Rubi sway bar. Keep stock, discos or antirock?

wjtstudios

Hooked
What’s wrong with it? If the auto disconnect is not working, it’s not hard to disassemble it, clean it and grease it. If you what to change it up and get rid of the factory motor, you can do an EVO no limits Manuel or air disconnect that eliminates that problem all together. That’s for the front. For the rear, unless the sway bar is in the way of a suspension system, the OEM is fine. Just extend the links based off the lift
 

Bierpower

Active Member
Evo no limits is about the best option if you want to maintain from the seat actuation. Need air to run it though.
 

RESURECTIONJK

Active Member
I’ll throw a wrench in the mix and say go with a sport bar and an Apex Designs pair of autolynx. Been running them hard for nearly a year. A solid option. Others have mentioned the no limits and it’s also great. Lots of good choices around.
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BlueRubicon

Caught the Bug
The EVO manual is inexpensive and works great. The factory disconnect motor IMO is shit if you are in an area with alot of water crossings. I don't like water crossings because water is the worst thing for a vehicle. My disconnect motor shorted out 6 months after purchasing Jeep. When I removed and disassembled it to troubleshoot the problem, the inside of it was wet and the circuit board was shorted. Seems to me it really isn't designed to be submerged which is pretty stupid on a Wrangler Rubicon.
 

Spazbyt

Active Member
Not to get off topic but how the hell does a Currie Anti Rock actually work? Correct me if I'm wrong but Its essentially a softer sway bar to offer more articulation off road (but less then disconnects) but some how firm enough to give you good road characteristics (but less firm then factory connected) I see a argument that you actually want "some" swaybar pressure off road so maybe that's the key and it looks to be adaptable to a lot of different axle set ups. Just seems like a jack of all trades master of none to me.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Not to get off topic but how the hell does a Currie Anti Rock actually work? Correct me if I'm wrong but Its essentially a softer sway bar to offer more articulation off road (but less then disconnects) but some how firm enough to give you good road characteristics (but less firm then factory connected) I see a argument that you actually want "some" swaybar pressure off road so maybe that's the key and it looks to be adaptable to a lot of different axle set ups. Just seems like a jack of all trades master of none to me.
You are correct. It is softer than a factory sway bar and stiffer than being disconnected. From personal experience, I can tell you that the on road ride is okay but I still prefer a stock sway bar. On the rocks, the Antirock WILL LIMIT FLEX. I have literally done an apples to apples comparison and the difference is significant, especially in the rear.
 

bhaner

Active Member
I run front and rear antirocks on mine. Never had issues with flexing offroad or driving on the highway. I agree with Eddie that it does limit travel. I have seen the tests. However I haven't found it to hurt my rigs performance.

What I can tell you is it is nice not to need to worry about disconnecting/connecting all the time.

It also offers stability offroad that you will not get being disconnected. It seems to do a great job keeping the body level. You don't get that tippy feeling.
 

bobfriesenhahn

Caught the Bug
The EVO manual is inexpensive and works great. The factory disconnect motor IMO is shit if you are in an area with alot of water crossings. I don't like water crossings because water is the worst thing for a vehicle. My disconnect motor shorted out 6 months after purchasing Jeep. When I removed and disassembled it to troubleshoot the problem, the inside of it was wet and the circuit board was shorted. Seems to me it really isn't designed to be submerged which is pretty stupid on a Wrangler Rubicon.
JK or JL? I know the JK has this sort of problem.
 
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