, I personally would recommend a basic 2.5" coil spacer budget boost with rear brake line extensions and longer rear sway bar links, run shock extensions, add c-gussets and run 1.5" wheel spacers. No need for new drive shafts with this setup and you can do it for cheap.

 

[bigtrucker52]

That being said, I personally would recommend a basic 2.5" coil spacer budget boost with rear brake line extensions and longer rear sway bar links, run shock extensions, add c-gussets and run 1.5" wheel spacers. No need for new drive shafts with this setup and you can do it for cheap.

Well i'm gonna be doing it over at my frends shop on his property and he's gonna teach me how to do everything and help me when i need it so i won't be paying anyone for labor. He's been working on cars as a hobby for years and services and repairs all of his cars including his hummer h1 himself


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[wayoflife]

Well i'm gonna be doing it over at my frends shop on his property and he's gonna teach me how to do everything and help me when i need it so i won't be paying anyone for labor. He's been working on cars as a hobby for years and services and repairs all of his cars including his hummer h1 himself

Honestly, I had assumed you'd be doing the work yourself and wasn't taking labor into account. The money you save by going the route I pointed out is substantial because you don't need things like drive shafts or track bars. 2.5" and 35's is a solid setup and one I have run in the past but if you want more lift just because, just know it'll cost you more to do right.

 

[bigtrucker52]

Honestly, I had assumed you'd be doing the work yourself and wasn't taking labor into account. The money you save by going the route I pointed out is substantial because you don't need things like drive shafts or track bars. 2.5" and 35's is a solid setup and one I have run in the past but if you want more lift just because, just know it'll cost you more to do right.

That is a great point


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[bigtrucker52]

Since lifts void the warranty on any vehicle my parents don't want me to get a lift. I'm thinking about getting 33s with the stock rim. I've heard i can clear them easy with out a lift. I'm thinking that i'm gonna need spacers to stop the rubbing issues. Would i be making the correct assumption or no?


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[olram30]

Since lifts void the warranty on any vehicle my parents don't want me to get a lift. I'm thinking about getting 33s with the stock rim. I've heard i can clear them easy with out a lift. I'm thinking that i'm gonna need spacers to stop the rubbing issues. Would i be making the correct assumption or no?


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Who's telling you a lift voids your warranty?

 

[spinuck]

While it may not void the warranty entirely, it can make for a big pain in the ass to have stuff covered under warranty.

 

[olram30]

While it may not void the warranty entirely, it can make for a big pain in the ass to have stuff covered under warranty.

Depends on the dealer. I was just curious if the dealer told him this or of he read it on the internet.

 

[cozdude]

Depends on the dealer. I was just curious if the dealer told him this or of he read it on the internet.

Yep totally depends on the dealer. My dealer said I can go all the way up to 3" before they would void my warranty. I still have yet to be denied warranty work from them :thumb:

 

[bigtrucker52]

Who's telling you a lift voids your warranty?

Well a guy i know that goes to my church he's been restoring cars and trucks as a hobby for like 15-20+ years said that when you lift any vehicle that it voids the warranty. I was planning on running up to the local dealership soon to ask them about it


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