Alignment specs for 5" long arm kit?

[bmkrinne]

Those flats on the axle housing are perpendicular to the pinion axis and 6 deg separation to the caster on the stock housing. At 92.2 deg on your digital angle finder, the pinion angle will be 2.2 deg up and the caster will be -3.8 deg. If you want more caster decrease the angle towards 90 degrees, which at 90 deg you would have -6 deg caster. Need to measure the slope of your garage or driveway since it will affect the angle readings, and adjust accordingly.

Basically take both your upper control arms loose from the axle. Then adjust length on one CA to set caster and pinion angle to 91.5 - 92 deg, then adjust the other upper control arm until you can push the bolt through it.

 

[DaBank]

Those flats on the axle housing are perpendicular to the pinion axis and 6 deg separation to the caster on the stock housing. At 92.2 deg on your digital angle finder, the pinion angle will be 2.2 deg up and the caster will be -3.8 deg. If you want more caster decrease the angle towards 90 degrees, which at 90 deg you would have -6 deg caster. Need to measure the slope of your garage or driveway since it will affect the angle readings, and adjust accordingly.

Basically take both your upper control arms loose from the axle. Then adjust length on one CA to set caster and pinion angle to 91.5 - 92 deg, then adjust the other upper control arm until you can push the bolt through it.

So I am at 3.8° based on my level readings on the axle and my floor. The Alignment print out shows 3.3° so my reading is .5 more positive. So if adjust my arm's and get my reading to 91.5° at the axle I should be 4.5 caster. So based on the alignment printout and my measurements the caster should be in the 4° to 4.5° range and that would put me right where it should be?
Once I adjust the front caster and square up the rear axle I will take it back to have the alignment check and see how close I got everything.
Frank

 

[bmkrinne]

You are over complicating this whole process. Just my 2 cents here but throw the alignment paperwork in the trash. Set your caster using the digital level to 4.5 degrees (91.5 on your level) and then go drive it. You’ve got 4.10 gears so you can probably get away with a little more caster before you start feeling driveline vibes.

These jeeps aren’t race cars and alignment is simple on them. If the jeep is tracking straight and hands off on level roads, then call it good. I wouldn’t take it back to have it checked unless you’re one of those guys that has to pay someone to tell you what you’ve done is right.

 

[Cousin Clyde]

Dude everything in this thread has been said 3 times minimum. OP keeps asking the same questions with numerical values that are 0.2 different every time he asks.

Pretty sure OP is generating these questions with chatGPT.

 

[DaBank]

You are over complicating this whole process. Just my 2 cents here but throw the alignment paperwork in the trash. Set your caster using the digital level to 4.5 degrees (91.5 on your level) and then go drive it. You’ve got 4.10 gears so you can probably get away with a little more caster before you start feeling driveline vibes.

These jeeps aren’t race cars and alignment is simple on them. If the jeep is tracking straight and hands off on level roads, then call it good. I wouldn’t take it back to have it checked unless you’re one of those guys that has to pay someone to tell you what you’ve done is right.

I have 4.88 gears and I am only taking it back because they said they would check it ONCE for free after I make adjustments since they (The Jeep Dealer) are not allow to mess with the contorl arms.

 

[DaBank]

Dude everything in this thread has been said 3 times minimum. OP keeps asking the same questions with numerical values that are 0.2 different every time he asks.

Pretty sure OP is generating these questions with chatGPT.

I don't know what Chat gpt is but yes I know I am asking about numbers that are close.
Just want to make sure I do it right. I been setting my toe and steering wheel myself on my last 7 Jeeps and have never paid myself for an alignment on them. This Jeep has had the alignment done twice under warranty, once when they installed balljoints and they discovered the bent axle and then again when they warrantied and installed the new axle.
Before I took it in for them to install the axle I installed new heim joints and measured my control arms to be even. Now my Caster is lower than it was (was low to start with) and my rear axle is not straight (was not straight to start with but is worst now). All happened because of my adjustments.
I am trying to do this myself so I don't have to pay someone to do it, since everyone keeps saying it's a Jeep don't waste your money and do it yourself.
Thanks again for the input on how to do it correctly.
Frank

 

[jeeeep]

youtube search for measuring thrust angle and rear axle square

it's a good explanation for the rear axle

 

[DaBank]

I adjusted the front upper control arms 2 turns shorter and that put my angle finder at 91.6° and 91.5°.
Since I adjusted the caster do I need to make any other adjustments?
Frank

 

[DaBank]

The Jeep dealer installed a brand new complete front axle and adjusted all the control arm's and did alignment and the Jeep pulls to the right pretty bad. The axle came with new ball joints, the adjustable track bar has 2k miles on it and the aluminum flipped drag link and aluminum tie rod has 200 miles on them and so do the brand new tires. I swapped all the tires around twice , once side to side and then front to back and the pull was the same.
What could be causing the pull?

 

[Disciple Off Road]

The Jeep dealer installed a brand new complete front axle and adjusted all the control arm's and did alignment and the Jeep pulls to the right pretty bad. The axle came with new ball joints, the adjustable track bar has 2k miles on it and the aluminum flipped drag link and aluminum tie rod has 200 miles on them and so do the brand new tires. I swapped all the tires around twice , once side to side and then front to back and the pull was the same.
What could be causing the pull?

I’d start with adding more positive caster, closer to 5°. If axle position is good, you can shorten the upper arms. If you only have adjustable lowers, then you will make the lowers longer.

 

[DaBank]

I’d start with adding more positive caster, closer to 5°. If axle position is good, you can shorten the upper arms. If you only have adjustable lowers, then you will make the lowers longer.

Both the lower and uppers are adjustable. The Jeep pulls to the right even driving in the middle of the road or on the wrong side of the road. The dealer says it is radial pull. The tires are brand new Toyo Mt 37x12.5x17, I always heard they pull to the right but I can't imagine them pulling this hard? The Jeep starts going right with in 50 feet if driving.

 

[wayoflife]

Both the lower and uppers are adjustable. The Jeep pulls to the right even driving in the middle of the road or on the wrong side of the road. The dealer says it is radial pull. The tires are brand new Toyo Mt 37x12.5x17, I always heard they pull to the right but I can't imagine them pulling this hard? The Jeep starts going right with in 50 feet if driving.

Toyo MT's do have a radial pull to the right just like Nitto TGs pull to the left. If you're running a pressurized steering stabilizer, that can amplify the sensation.

 

[Disciple Off Road]

Both the lower and uppers are adjustable. The Jeep pulls to the right even driving in the middle of the road or on the wrong side of the road. The dealer says it is radial pull. The tires are brand new Toyo Mt 37x12.5x17, I always heard they pull to the right but I can't imagine them pulling this hard? The Jeep starts going right with in 50 feet if driving.

Then adjust using the uppers. Not saying caster is 100% the issue but can absolutely contributes to drivability.

Do you have a big fancy steering stabilizer? Those can also contribute to that.

 

[DaBank]

Toyo MT's do have a radial pull to the right just like Nitto TGs pull to the left. If you're running a pressurized steering stabilizer, that can amplify the sensation.

I removed the stabilizer and there was zero difference.

 

[wayoflife]

I removed the stabilizer and there was zero difference.

Like I said, it "can" amplify what you're feeling. Not cause it or make it go away.

 

[DaBank]

Then adjust using the uppers. Not saying caster is 100% the issue but can absolutely contributes to drivability.

Do you have a big fancy steering stabilizer? Those can also contribute to that.

I have a Teraflex 9550 stabilizer. I have removed it and it made no difference.
The steering is nice and tight. I can pull down my driveway with no hands on the steering wheel and it will stay straight but with in 50 feet the steering wheel will turn about 1 inch right with no hands on it. When driving and hold the wheel it is about a half a inch to the left and it drives straight and the steering tightness and response both directions feels great but take hands off steering wheel and with in 2 or 3 car lengths I am driving in a different lane.

 

[wayoflife]

I have a Teraflex 9550 stabilizer. I have removed it and it made no difference.
The steering is nice and tight. I can pull down my driveway with no hands on the steering wheel and it will stay straight but with in 50 feet the steering wheel will turn about 1 inch right with no hands on it. When driving and hold the wheel it is about a half a inch to the left and it drives straight and the steering tightness and response both directions feels great but take hands off steering wheel and with in 2 or 3 car lengths I am driving in a different lane.

Sounds totally normal to me.

 

[DaBank]

Sounds totally normal to me.

With the old Cooper Mt tires had no pull. I just squared up the axles to the frame and installed the Toyos and had it aligned and now it pulls hard right no matter if I drive in the center of the road or on the wrong side of the road. I figured driving in the center would reduce the right pull and driving on the wrong side that it would have no pull or pull to the left?

 

[wayoflife]

With the old Cooper Mt tires had no pull. I just squared up the axles to the frame and installed the Toyos and had it aligned and now it pulls hard right no matter if I drive in the center of the road or on the wrong side of the road. I figured driving in the center would reduce the right pull and driving on the wrong side that it would have no pull or pull to the left?

Yeah, that sounds about right too. My old Coopers did not have a radial pull. The 37” Toyos I’ve run in the past did and to the right, just like my Trail Grapplers do to the left but I’m pretty sure I said that already.

 

[DaBank]

Yeah, that sounds about right too. My old Coopers did not have a radial pull. The 37” Toyos I’ve run in the past did and to the right, just like my Trail Grapplers do to the left but I’m pretty sure I said that already.

Do you think the pull will get better with milage or it will remain the same?
Does Everything look good to you on the alignment?