How long should my sway bar links be?

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lime-green-porcupine

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I have a stock JKU (sport) and I need new sway bar links. I’d like to get disconnects but there is little information on how long they should be. The stock unit was tiny — about 4-5” tops.

But I see you can but very long or even adjustable replacements.

I’m looking for speed — we hit the trail with three kids and sway bar D/C takes forever! I don’t really care about looks, I’m happy with simple black steel.

Any advice for a newbie?

thanks!
 
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lime-green-porcupine said:
I have a stock JKU (sport) and I need new sway bar links. I’d like to get disconnects but there is little information on how long they should be. The stock unit was tiny — about 4-5” tops.

But I see you can but very long or even adjustable replacements.

I’m looking for speed — we hit the trail with three kids and sway bar D/C takes forever! I don’t really care about looks, I’m happy with simple black steel.

Any advice for a newbie?

thanks!
Click to expand...
Best and fastest option is this…
Links should be long enough to not over extend at a full flex. Typically, about 5 deg or so above the frame rails.
 
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wayoflife said:
Best and fastest option is this…
Links should be long enough to not over extend at a full flex. Typically, about 5 deg or so above the frame rails.
Click to expand...
This is the best and quickest solution for sure.

If you can’t find a used Rubicon sway bar like me though haha, something like the JKS or Synergy quick disconnects are the next best thing for a Sport as you pull a pin and can mount them upward. Can be tricky to mount again though, need somewhat level ground or someone to shake the Jeep as you realign them. They specifically make them for stock height or lifted height since they’re adjustable.

I think @RESURECTIONJK has some other ones too that might be worth looking at if money ISN’T a concern and you plan on leaving it stock for a while. Apex something or other I think they’re called.
 
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DirtHeadDavis said:
This is the best and quickest solution for sure.

If you can’t find a used Rubicon sway bar like me though haha, something like the JKS or Synergy quick disconnects are the next best thing for a Sport as you pull a pin and can mount them upward. Can be tricky to mount again though, need somewhat level ground or someone to shake the Jeep as you realign them. They specifically make them for stock height or lifted height since they’re adjustable.

I think @RESURECTIONJK has some other ones too that might be worth looking at if money ISN’T a concern and you plan on leaving it stock for a while. Apex something or other I think they’re called.
Click to expand...
I actually did get a used Rubi sway bar, which is what stated this. I put it on and the links are double the length of what I had, and the bushing(?) at the end is shot and needs to be replaced. So were my old ones.

I haven’t decided what method I want to use to actuate the rubicon disconnect yet. What have you done?

But I need new links anyway So I figure what’s wrong with two ways to disconnect the sway?
 
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lime-green-porcupine said:
I actually did get a used Rubi sway bar, which is what stated this. I put it on and the links are double the length of what I had, and the bushing(?) at the end is shot and needs to be replaced. So were my old ones.

I haven’t decided what method I want to use to actuate the rubicon disconnect yet. What have you done?

But I need new links anyway So I figure what’s wrong with two ways to disconnect the sway?
Click to expand...
Well heck, if you already have an e-disco, there is ZERO need for something like a JKS or otherwise. Simply get links to replace what came with the one you have and call it a day. How much lift you have will determine how long your links need to be.
 
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wayoflife said:
Well heck, if you already have an e-disco, there is ZERO need for something like a JKS or otherwise. Simply get links to replace what came with the one you have and call it a day. How much lift you have will determine how long your links need to be.
Click to expand...
I looked at the hand crank option for the thing but man would I really like to have a button inside. Have you ever used any aftermarket stuff to get the disconnect to actuate?
 
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lime-green-porcupine said:
I looked at the hand crank option for the thing but man would I really like to have a button inside. Have you ever used any aftermarket stuff to get the disconnect to actuate?
Click to expand...
It literally takes seconds to disengage or re-engage the sway bar with the knob and you don't have to be on level ground to do it. As nice as something like a JKS is, you still need to be on level ground to do this AND you need to figure out how to store your sway bar arm up in place.

But, if you really want something that works with the touch of a button, this will do the trick.
evomfg.com

NO LIMITS ON-DEMAND RUBICON SWAY BAR DISCONNECT JK/JL/JT

EVO No Limits On Demand JK/JL/JT Rubicon Swaybar DisconnectThe factory JK/JKU Rubicon swaybar disconnect is a great feature, but is prone to failure, shorting out and all around being annoying. The EVO No Limits On Demand allows you to defeat the troublesome computer system that operates this...
evomfg.com evomfg.com
 
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wayoflife said:
It literally takes seconds to disengage or re-engage the sway bar with the knob and you don't have to be on level ground to do it. As nice as something like a JKS is, you still need to be on level ground to do this AND you need to figure out how to store your sway bar arm up in place.

But, if you really want something that works with the touch of a button, this will do the trick.
evomfg.com

NO LIMITS ON-DEMAND RUBICON SWAY BAR DISCONNECT JK/JL/JT

EVO No Limits On Demand JK/JL/JT Rubicon Swaybar DisconnectThe factory JK/JKU Rubicon swaybar disconnect is a great feature, but is prone to failure, shorting out and all around being annoying. The EVO No Limits On Demand allows you to defeat the troublesome computer system that operates this...
evomfg.com evomfg.com
Click to expand...
Ok ok ok I’ll try the knob! Haha thank you
 
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lime-green-porcupine said:
I looked at the hand crank option for the thing but man would I really like to have a button inside. Have you ever used any aftermarket stuff to get the disconnect to actuate?
Click to expand...
One minute you talk about wanting quick disconnects then you say you don't want the screw knob because you want something inside. How were you planning to disconnect eh quick disconnects?
 
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OverlanderJK said:
One minute you talk about wanting quick disconnects then you say you don't want the screw knob because you want something inside. How were you planning to disconnect eh quick disconnects?
Click to expand...
Two projects, haha. Or two angles of the same project. This years upgrade is the sway bar, because last year was my first year and disconnecting the sway bar with wrenches takes an eternity when you have 3 hungry kids in the Jeep.

I got the used sway bar but the end links are shot. So I need to get new ones, but the factory replacements are just as expensive as aftermarket. So my initial query was related to the end links I need to buy. The bar that came off my Sport had super short links and the links on the rubicon bar were over twice as long -- but maybe the donor was lifted? There's no way for me to know.

But I did get the sway bar and I do want a disconnect inside, if I can get it. I don't yet have an on-board compressor, just a portable 5cfm model, so the air actuator doesn't fit. The JKS "Quicker Disconnect" set is about the same price as the Mopar part -- so I'll get those.

I'm actually eying the process of the dealer upgrade to the full electronic sway disconnect, but that may have to wait for another season because the harness, switch, and ECM programmer are another $450 -- but that was my absolute favorite part of driving the rubicon rentals.

Ramble ramble ramble...
 
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lime-green-porcupine said:
The JKS "Quicker Disconnect" set is about the same price as the Mopar part -- so I'll get those.
Click to expand...
Then why did you get a Rubicon sway bar? If you’d pay all that money to have a switch installed at the dealer, get factory length links (they’ll literally say they’re for stock height in the description) and then get the EVO No Limits which is actually HALF the price of the JKS or something like them.

Plus a factory switch would reconnect the sway bar at 25mph so you can’t bomb the desert comfortably.


IMG_5696.png
$24 for each…

IMG_5697.png
Half the price of JKS quick disconnects…
 
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DirtHeadDavis said:
Look at my edited post… nothing you need is expensive.
Click to expand...
Oh that's a great price on links! Everything I'd seen online was $70/ea. Thank you!

The expensive parts I was talking about are the mopar harness and switch for the factory style disconnect. The dealer installed style swaybar disconnect requires:

- Sway bar ✅
- Wiring harness ~$140 shipped
- Button for the dash - $115 shipped
- Some ECU tweaks, which seems like it'll cost $30-40 for some computer software.

But to be clear, that's a project for another year!

It seems like eventually I'll need the ECU tweak if I want to get bigger tires too, and I'm trying to build out replacement parts as I can which are good for "up to 2in lift" -- I bought shocks to replace the factory shocks for that last year.

I don't really know why I would want a sway bar disconnect over 20mph -- but then I'm new at Jeeps, and I'm tinkering. I come from a world of drag racing beat up old muscle cars, it's pretty different in here, but it's way more family friendly than sitting at the track all day!
 
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Far as I know you can’t connect rubicon sway bar to a factory switch. I went down this road years ago. It’s all integrated into the canbus/ecu on a rubicon and that’s not there on a sport.

Also, you can buy the trailer wiring harness for like $20 on Amazon. Not sure what that does for the sway bar though.
 
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Why does the Rubicon sway bar need to be tied in to the computer? Just rig up a switch that activates the disconnect motor. Or get the cable disconnect that runs up inside the cab.

As to what speed you can run with or without a sway bar, that’s subjective. I’ve been running without a sway bar for close to two years because I’ve been too lazy and cheap to fix it.
 
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wayoflife said:
It literally takes seconds to disengage or re-engage the sway bar with the knob and you don't have to be on level ground to do it. As nice as something like a JKS is, you still need to be on level ground to do this AND you need to figure out how to store your sway bar arm up in place.

But, if you really want something that works with the touch of a button, this will do the trick.
evomfg.com

NO LIMITS ON-DEMAND RUBICON SWAY BAR DISCONNECT JK/JL/JT

EVO No Limits On Demand JK/JL/JT Rubicon Swaybar DisconnectThe factory JK/JKU Rubicon swaybar disconnect is a great feature, but is prone to failure, shorting out and all around being annoying. The EVO No Limits On Demand allows you to defeat the troublesome computer system that operates this...
evomfg.com evomfg.com
Click to expand...

I bought and mounted the knob, and now the sway bar clicks randomly, somewhat Unpredictably. Sometime when I turn, sometimes when I hit a small bump. It’s not reliable but it’s the only change I think could have the cause.

The knob came with a washer and instructions to put the washer in the actuator hole before mounting the knob. I followed the manual, but I didn’t see anything like that in your video. I assume the washer is either a spacer to increase spring force. Did you install a spacer?
 
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GP NOIR said:
Why does the Rubicon sway bar need to be tied in to the computer? Just rig up a switch that activates the disconnect motor. Or get the cable disconnect that runs up inside the cab.
Click to expand...
It only needs to be tied to the computer IF you want to use the factory switch to make it work.
lime-green-porcupine said:
I bought and mounted the knob, and now the sway bar clicks randomly, somewhat Unpredictably. Sometime when I turn, sometimes when I hit a small bump. It’s not reliable but it’s the only change I think could have the cause.

The knob came with a washer and instructions to put the washer in the actuator hole before mounting the knob. I followed the manual, but I didn’t see anything like that in your video. I assume the washer is either a spacer to increase spring force. Did you install a spacer?
Click to expand...
Sounds like the gears inside the disconnect are not fully engaging. I did NOT install the washer in question and wonder if maybe it's preventing full engagement. Did you test the disconnect by hand on the bench or on your Jeep to see if it's working properly? As in, remove one link (driver side is easiest), lock the disconnect and see if it rotates and then unlock it to see if it moves?
 
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