New Genright JKU cage vs EVO full cage?

travisk

travisk

New member
Hey guys, I'm helping my friend research a full weld-in roll cage for his JKU. We've narrowed it down to the full EVO weld-in cage that requires install at Off Road Evolution for about $5,000 total vs. Genright's new installable cage, which they are preselling now unassembled for $2,500.

The new Genright cage is laser cut and puzzled. It's made from 2" .120 wall DOM, requires removal of the interior and minor dash trimming to install, works with all factory roofs and doors. A local qualified builder quoted him $1,000 to weld it all in.

GRC8001_CADtub_xl.jpg


GRC8001_CAD3qtr_xl.jpg


I don't have all the specs on EVO's cage in front of me, but based on EVO's reputation I'm sure that it is a fantastic product. But it's also more expensive.

Any thoughts?
 
I haven't seen either in person so I have no practical advice to give. I do like the look of those pics, but I'm curious how much of the view the front bars block. I also like the built in safety harness bars. Any idea how the cage ties into the floor (i.e. bolted/welded/plated from underneath)?

Edit:
1) How far does the harness bar support protrude into the rear passenger area?
2) Does it prevent the front seats from coming all the way back (I know they can't recline)?

Looking forward to seeing more of this cage. :thumb:
 
Last edited:
This is a pretty interesting topic to me. A few here questioned why I didnt decide to go with a full weld in EVO cage for my build. One reason was the cost, the other was how intrusive the setup was for creature comforts like the sound bar. Granted you could circumvent this "minor" issue if you dont care about having a sound system, or if you want to build something completely custom. One degrades the practicality of a street driven rig, the other comes with substantively higher costs. Does the Genright Cage allow you to keep the stock sound bar? I would also have converns about the front bars blocking the view and legality in certain states. I believe most states have laws about objects blocking views. This wouldnt be a simple "fix it" ticket if it was mandated to be removed. Obviously these cages are far superior to a sport cage, but is it overkill if you arent running King of the Hammers or the Baja 1000?
 
Coming from a road racing background (built and raced sports cars professionally for 8 years and raced in other venues for another 10), the Genright cage looks to be a bolt in design based on the pictures posted. While that's not terrible, it's also not ideal. And even if you are ok with a bolt-in design, have your welder weld it in (don't just bolt it in) and sufficiently beef up the structure where it's bolted. Ideally, I'd want to see something tied into the frame somehow (ideal would be welded to the frame, less ideal would be frame mounts under the body structure with the body sandwiched between the frame mounts and the balance of the cage). I've seen cages punch through floorboards before and the results aren't pretty (seat bolted to body, frame bolted to body, frame punches through body, seat doesn't, you can likely see where this is going). The front of the cage also looks to tie into the dash area much like a sportcage and that's also far from ideal (fine for a sport cage but if you're going full weld-in, I'd assume you wouldn't want to cut corners). Personally, from an engineering standpoint, i'd want to see an X-Brace on the front harness bar or at the very least a since diagonal brace.

Know zilch about the EVO cage so cannot comment on it good or bad.

Realistically, any local fab/racing shop "should" be able to design, fabricate, and install a fully custom cage for you. If you're local to EVO, I'd go that route personally if I wasn't doing the install myself (which it doesn't sound like you are). If you aren't local to them, I'd wager there are shops local to you that could do it for a somewhere between the full cost of the GenRight cage and the EVO cage and you'd save on transporting your JK to EVO's location. Just something to think about.
 
SmokinV10 said:
This is a pretty interesting topic to me. A few here questioned why I didnt decide to go with a full weld in EVO cage for my build. One reason was the cost, the other was how intrusive the setup was for creature comforts like the sound bar. Granted you could circumvent this "minor" issue if you dont care about having a sound system, or if you want to build something completely custom. One degrades the practicality of a street driven rig, the other comes with substantively higher costs. Does the Genright Cage allow you to keep the stock sound bar? I would also have converns about the front bars blocking the view and legality in certain states. I believe most states have laws about objects blocking views. This wouldnt be a simple "fix it" ticket if it was mandated to be removed. Obviously these cages are far superior to a sport cage, but is it overkill if you arent running King of the Hammers or the Baja 1000?
Click to expand...

A truly "custom" cage should allow you to retain whatever level of streetability you want in your JK, it should also allow you to retain your soundbar if that's your desire. If it doesn't, it isn't actually a "custom" cage.
 
SmokinV10 said:
This LOOKS to be the Genright Cage (at least some of it) that was used in the "Blue Crush" Mopar Concept Vehicle

http://project-jk.com/wpg2?g2_itemId=265370 The concept vehcile seems to have a lot of the Genright parts.
Click to expand...


Not sure about the MOPAR cage, but the Genright cage is the one they put in their Terremoto build with some variation for the custom dash and integration with their rear through-the-tub coilovers. Pic Below.

I ordered the cage this morning and I guess I'm one of the first guinea pigs for it. I'll report back how much it sucks in a rollover if I survive the mounts punching through the floor. Apparently, they worked with Chrysler on this cage design and specifically kept frame tie-ins out of the equation from some things they found in R&D. The Pillar mounts coincide with the tub body mounts on the frame. At least that's the marketing BS I was told. We'll see how it comes out. :fingerscrossed:

genrightcagedev.jpg
 
OP, you don't mention the Synergy weld in cage. Have you already looked at it and decided against it?
 
LoPo said:
I'll report back how much it sucks in a rollover if I survive the mounts punching through the floor. Apparently, they worked with Chrysler on this cage design and specifically kept frame tie-ins out of the equation from some things they found in R&D. The Pillar mounts coincide with the tub body mounts on the frame. At least that's the marketing BS I was told. We'll see how it comes out. :fingerscrossed: <img src="http://wayalife.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86162"/>
Click to expand...
I would like to hear more on the research and decisions on why they didn't use frame tie ins? Any more info on that?
 
Tcdawg said:
OP, you don't mention the Synergy weld in cage. Have you already looked at it and decided against it?
Click to expand...

The Synergy cage is probably made well, but I saw zero triangulation in the design and it's only 1.75" DOM. A big fat JKU needs 2" tubes.
 
Tcdawg said:
I would like to hear more on the research and decisions on why they didn't use frame tie ins? Any more info on that?
Click to expand...

Here is what they stated on another forum/product announcement:

"We tie into the body right above each body mount, so it leaves the rubber mounted body mount for comfort and quietness, but almost as good as a direct mounted urethane mount.

We found the direct or rigid mounting of the cage to the frame, causes cracks in the body and other things after about 3 years."


One thing that was pointed out to me when I was talking to them last week when I specifically asked why no frame tie-in.. was what they call "soft frame", I don't know if that's official term or not, but the problem occurs ahead of say the A Pillar if it were the last point tied to the frame, that the frame gets 'soft' and flexes more than it should because the rest of the frame back is rigid due to the cage. I suspect this wouldn't be an issue if the cage extended through the engine bay and cross braced the frame in various spots. The amount you wheel will also factor in to how soon you'd see the "soft frame" that they speak of. Apparently this happened to one of their test mules. Also they said Chrysler designed the tub to be 'dynamic' in the sense that when your Jeep flexes, that stress occurs at the body mounts. When you introduce the frame tie-in this prevents that flex and stresses at the point where you've tied into the frame, this is also on point about the "soft frame" along with potential tearing or damage to the tub.
 
Tcdawg said:
I would like to hear more on the research and decisions on why they didn't use frame tie ins? Any more info on that?
Click to expand...

Production cages that tie into the frame use bushings to keep vibration out of the body. I could see them trying to avoid a cage that's attached with to the vehicle with rubber. It's just not as strong.
 
$2,500.00 bucks for the genright? how much is the evo? anybody know? i'dbe happy with a rock hard:blush:
 
SmokinV10 said:
This LOOKS to be the Genright Cage (at least some of it) that was used in the "Blue Crush" Mopar Concept Vehicle

http://project-jk.com/wpg2?g2_itemId=265370 The concept vehcile seems to have a lot of the Genright parts.
Click to expand...

The cage that was in Blue Crush was build specifically for it by hand, it goes into the engine bay and ties into frame directly everywhere. It also is the mounting point for the coilovers/bypasses front and rear as well as radiators, trans coolers, seats, harnesses, fuel cell, etc. it is a custom one off race cage.

I saw the Genright cage on Tony's ride (Teremoto) in Moab. The rear ties into the same point on body as factory cage, the b pilar ties in right above the center body mount, and the "c pillar" mounts very similar to the poison spyder c pilar kit. I couldn't see how the a pillar ties in as it was covered by his custom dash. It looks nice in his ride and well built. I'd say it's in between a full race style cage (EVO1/Blue Crush type cage) and bolt in sport cage. All depends how crazy you want to go. I've never seen OREs cage but knowing their work I'm sure it is great.
 
travisk said:
Production cages that tie into the frame use bushings to keep vibration out of the body. I could see them trying to avoid a cage that's attached with to the vehicle with rubber. It's just not as strong.
Click to expand...

I think I would still rather be tied to the frame than the tub.
 
Do all the sport cages everyone loves and buys tie into the frame in multiple spots? or just bolt onto existing cage and body?

Do most of you guys base your decision on a 60-70mph multiple roll crash or just a flop on your side on the trail?
 
just-lift-it said:
Do all the sport cages everyone loves and buys tie into the frame in multiple spots? or just bolt onto existing cage and body?

Do most of you guys base your decision on a 60-70mph multiple roll crash or just a flop on your side on the trail?
Click to expand...

I don't have a cage but I will guess that most people just base it on just a flop. I know if I get one it will be just for added protection/strength for a flop.


Sent from my iPhone
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom