Quick answer needed!!

Diver_matt

New member
I have a RK 2.5 X factor that will push the rear axle back one inch. Anyone know a ballpark (within an inch) of driveshaft length? I can get a fair deal on one that was made for a metal cloak 3.5" lift (no axle push though). Curious if it would fit properly.
 
I have a RK 2.5 X factor that will push the rear axle back one inch. Anyone know a ballpark (within an inch) of driveshaft length? I can get a fair deal on one that was made for a metal cloak 3.5" lift (no axle push though). Curious if it would fit properly.

First off, IF you really push your axle back 1", you coils will bow quite a bit and they'll most likely rub your rear track bar. As far as your drive shaft goes, a good shaft like a Coast or JE Reel will have enough slip to accommodate your needs.
 
I'm asking because I can get a deal on a woods rear. If it'll fit, I'll buy. On vacation and can't measure right now
 
I'm asking because I can get a deal on a woods rear. If it'll fit, I'll buy. On vacation and can't measure right now

Can't say for sure on a Woods shaft but, IF you decide to get it, make sure you upgrade the u-joints to a set of Spicers or Neapco. The "gold seal" u-joints he uses standard are cheap Chinese joints that I have seen fail time and time again.
 
He is correct in the RK lift will push your dif back one inch. i have the 3.5" lift and it did the same. However, I have had zero clearance issues with coils or the track bar.
 
He is correct in the RK lift will push your dif back one inch. i have the 3.5" lift and it did the same. However, I have had zero clearance issues with coils or the track bar.

You have a 4-door and I believe he has a 2-door. I have seen this to be a problem on 2-doors and not something I would recommend unless you install a set of JKS adjustable lower spring perches.
 
You have a 4-door and I believe he has a 2-door. I have seen this to be a problem on 2-doors and not something I would recommend unless you install a set of JKS adjustable lower spring perches.
A 2 door. I always miss the details. Thanks for clearing that up.
 
Can't say for sure on a Woods shaft but, IF you decide to get it, make sure you upgrade the u-joints to a set of Spicers or Neapco. The "gold seal" u-joints he uses standard are cheap Chinese joints that I have seen fail time and time again.

I gotta start talking to you before I buy, Eddie. :banghead:
I spoke to Tom before I got mine and he was able to build them sight unseen if you explain what you have going on.

We are Jeep..Resistance is futile..
 
He said he has a 4 door ^

In fact he eventually did, didn't he. Well, it's not what I saw in his original post and there is no mention of it in his profile - just states he has a JK. :idontknow:

I gotta start talking to you before I buy, Eddie. :banghead:
I spoke to Tom before I got mine and he was able to build them sight unseen if you explain what you have going on.

We are Jeep..Resistance is futile..

FWIW, all drive shafts are pretty much made the same way - there's no rocket science to it. The only real difference from one shaft to another is in how well it's balanced and in the components used.
 
I know there's some room for error in the slip of the driveshaft. My logical side says a 3.5" lift vs my 2.5" with the axle pushed back should be fine. But logic doesn't always work with jeeps.

Good tip on the u-joints. Thanks. As for clearance, I have RK correction wedges and getting an RK rear track bar.

So any opinions on my logic? Sound or nuts?
 
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