Axel Reinformement - Absolutly Nessessary? On 35's

FamilyOverland said:
Good to know, I will schedule some time at a local shop to have this done. Seems like good insurance. I will not be wheeling Tuck hard right out the gate, but you guys had a good point, its not that expensive much less than even one of these tires.
Anyone from Calgary know of a good shop? I will be there for the month of Feb.
Also my local shop sells Evo and Artech, the Artech are a little more expensive, any thoughts on which ones to go with?
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Both are made in the USA so both are good choices. Many here have had great luck with the EVO ones so it would be a safe bet that those would work fine. I wonder if the artec ones are thicker... 🤔

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On my 2014 jkur I had the alignment checked right away (had a buddy whose shop has a state of the art alignment rack) and then every 10,000 miles or so up to 60,000 miles when I traded the jeep. I ran toyo 35's did the rubicon trail, the dusy ershim trail and took it to Moab at least once a year some times twice ran mid difficult trails like golden spike, kane creek, rose garden, behind the rocks etc and right before I traded it had it checked and during that time my camber did not change. It was slightly out of spec on one side from brand new and the numbers did not change enough in 60,000 miles to worry me. I was probably lucky but based on my numbers I knew my tubes or my C's were not bending.
 
jeffd said:
On my 2014 jkur I had the alignment checked right away (had a buddy whose shop has a state of the art alignment rack) and then every 10,000 miles or so up to 60,000 miles when I traded the jeep. I ran toyo 35's did the rubicon trail, the dusy ershim trail and took it to Moab at least once a year some times twice ran mid difficult trails like golden spike, kane creek, rose garden, behind the rocks etc and right before I traded it had it checked and during that time my camber did not change. It was slightly out of spec on one side from brand new and the numbers did not change enough in 60,000 miles to worry me. I was probably lucky but based on my numbers I knew my tubes or my C's were not bending.
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Maybe I missed it, but with or without c gussets?
 
FamilyOverland said:
I have been wondering about the ball joints, less because of mileage (Tuck only has 23,000mi) but because I am planning a serious trip next year up to Prudhoe Bay and was wondering if this would be a weak point.

Fortunately I don't have a Recon, so the current stable of aftermarket ones should work.
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are you saying the C gussets don't work on the Recon or the aftermarket ball joints?
 
WJCO said:
I don't think gussets will work. The Cs are bigger. Don't think the gussets would even fit at all. I'm not sure on the ball joints.
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yea, i figured the gussets didn't work. the Cs on my Recon are quite a bit bigger than my old Rubi. i guess its way too early for anyone to have changed their ball joints on a Recon but with FCA you never know. :cheesy:
 
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The biggest concern with the Recon axle is not the C's, Mopar upgraded those beyond the weaker design from previous years, the issue with the recon axle is that it is still a 2.5" tube which is prone to bending
 
jorgelrod said:
The biggest concern with the Recon axle is not the C's, Mopar upgraded those beyond the weaker design from previous years, the issue with the recon axle is that it is still a 2.5" tube which is prone to bending
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The Recon uses 5/16" walls rather than the 1/4" on the standard axle. I did some quick calculations, and I think this increases the bending strength by about 17%.

I am not an axle expert, so I must ask, are the bearings that support the shafts the unit bearings on the outboard side, and housed w/in the diff housing on the inboard side? What I'm trying to ask is does the tube wall thickness change the bearings (or anything else)?
 
Think I am going to order the gussets up and modify. I did reach out to evo and they said they were not necessary but sleeves and truss’s are suggested.


When in doubt, throttle out.
 
DK570 said:
I am not an axle expert, so I must ask, are the bearings that support the shafts the unit bearings on the outboard side, and housed w/in the diff housing on the inboard side? What I'm trying to ask is does the tube wall thickness change the bearings (or anything else)?
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The Inner half of the axle is supported by the differential. The diff has the bearings on either side of it inside the pumpkin. There are no bearings in the tubes themselves, only the axle seals. The outer shafts are independent of the tubes, they plug into the unit bearing.
 
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