Enforcers Unite!

So I got to test out my EVO Enforcer lift over the weekend.
3" Enforcer Stage 3 with draglink flip
EVO Rockstar rear control arm skids
Rancho RS999331 Shocks (front)
Rancho RS999330 Shocks (rear)
Cooper STT Pro 315/70/17
4 inch backspace wheels + spacers

I got 4 inches of lift with this setup on my 2 door Rubicon.

I get some rubbing at full stuff on my front fenders (untrimmed). Overall I'm pretty happy with the ride and performance on and off road.

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rubiDave said:
So I got to test out my EVO Enforcer lift over the weekend.
3" Enforcer Stage 3 with draglink flip
EVO Rockstar rear control arm skids
Rancho RS999331 Shocks (front)
Rancho RS999330 Shocks (rear)
Cooper STT Pro 315/70/17
4 inch backspace wheels + spacers

I got 4 inches of lift with this setup on my 2 door Rubicon.

I get some rubbing at full stuff on my front fenders (untrimmed). Overall I'm pretty happy with the ride and performance on and off road.
Click to expand...

Looks great Dave... You said “pretty happy”.... does it ride better than stock?
 
TrailHunter said:
Looks great Dave... You said “pretty happy”.... does it ride better than stock?
Click to expand...

Better than sock... Yes and No...

The combination of shocks and spring rate is great. Less nose dive on braking, better damped over speed bumps, less hard bottoming on obstacles off road. I do feel bumps in the road and potholes more - not so much bump steer - just in the seat of the pants and a little steering wheel jiggle. I think this is due to the steeper control arm angle, it's not a long arm after all.

I only did a DIY alignment, I think caster is around 4 or 5°. It is not flighty at all, and no driveshaft vibes up to 85 mph which is the fastest I have gone with it. Steering was a bit tighter at first, I think to new ball joints, but seemed great driving home after wheeling in Big Bear on Sunday. Body roll feeling on quick lane changes is perceptibly different due to higher CG. Just something to get used to.

I guess my main gripe was the fender rubbing, I'm going to have to decide whether to trim fenders or add bumpstop.

I have the JK lean now too, especially front passenger which if off by half an inch. I'm going to give it some time to settle but I think I'll get an OME 10mm spacer to help level it out.

Off road there were a few weird pop and 'boing' noises - kind of like something hitting a spring but maybe was just a momentary fender rub. A cursory inspection on the trail didn't reveal any spring contact, but I'll take a closer look at it later for rub marks.

The bigger tires make braking closer to what my old truck was like, and off the line acceleration is a bit slower. I'm still running stock 4.10 gearing. I didn't really have any issue with hill climbing / downshifting, though I'm sure it was different. I'm not motivated to do a gear change yet.
 
For the popping, make sure your front springs are seated properly and dialed in to the stops in the perch.

For the ride quality, play with the settings on the shocks. Also, pay attention to the bump stops in the rear... I had to add spacers to get off the bump stops because even at the smallest hit I would feel them. If you're not riding low, you may just have to run the rear shocks at a higher pressure than the front.

--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
rubiDave said:
Better than sock... Yes and No...

The combination of shocks and spring rate is great. Less nose dive on braking, better damped over speed bumps, less hard bottoming on obstacles off road. I do feel bumps in the road and potholes more - not so much bump steer - just in the seat of the pants and a little steering wheel jiggle. I think this is due to the steeper control arm angle, it's not a long arm after all.

I only did a DIY alignment, I think caster is around 4 or 5°. It is not flighty at all, and no driveshaft vibes up to 85 mph which is the fastest I have gone with it. Steering was a bit tighter at first, I think to new ball joints, but seemed great driving home after wheeling in Big Bear on Sunday. Body roll feeling on quick lane changes is perceptibly different due to higher CG. Just something to get used to.

I guess my main gripe was the fender rubbing, I'm going to have to decide whether to trim fenders or add bumpstop.

I have the JK lean now too, especially front passenger which if off by half an inch. I'm going to give it some time to settle but I think I'll get an OME 10mm spacer to help level it out.

Off road there were a few weird pop and 'boing' noises - kind of like something hitting a spring but maybe was just a momentary fender rub. A cursory inspection on the trail didn't reveal any spring contact, but I'll take a closer look at it later for rub marks.

The bigger tires make braking closer to what my old truck was like, and off the line acceleration is a bit slower. I'm still running stock 4.10 gearing. I didn't really have any issue with hill climbing / downshifting, though I'm sure it was different. I'm not motivated to do a gear change yet.
Click to expand...

The noises you are hearing could also be the spring rubbing against the c-gussets. I noticed this on mine the first time out with them. Generally I only here it when flexing. Knowing now, I may have tried to pull the gusset a little tighter to the knuckle... you can easily see if the spring is resting against the gusset. I bet thats it. It really doesn’t bother me anymore. But like you I was thinking what the Hell is that noise.

I plan on removing my inner fenders, then cutting a 1/2” or so off the Lip... I think a total flat fender will look to high with the 35’s.... Basically just create enough clearance for full flex with out needing more bump.
 
Last edited:
BaddestCross said:
For the popping, make sure your front springs are seated properly and dialed in to the stops in the perch.

For the ride quality, play with the settings on the shocks. Also, pay attention to the bump stops in the rear... I had to add spacers to get off the bump stops because even at the smallest hit I would feel them. If you're not riding low, you may just have to run the rear shocks at a higher pressure than the front.

--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona -* https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
Click to expand...

Check and check on the front springs. All is OK there.
I put wedge spacers in the back due to the amount of axle tilt for rear pinion angle. Maybe adds half an inch on average.
I dont run as heavy as you and have about 5 inches down travel available. I didn't notice any rubbing in the back. I'm running the front shocks at 4 and rear at 5. I'm not dissatisfied but agree it could use a bit of experimentation.

TrailHunter said:
The noises you are hearing could also be the spring rubbing against the c-gussets. I noticed this on mine the first time out with them.* Generally I only here it when flexing.* Knowing now, I may have tried to pull the gusset a little tighter to the knuckle...* you can easily see if the spring is resting against the gusset.* I bet thats it.* It really doesn’t bother me anymore. But like you I was thinking what the Hell is that noise.

I plan on removing my inner fenders, then cutting a 1/2” or so off the Lip... I think a total flat fender will look to high with the 35’s.... Basically just create enough clearance for full flex with out needing more bump.
Click to expand...

Just checked and springs appear to be touching the C gussets. I can't find my feeler gauges but I can't slip a piece of paper in between. That's a likely source of the weird noise.
I'm on the fence about trimming. I'll probably just make a 1/2 add on bumpstop spacer and put it in. I think that would do it. It just barely touches. No rubbing was noticed in the rear, so I think I'm fine there.

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rubiDave said:
Check and check on the front springs. All is OK there.
I put wedge spacers in the back due to the amount of axle tilt for rear pinion angle. Maybe adds half an inch on average.
I dont run as heavy as you and have about 5 inches down travel available. I didn't notice any rubbing in the back. I'm running the front shocks at 4 and rear at 5. I'm not dissatisfied but agree it could use a bit of experimentation.



Just checked and springs appear to be touching the C gussets. I can't find my feeler gauges but I can't slip a piece of paper in between. That's a likely source of the weird noise.
I'm on the fence about trimming. I'll probably just make a 1/2 add on bumpstop spacer and put it in. I think that would do it. It just barely touches. No rubbing was noticed in the rear, so I think I'm fine there.

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Click to expand...
Oh and I just noticed that the rear trackbar bolt on the frame side is contacting the bumpstop. The jounce stop imprint is pretty far forward on the bumpstop. I can't make my rear lower control arms any shorter, so i guess I'm going to try to move the bumpstops forward.
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rubiDave said:
Better than sock... Yes and No...

The combination of shocks and spring rate is great. Less nose dive on braking, better damped over speed bumps, less hard bottoming on obstacles off road. I do feel bumps in the road and potholes more - not so much bump steer - just in the seat of the pants and a little steering wheel jiggle. I think this is due to the steeper control arm angle, it's not a long arm after all.

I only did a DIY alignment, I think caster is around 4 or 5°. It is not flighty at all, and no driveshaft vibes up to 85 mph which is the fastest I have gone with it. Steering was a bit tighter at first, I think to new ball joints, but seemed great driving home after wheeling in Big Bear on Sunday. Body roll feeling on quick lane changes is perceptibly different due to higher CG. Just something to get used to.

I guess my main gripe was the fender rubbing, I'm going to have to decide whether to trim fenders or add bumpstop.

I have the JK lean now too, especially front passenger which if off by half an inch. I'm going to give it some time to settle but I think I'll get an OME 10mm spacer to help level it out.

Off road there were a few weird pop and 'boing' noises - kind of like something hitting a spring but maybe was just a momentary fender rub. A cursory inspection on the trail didn't reveal any spring contact, but I'll take a closer look at it later for rub marks.

The bigger tires make braking closer to what my old truck was like, and off the line acceleration is a bit slower. I'm still running stock 4.10 gearing. I didn't really have any issue with hill climbing / downshifting, though I'm sure it was different. I'm not motivated to do a gear change yet.
Click to expand...

I never was unhappy with the 4.1 on the 35s so totally get it .

Feeling bumps more on potholes is normal and gets worse with bigger tires .

On fender vs bumpstop which way you leaning ? If you keep running them as is you’ll prob flex off your fenders or at least clearance the inner frame pieces .


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rubiDave said:
Oh and I just noticed that the rear trackbar bolt on the frame side is contacting the bumpstop. The jounce stop imprint is pretty far forward on the bumpstop. I can't make my rear lower control arms any shorter, so i guess I'm going to try to move the bumpstops forward.
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View attachment 325179


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Click to expand...

The bumpstop is fine, just pull the track bar bolts and turn it around. Then, if it still hits use a bit of grinder action on the offending part.

That probably explains most of the clunking noise you had.
 
jdofmemi said:
The bumpstop is fine, just pull the track bar bolts and turn it around. Then, if it still hits use a bit of grinder action on the offending part.

That probably explains most of the clunking noise you had.
Click to expand...
Brilliant. Probably won't even need a grinder, it appears its only like a sixteenth interference.

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danford.lau said:
I never was unhappy with the 4.1 on the 35s so totally get it .

Feeling bumps more on potholes is normal and gets worse with bigger tires .

On fender vs bumpstop which way you leaning ? If you keep running them as is you’ll prob flex off your fenders or at least clearance the inner frame pieces .


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...
I'll try bumpstops first, I think I can fab a 1/2 inch spacer and add it to the stack.

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I removed the rear frame side track bar bolt and flipped it around so the threaded end and nut are to the rear. That should solve the clash with the rear bumpstop extension.

I went around and checked all the other bolts torques. I think EVO recommended doing this after 500 miles. I only have around 200 miles on it but that includes running 3 of the tougher trails in Big Bear. I found the passenger side front LCA pinch bolt had loosened (or pinch joint ear relieved) enough so that the Johnny joint could twist in the adjuster sleeve. Driver side LCA pinch bolt was not to spec on torque but, Johnny joint was still tight. Also the forward 9/16 bolt holding the front raised trackbar bracket seemed loose. I had used red loctite on this so I dont think it loosened, just that some metal bracketry had relieved. I guess that's why they recommend welding the brackets on. That job is on my short list now.

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rubiDave said:
I removed the rear frame side track bar bolt and flipped it around so the threaded end and nut are to the rear. That should solve the clash with the rear bumpstop extension.

I went around and checked all the other bolts torques. I think EVO recommended doing this after 500 miles. I only have around 200 miles on it but that includes running 3 of the tougher trails in Big Bear. I found the passenger side front LCA pinch bolt had loosened (or pinch joint ear relieved) enough so that the Johnny joint could twist in the adjuster sleeve. Driver side LCA pinch bolt was not to spec on torque but, Johnny joint was still tight. Also the forward 9/16 bolt holding the front raised trackbar bracket seemed loose. I had used red loctite on this so I dont think it loosened, just that some metal bracketry had relieved. I guess that's why they recommend welding the brackets on. That job is on my short list now.

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Click to expand...

Wanna try on mine ? [emoji51] I’m thinking I should bolt check all bolts on Saturday before disassembling so we can tell if anything is loose that could be causing the issue


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Does anyone have the lengths for the control arms for the 3” enforcer stage 3 lift handy ? Would like to emulate and double check that the shop didn’t mess up any other measurements


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Does anyone have the lengths for the control arms for the 3” enforcer stage 3 lift handy ? Would like to emulate and double check that the shop didn’t mess up any other measurements


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