The 2 door to 4 door switch?

ssh6314

ssh6314

Member
So atm I'm in a 2008 2 door sport.View attachment 26312.

I've kept it mostly stock except for the hellfires and the rims and toyos. In anticipation for January ( tax's / yearly bonus ) in which either a 4 inch enforcer. Or bolt ons are getting installed along with 37's. But with the addition of my son, the 2 door isn't practical. I've been looking at this 4 door.

http://www.brucetitus.com/mobile/#/mobile/2011-Jeep-Wrangler-Unlimited-Sport-Olympia-WA/vd/13700227

I wanted to stick with the black. But when buying a used options are limited.
The natural green seems to be black at night anyways from what I've read. This one has all the inside electronics mine doesn't. For less than what my current loan is. ( bumper to bumper warranty ) I'm going in tomorrow to see if I can trade up and keep my current payment. And swap my wheels for there stockers. *fingers crossed* hoping that its an auto it has the 4.10 ratio option..
 
I doubt it has 4.10's but good luck. I would keep looking as you should be able to get into a rubicon for around that price and year.
 
X2 on keep looking I bought a 2010 4dr rubi with just under 19k miles loaded out for $29k back in July. It was in excellent condition. Had never been offroad just like I like it.
 
The link didn't work for me, but if its a 2010 Sport for mid-upper $20k, then it's not worth the investment. Skip some options and buy brand new for that price. I've even noticed a dealer in the Seattle area selling new JKU's for $22,400 with 4wd. That's with no options, but they come standard with AC & Cruise and you are wanting to swap for your wheels/tires anyways... Interest and insurance rates will be better on new, and you don't have to mess with the 3.8/4 speed anymore
 
It's a 2011 37 thousand miles. With 3.73's, auto. Loaded. For 24k used Rubicons are rare around here. I've found one. An 08, and they wanted more than a new '13 sport for it. Idk.

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I thought the one you linked was an '08 thats why I said same year and price. My mistake. If you can get a '12 or '13 sport for around that price I would. The new motor is hands downs better then the 3.8L and you will be way happier with it.
 
A JKU Sport S which includes power, add auto and 3.73's, is $30,500 sticker. Take $3-$4K off that for a negotiated deal of about $27K. $2,500 more for brand new and the new engine/trani is a no brainer IMO.

:twocents:
 
So, I went ahead and got a 2011 sport. Loaded, hard and soft top, got to take my wheels, and has 4.10's :D for 24k total after taxes, gap, and 100k warranty. Which they said will cover any non after market parts. No matter what. I asked what about as an example the diffs, even if I lift it and out on 37's. And the lift/tires was the direct result of the diff going to crap. They said as long as it is the stock diff. It would be replaced, ( I got all this in writing ) I feel like I robbed them ;). I pick it up tomorrow since I was door and topless today when I was at the dealership. I really wanted a 12-13 wrangler. But I swear my dealer doesn't have a single one they haven't put on a bb and 35's or the mopar branded Fox lift with 35's and try to sell it for 35+ grand. Pics to come soon.


Hopefully the wayalife/ project JK stickers are in stock :)

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The dealership is getting really irritating. My jeep has to through a dealership safety inspection before I can pick it up. And for the last 2 days it hasn't moved from its parking spot outside the shop-.-. I've stopped in twice to check on the progress and keep getting the "couple days" line. I'm about to rip up this contract and go somewhere else.

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ssh6314 said:
The dealership is getting really irritating. My jeep has to through a dealership safety inspection before I can pick it up. And for the last 2 days it hasn't moved from its parking spot outside the shop-.-. I've stopped in twice to check on the progress and keep getting the "couple days" line. I'm about to rip up this contract and go somewhere else.

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I would. Unless you already have the new jeep. Or tell them when they are ready you will bring your rig back.
 
2011 is still the 3.8 and even with 4.10s don't expect to be able to run 37's. The 3.6 with 4.10s can, but the 4spd with the 3.8 is bad enough on 33's and a complete dog with 35's, I wouldn't even attempt 37's and you will need a trans cooler if u see any hills or wanna use 4hi even on flat ground.

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TheDuff said:
2011 is still the 3.8 and even with 4.10s don't expect to be able to run 37's. The 3.6 with 4.10s can, but the 4spd with the 3.8 is bad enough on 33's and a complete dog with 35's, I wouldn't even attempt 37's and you will need a trans cooler if u see any hills or wanna use 4hi even on flat ground.

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I plan on a regear. To 5:13's, at the very least 4:88's. I know the d30 on 5:13's isn't ideal. But people do it. And a pr44 is in my future (January)ish when my bonus hits/taxes. But is the auto that bad? I'm in a 6 speed atm, and I know I'm gonna lose that Manuel umph I'm used to. But that bad?! And a trans cooler?

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ssh6314 said:
I plan on a regear. To 5:13's, at the very least 4:88's. I know the d30 on 5:13's isn't ideal. But people do it. And a pr44 is in my future (January)ish when my bonus hits/taxes. But is the auto that bad? I'm in a 6 speed atm, and I know I'm gonna lose that Manuel umph I'm used to. But that bad?! And a trans cooler?

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The auto is great off road, on road with even just 33's its garbage compared to the 5spd auto in the 2012-2013. You will need a cooler if u have any hills on the highways where u live. My trans lived at 190f before I got a cooler and several times I hit the "hot oil" light on the dash with temps reaching 224f going up a grade. That was on a day where it was only 70f outside with 2 adults, a toddler, and normal camping stuff in the back. The new 5spd trans has no problems on 33's with 3.73 gearing, was easily able to maintain 80mph all the way from San Diego to moab. So yea the 4spd is that bad IMO

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TheDuff said:
The auto is great off road, on road with even just 33's its garbage compared to the 5spd auto in the 2012-2013. You will need a cooler if u have any hills on the highways where u live. My trans lived at 190f before I got a cooler and several times I hit the "hot oil" light on the dash with temps reaching 224f going up a grade. That was on a day where it was only 70f outside with 2 adults, a toddler, and normal camping stuff in the back. The new 5spd trans has no problems on 33's with 3.73 gearing, was easily able to maintain 80mph all the way from San Diego to moab. So yea the 4spd is that bad IMO

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Ive read the heat issues where in 07-09, but that was just random internet browsing on the issue, and is taken with a grain of salt. a 12/13 is kinda out of the question financially, or I would of course go for the 3.6/5 speed etc, a 2011 was the closest I could get. so being stuck with the 3.8 are transmission coolers expensive? easily installed etc?
 
ssh6314 said:
Ive read the heat issues where in 07-09, but that was just random internet browsing on the issue, and is taken with a grain of salt. a 12/13 is kinda out of the question financially, or I would of course go for the 3.6/5 speed etc, a 2011 was the closest I could get. so being stuck with the 3.8 are transmission coolers expensive? easily installed etc?
Click to expand...

A trans cooler can be done for as little as $100, possibly cheaper. I got the orw kit for 260. The Mopar kit is 600:eek:
I don't see the heat issues being random, more that most people don't have a way to monitor the temp. I have a trail dash, so I can see the temp in real time as reported from the factory sensor. The 2011 is sadly kind of a bastard year, u won't have the option of a programmer that can read the factory sensors from the obd port, instead u would have to add an aftermarket sensor to the trans line, at which point may not be accurate. Over heating the trans can easily result in a fire and should not be taken lightly. Atf burns easily, if the fluid starts to boil it can come out the fill spout and will land directly onto the passenger side exhaust manifold. If that happens, it will ignite. Nearby is a rubber fuel line, which can easily melt if flaming atf is on the manifold... U can guess what will happen next, and it has happened to more than one person.
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With my trans cooler the highest I've seen now is 195f. Its generally around 140f on the highway.

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