MAINTENANCE : Jeep JK Wrangler Rear Brake Pad Replacement

I thought this was a very good write up, but I actually have additional concerns and questions.

My wrangler has an issue that only happens very occasionally, as I drive a 6 speed I don't use my brakes that often. But sometimes when I reverse into my parking spot at home with my windows down, I hold my brake then put up my parking brake shut down the engine and very rarely (bur sometimes..) I hear a *TING* noise. I am assuming is the brake sticking a little bit, sounds like it's coming from the rear left only.

My dealer told me this might happen (oddly enough during my last oil change..) they wanted to charge me $230 plus taxes to lubricate my pins and sliders on my calipers, so I thought maybe it would be in this write-up? I would rather spend like 5 bucks on grease and do it myself! My rear left rotor is a little bit scored, but I don't think its to bad.

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Bedding the brakes

So... since you can see I am a newbie... although this is my third Jeep (01 TJ, 07 JKU, 12 JKU), and am looking to go to ceramic brake pads when I replace them, can someone give a quick guide to bedding them? (no, I'm not looking for how to romance them, take them to some nice trails, etc.).

Thanks for your help! I will be replacing the rear brakes next weekend so any help would be great.
 
How do I get the rotors off?

2010 JKU Rubicon, great write up told me every thing I need to know, I think. The rotors are damaged and need to be replaced. I Removed the clips and thought the rotor would pull off fairly easy. I can't get it to budge. Is there something I'm missing? Looked at another write up and saw to release the parking brake, made sense did so and still can't budge the thing.
 
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Just used the write-up to do my rear pads. It went very smooth. Ended up doing the front pads as well. Thanks!
 
Thanks again for this write-up. I did all four brakes, and then I changed the brake fluid using the "bleeding brakes" write-up. Everything went smoothly, and I saved a ton of money. Thanks for the help.
 
Brake Pads

Wayoflife,

Thanks for the write-up. I noticed you bought the pads from NAPA but I can't tell what type of pads, are they semi-metallic or ceramic? As I understand it, you get longer pad life with the ceramic pads however, at the expense of the rotors. What type of pads did you purchase? The stealership is recommending the Mopar Value-line semi-metallic, what do you think?

Russell
 
imacb278 said:
Wayoflife,

Thanks for the write-up. I noticed you bought the pads from NAPA but I can't tell what type of pads, are they semi-metallic or ceramic? As I understand it, you get longer pad life with the ceramic pads however, at the expense of the rotors. What type of pads did you purchase? The stealership is recommending the Mopar Value-line semi-metallic, what do you think?

Russell
Click to expand...

Never mind, I answered my own question. I think I'm gonna go with Napa Ultra Premiums
 
In my personal opinion, you never want to run ceramic pads on anything but a sports car, and even then, only if you plan on hitting the track (and if you don't mind ruining your wheels.)
 
NFRs2000NYC said:
In my personal opinion, you never want to run ceramic pads on anything but a sports car, and even then, only if you plan on hitting the track (and if you don't mind ruining your wheels.)
Click to expand...

Thanks. I went with the NAPA Ultra Premium, they are semi-metallic and considered an OEM replacement. I was hoping going through NAPA that I would get some parts that were bonafide made in the USA but....not so much. These pads were made in Mexico. Guess that's better than made in China.
 
Thanks for this write up. I know it is old, but I just used it. Changed pads and rotors for less than the brake shop wanted to do just pads. Your write up made it easy. The hardest part was putting the wheels back on.
 
madmaths said:
nice write up!! maybe its a dumb question but on the retaining clip no need to put any grease? thanks
Click to expand...

I use a little Anti Seize Grease on the anti rattle clips and the caliper pins. Also a good idea to use loctite on the caliper bolts.
 
As for the front brakes, do the caliper bolts also use an 18mm wrench?

Edit: Looks like the rear is 18mm and the front is 21mm.
 
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Eddie,

Thank's for the write up. I did my both ends yesterday Dealer wanted close to $500 each side including rotors. I did not see any reason to change the rotors so i did just the pads.
On another hand i hand some of you may recall my front axel seal leak where i was saying after they did the job strange squeaky noise appeared. I took it back and the found nothing other then an idea of my shocks being squeaky. So yesterday when i removed the caliper i found outer pad did not have bottom clip that holds the pad in place.I am attaching picture of it.
Any way Thanks again.IMG_6835.jpgIMG_6842.jpg
 
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