Clutch questions

[black pearl]

So I just got done putting a new clutch in the jeep. I pulled the old one because of a tick, turned out the throw out bearing was bad. So I replaced everything in the clutch this time,( clutch plate, pressure plate, throw out bearing, throw out arm, Teflon caped ball stud and retainer spring/clip). The slave cylinder was replaced not long ago. I had the flywheel looked to see if it needed any repairs. Anyways I’ve driven it a couple of times and I can hear a small high speed sound. That when I put my finger on the clutch pedal it goes away. Same thing when it had the tick. So I tried bleeding the clutch again, just to see if that helped. It didn’t though. There is no adjustment for the pedal itself. Wondering if anyone has any more ideas, or if you have experienced this. Maybe I’m just being overly paranoid, because I really don’t want to do this again. At least not for a good while.

 

[GP NOIR]

The throwout bearing is known to make noise, even when new. Centerforce now offers an internal slave cylinder type throwout bearing that's supposed to eliminate the problems with the factory throwout bearing, but it's pricey.

 

[black pearl]

The throwout bearing is known to make noise, even when new. Centerforce now offers an internal slave cylinder type throwout bearing that's supposed to eliminate the problems with the factory throwout bearing, but it's pricey.

So I’m being overly paranoid about it at this point.

 

[GP NOIR]

So I’m being overly paranoid about it at this point.

Perhaps, but don’t entirely ignore the issue. The noise of my throw out bearing got louder then became a squeal right before it gave out.

 

[GP NOIR]

PS- If you ever have to replace your clutch again, take a close look at the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch pack. I have one with the heavier flywheel installed in my Rubicon and I like it. The extra momentum helps to keep the engine from stalling while crawling.

Downside is, if you push in the clutch while engine RPMs are up, such as when spinning the tires trying to claw your way up an obstacle, it takes a little longer for the RPMs to drop.

 

[black pearl]

PS- If you ever have to replace your clutch again, take a close look at the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch pack. I have one with the heavier flywheel installed in my Rubicon and I like it. The extra momentum helps to keep the engine from stalling while crawling.

Downside is, if you push in the clutch while engine RPMs are up, such as when spinning the tires trying to claw your way up an obstacle, it takes a little longer for the RPMs to drop.

I’m hoping not to need to do that project anytime soon. I’ll definitely keep that option in mind though.

 

[black pearl]

Update with my clutch woes … after putting the new clutch in and replacing all the other bits and pieces in the bell housing. There was still a small sound but manageable. After driving nine hours it was much louder again. When I feel the pedal it’s like the throw out bearing is bouncing. The small vibration goes away completely when I lightly press the pedal. I don’t know if I need to get the bearing closer or farther away from the pressure plate. I’ve attached a video as well.

 

[GP NOIR]

Here's a video that explains it better-

 

[black pearl]

Here's a video that explains it better-

The only thing I didn’t replace when I had it open was the tube the throw out bearing rides on and I did notice wear on it