If this, then that. Broke this, now what?

wayoflife said:
Looking at the pic, it doesn't look like it was getting oiled. Could be that you were low on fluid.
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Yeah the shop that pressed on new bearings said the same thing, but what's weird is the other side was totally fine and there was plenty of oil in the other tube so... idk
 
desertrunner said:
Yeah the shop that pressed on new bearings said the same thing, but what's weird is the other side was totally fine and there was plenty of oil in the other tube so... idk
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I'm seeing what Eddie is seeing. Looks like improper lubrication (insert joke here).
 
wayoflife said:
This is the single BIGGEST reason why I NEVER recommend semi-float shafts when doing an axle upgrade. Even on a 60, the shaft can break and it's happened to me. Full float is the only way to go. This is also why for factory axles, I typically recommend AGAINST custom shafts with higher splines. It's always easier to find or bum a spare off of people who all have the same thing.

On a JK or newer, you can pull the shaft and keep going but you will want to plug the tube with something. A sock or a rag will work but better the seal the better. Of course, running chromoly shafts with full circle clips alone will do wonders to prevent a break in the first place. 99% of the breaks I've seen have come from bearing caps that have come free due to c-clips working themselves off and that leaves the trunion to just tear through everything. Your unit bearing should let you know it's going bad before it's a real problem so no need to carry a spare in my opinion. Or, so long as you're paying attention to your Jeep.

If you're running a tie-rod with ends that can be replaced, sure, carrying a spare isn't a bad idea but it isn't too common to see them break. The ones I have seen go were aftermarket ones like on a Steer Smart and on tie-rod flips. A sector shaft is great to have and I carry one on Moby - mainly because I've broken one on the trail. It is a big pain to replace on the trail and a spare box would make life easier but if you have ram assist, you can actually get by... just get by without one. Also, there are ways to steer without a steering box. Just a pain.

Yes. If you blow a ring and pinion, you'll need to remove the ring gear but you will ALSO NEED to over fill the housing. Without the ring gear, there is nothing to pump the fluid out to the axle bearings and that can cause them to burn out. Kind of like the pics you posted.
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Lots of good info thank you!

so based on that I'm thinking its smart to try and source an extra 35 spline shaft, maybe a U joint or 2, a sector shaft (no hydro for me yet), and some extra gear oil and i should be relatively covered for some common ish issues to get me to pavement.

do you have a write up or a video of replacing a sector shaft?
 
desertrunner said:
Lots of good info thank you!

so based on that I'm thinking its smart to try and source an extra 35 spline shaft, maybe a U joint or 2, a sector shaft (no hydro for me yet), and some extra gear oil and i should be relatively covered for some common ish issues to get me to pavement.

do you have a write up or a video of replacing a sector shaft?
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-AINOKEA- said:
Also curious what this ☝️entails.. though I’m sure a video would broaden my cuss word vocabulary based on what I’ve heard about the process.
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You can’t replace the sector shaft on the newer steering boxes. It’s the whole box or nothing. I’m guessing the same is true for the JL.
 
desertrunner said:
Yeah the shop that pressed on new bearings said the same thing, but what's weird is the other side was totally fine and there was plenty of oil in the other tube so... idk
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It's tough to say for sure but there may have been something blocking the fluid from getting into the tube. Maybe something at the carrier bearing but I doubt it. Typically, this is caused by there not being enough fluid. The one side could have been getting what little extra fluid was available to go around and then left the other side to starve.
 
desertrunner said:
so based on that I'm thinking its smart to try and source an extra 35 spline shaft, maybe a U joint or 2, a sector shaft (no hydro for me yet), and some extra gear oil and i should be relatively covered for some common ish issues to get me to pavement.
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Being that you have a Sport, you're in luck that you only need one rear shaft and it will work on either side. If you had a Rubicon, you'd need one for each side. U-joints are small and don't take up too much space but most of the front shafts I've seen go end up taking out the yokes as well. Your best bet, in my opinion is to just make sure to run full circle clips.
desertrunner said:
do you have a write up or a video of replacing a sector shaft?
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I don't have a write-up per se but I might have a video that shows us changing mine out. That said, I'm not 100% sure but I'm pretty certain you cannot get a spare sector shafts for a china box, only the Delphi box.
 
Late to the party but in the rear, since you have the 35 spline, assuming you have an ARB. Mainly for the driver side but with ARB, we cut channels in the housing to help oil flow to the outer bearings. Mainly an issue on the driver side since seal housing really restricts oil flow.

ADF06320-4CDD-472B-B571-51BBAB92C164.jpeg
 
Disciple Off Road said:
Late to the party but in the rear, since you have the 35 spline, assuming you have an ARB. Mainly for the driver side but with ARB, we cut channels in the housing to help oil flow to the outer bearings. Mainly an issue on the driver side since seal housing really restricts oil flow.
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Does the PR44 or Carbon/Currie 44 automatically come with a 35 spline in an Eaton setup? So I can't re-use my current 32 spline chromoly shafts or use them as spares?
 
Disciple Off Road said:
Late to the party but in the rear, since you have the 35 spline, assuming you have an ARB. Mainly for the driver side but with ARB, we cut channels in the housing to help oil flow to the outer bearings. Mainly an issue on the driver side since seal housing really restricts oil flow.
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Funny enough it was the passenger side that burned up. But yeah ARB locker and 35 spline
 
TrailHunter said:
Does the PR44 or Carbon/Currie 44 automatically come with a 35 spline in an Eaton setup? So I can't re-use my current 32 spline chromoly shafts or use them as spares?
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the 35 spline is only a rear axle thing. Pretty sure the fronts are all 30 spline? not 100% sure what the stock rubi front is. either way if you put in a 35 spline you are correct that you cannot use a 32 spline spare.
 
desertrunner said:
the 35 spline is only a rear axle thing. Pretty sure the fronts are all 30 spline? not 100% sure what the stock rubi front is. either way if you put in a 35 spline you are correct that you cannot use a 32 spline spare.
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I think you can get 35 spline up front with an arb.. but I’m not sure about the E-locker. Just curious what is standard in the Dynatrac or Currie axle with the e locker.. so I know if I’d be able to re-use my rubi shafts. The Rubi front 44 is 32 spline.
 
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