3.6L Water pump replacement

So I wasn't able to find any info on this anywhere and was under a time crunch so I didn't take them time to take proper pictures for a good write up so let it be know that I would not consider this a full write up, but instead, a rough guide at best.

First make sure the engine is cool. Next remove the coolant reservoir by simply lifting it out of the notches that hold it in place and pop the hose out of the clips and off the radiator by the radiator cap. Next remove the air intake hose to give you some room to work. It has two bolts and two clamps.

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You can now drain the radiator either by disconnecting the lower hose that goes to the water pump or by using the petcock drain valve on the bottom passenger side of the radiator. Either way you need to disconnect the radiator and heater core hoses from the water pump. They are located directly right of the crank pulley and below the water pump pulley.

Next you'll need to remove the serpentine belt. There are instructions out there for this but it's not hard. Simple put a big ratchet or breaker bar into the square hole in the tensioner then turn clockwise to compress the little shock and take tension off the belt.

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It is a little difficult to hold pressure on the tensioner and slip the belt off, so having someone help would make it easier. I held the ratchet on the tensioner with one hand and slipped the belt off the power steering pulley with the other. Once you get it off one pulley you can let the tensioner go and leave the belt there for now.

Next, you'll need to remove the alternator and it's mount. I disconnected the negative end to the battery just to be safe. There are two bolts in the top of the alternator on either side and then two bolts on the mount. I don't think you need to remove the smaller bolts on the alternator directly under the first two but I can't remember.

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After the bolts are out you can set the alternator up out of the way. Then pull the serpentine belt off all the other pulleys and set it aside.

Then remove the two idler pulleys that were behind the alternator on each side. I think you have to remove both but I can't remember for sure. I know for sure that the right one has to come off.

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The other is behind the alternator mount in this picture. Again sorry for not taking pictures for a proper write up.

Next is taking the water pump itself off. There should be 9 bolts left holding the water pump one. Three bolts should already be removed at this point.

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This picture of my new water pump might help you find all the bolts.

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Once the bolts are all out simply pull on the pump to break the gasket free and the removal part is done.

Now clean off the mounting location on the engine block. I used a razor blade, cloth and water.

Next, take your new water pump gasket and put place it on the new pump, making sure that the raised part go out from the inside of the pump allowing more room for the fins inside the pump. I used a few bolts to hold it in place. Place it back into its spot and work the process in reverse.

I couldn't find torque specs for the bolts but they weren't on super tight before so I just did the old tight and a tiny bit more method and checked for leaks after.

You can google a serpentine belt diagram if you need it.

Obviously you'll need to fill it back up with coolant and go through that process. I also added in a coolant flush process for good measure. There are guides out there for both of those processes.

Again this isn't a write up, but more of a rough guide simply because there's nothing else out there that I could find. I hope it helps. If you have questions you can message me.
 
Thanks! This will help alot. I have the "whining" water pump/idle pulley noise at idle after 30 mins of driving. Hoping this will do the trick.
 
This was really helpful but im still a little stuck i pulled out all the bolts without looking to see which length bolts go where and also ended up removing a couple of bolts i didnt need to. Rookie mistakes... is there a more in depth write up anywhere?
 
Great photos! The major problem is gaining access to the lower six bolts on the pump. The space is so tight that each bolt must be turned counterclockwise in micro twists whle you are on your back with arm movement resricted by suspension components. Your neck muscles will hurt.

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