Need Tipps for building a D30 for trophy

Foley

Member
Hi,

I hope this is the right place to post it. What is this about? I will ride my first 4x4 trophy in march. For this I will use my XJ. There are some different starter classes and different rules for the classes. The important one for my is that I'm limited to 84cm/33" tire size in my starter class. That is the main reason that I want to stay with my D30 front axle. If I would upgrade to a D44 I will loose some very important clearance.

So, its a 8 hour trophy. The Team who absolves the most laps, winns. If something break, you can fix it. But while you fix your stuff you are loosing time to run laps. I hope you guys understand what I mean.

Now, the part where I need your help: How do I get the D30 to hold up the trophy :thinking: ?

My actual setting is: D30 High Pinion, G2 4,56 Gears, Ox Locker 27 Spline, Factory Axle Shaft, HD Spicer Ball Joints

The tire that I running is a 255/85 R16 rebranded Maxxis Trepador on some self made beadlock steel rims.

download11kkc.jpg



Thank you for your Help!

Lg
 
That sounds like a fun event. For a D30, you have a pretty strong setup already. I would consider c-gussets for the end forgings and maybe chromoly axle shafts and a strong diff cover. I'm sure others with more experience than me will have additional suggestions.


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Can’t help you with race specific stuff but what u joints are you using? The 30 is surprisingly stout and you’re using adequate sized tires for it.


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You're running laps for 8 hours on a locked Dana 30 on 4.56 gears?

Hi,

thanks four your answer.

of curse I not running just an axle. Its part of my Xj. It's also not the whole time locked, but there are some sections there you need to lock the front. Sometimes you need to winch.

Hier is an example. You will see that all 4 classes running at the same time. The protoype and buggie classes also have some harder sections on there laps, there I dont have to drive throw. In my class are mostly Suzuki SJ, Cherokees, Grand Cherokees, TJs and they all have to be steet legal except tires and rims.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36N4KsZolsQ&t=660s



That sounds like a fun event. For a D30, you have a pretty strong setup already. I would consider c-gussets for the end forgings and maybe chromoly axle shafts and a strong diff cover. I'm sure others with more experience than me will have additional suggestions.


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Hi,

thanks four your answer.

I forget to tell that I ve the "Old" OX Lockers that have the strong diff cover. Do you have a recommendation for chromoly axle shafts? Good tipp to strength the C clips.

Can’t help you with race specific stuff but what u joints are you using? The 30 is surprisingly stout and you’re using adequate sized tires for it.


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Hi,

thanks four your answer. I'm using the "factory" size and type spicer U joints. They are face lift/ABS axle shafts, so they U Joints are a little stronger than Pre-Face Lift. Thats my biggest worry that my U joints/axle shafts break ...

So, maybee I have to post a picture of my XJ first:

imag3429arjkx.jpg


whatsappimage2019-09iijmw.jpeg


Lg
 
Last edited:
Hi,

thanks four your answer.

of curse I not running just an axle. Its part of my Xj. It's also not the whole time locked, but there are some sections there you need to lock the front. Sometimes you need to winch.

Hier is an example. You will see that all 4 classes running at the same time. The protoype and buggie classes also have some harder sections on there laps, there I dont have to drive throw. In my class are mostly Suzuki SJ, Cherokees, Grand Cherokees, TJs and they all have to be steet legal except tires and rims.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36N4KsZolsQ&t=660s





Hi,

thanks four your answer.

I forget to tell that I ve the "Old" OX Lockers that have the strong diff cover. Do you have a recommendation for chromoly axle shafts? Good tipp to strength the C clips.



Hi,

thanks four your answer. I'm using the "factory" size and type spicer U joints. They are face lift/ABS axle shafts, so they U Joints are a little stronger than Pre-Face Lift. Thats my biggest worry that my U joints/axle shafts break ...

So, maybee I have to post a picture of my XJ first:



Lg

I do not have experience beefing up a D30 and cannot help you with your question. But that looks pretty fun! Although I don't know if I could run the same course for 8 hours... Good luck OP!
 
Good tipp to strength the C clips.



I'm using the "factory" size and type spicer U joints. They are face lift/ABS axle shafts, so they U Joints are a little stronger than Pre-Face Lift. Thats my biggest worry that my U joints/axle shafts break ...

When he said c gussets he meant to weld on gussets to strengthen the axle housing. There are no c clips on a d30 axleshaft. I wouldn’t personally bother with the gussets on a xj/tj/zj, it’s not necessary like on jk/jku imo.

If I were you I would upgrade the u joints to the cold drop forged spicers, they’re the much stronger ones that rubicon tj’s came with. And let’s be honest you probably need new u joints anyways, so cheap insurance.
Spicer 5-760x


I think you’re much more likely to blow a driveshaft then take out the front axle.

You haven’t mentioned what rear you’re running?


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When he said c gussets he meant to weld on gussets to strengthen the axle housing. There are no c clips on a d30 axleshaft. I wouldn’t personally bother with the gussets on a xj/tj/zj, it’s not necessary like on jk/jku imo.

If I were you I would upgrade the u joints to the cold drop forged spicers, they’re the much stronger ones that rubicon tj’s came with. And let’s be honest you probably need new u joints anyways, so cheap insurance.
Spicer 5-760x


I think you’re much more likely to blow a driveshaft then take out the front axle.

You haven’t mentioned what rear you’re running?


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Hi,

thanks for that input.

First: After 4 hours there is a 1 1/2 hour break. While the trophy you can change your passenger, because sometime If you have to winch a lot the passenger hold up the whole 4 hours.

I wasnt sure but I thought to "C" where the ball joints where press in where called C Clips in english. Sorry, I was wrong. C-Clips are in the D35 holding the shafts in place. Theese gussets are against bending the outer C's, right?

I'm running a D35, sleeved with OX Locker, G2 Ring & Pinion, 30 Spline G2 upgraded axle shafts. The drive shaft yoke is upgraded to a bigger yoke from the 2.5 Turbo Diesel Xj. It used 1330 U Joints. The slip yoke is gone and now have a double U joint (1330) drive shaft in the rear. The front is a long travel drive shaft with 1310 U Joints. Driveshafts are full spline and made by Tattons Driveshaft.

So, the weakest points are the axle shaft U joints from the D30 I think? Do you have a link to those U joints?

Do you think going with RCV drive shaft is overkill? Or is it just to NOT kill the ring and pinion because the RCV are very strong?

Thank you
Lg
 
Last edited:
Hi,

thanks for that input.

First: After 4 hours there is a 1 1/2 hour break. While the trophy you can change your passenger, because sometime If you have to winch a lot the passenger hold up the whole 4 hours.

I wasnt sure but I thought to "C" where the ball joints where press in where called C Clips in english. Sorry, I was wrong. C-Clips are in the D35 holding the shafts in place. Theese gussets are against bending the outer C's, right?

I'm running a D35, sleeved with OX Locker, G2 Ring & Pinion, 30 Spline G2 upgraded axle shafts. The drive shaft yoke is upgraded to a bigger yoke from the 2.5 Turbo Diesel Xj. It used 1330 U Joints. The slip yoke is gone and now have a double U joint (1330) drive shaft in the rear. The front is a long travel drive shaft with 1310 U Joints. Driveshafts are full spline and made by Tattons Driveshaft.

So, the weakest points are the axle shaft U joints from the D30 I think? Do you have a link to those U joints?

Do you think going with RCV drive shaft is overkill? Or is it just to NOT kill the ring and pinion because the RCV are very strong?

Thank you
Lg

The RCVs are strong and expensive for what they are. After a couple hard runs, the CVs will start popping on normal turns. There’s nothing physically wrong with them according to RCV, but it’s annoying as hell when you spend that much on a set of shafts. A good set of carbon, Yukon, or revolution front shafts will hold up almost as well with out the snap crackle and pop.


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
 
The RCVs are strong and expensive for what they are. After a couple hard runs, the CVs will start popping on normal turns. There’s nothing physically wrong with them according to RCV, but it’s annoying as hell when you spend that much on a set of shafts. A good set of carbon, Yukon, or revolution front shafts will hold up almost as well with out the snap crackle and pop.


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler

Hi,

oh since in Winter the XJ is my Daily I do not want annoying popping ... So, thanks for this tipp. We dont have Yukon or Carbon in Germany. I imported a Set of JK Rear Axle Shafts from Carbon. Hey look good but the shipping was very expensiv. For 1000€ I can get a Set of G2 axle shafts. Are G2 as good as Carbon?

From that video, I’d focus on a full roll cage and a 5 point harness before worrying about your axle.


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Hi,

in my class all 4x4 have to be street legal. It isnt easy to get a aftermarket roll cage street legal in your 4x4. I tried to get a legal rollcage since a few month. Your are totally right. Just they XJ Body wont hold up really well ...

Lg
 
Assuming you are running the 297/760 u-joints? If not get a set of shafts with for them.
C gussets,
Plate the front of the lower control arm mounts.
Box in and brace the right side upper control arm mount.
Don't hammer on the gas while turning and in tight spots.

I've been running a HP D30 for 15 years with 33x12.5s and have never broken it.

I know you are racing but careful application of the gas pedal will go a long way to keeping the D30 alive.
 
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