Wanting to upgrade to Dynatrac 60/80's W/40's or Equivalent. Advice please!

I didn't realize that you have a Rubicon. That being the case, YES, the 44s will handle 38's just fine. I ran that setup with 5.13s and it's a perfect setup. Save BIG TIME money going that route and really, it's all you really need.
Technically it’s an overland with the m210/m220 set up (if that makes a difference). I did after market ARB’s with 4:88 gears. Any lead on the 38 trail grapplers? Thanks for your time Eddie.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Technically it’s an overland with the m210/m220 set up. I did after market ARB’s with 4:88 gears. Any lead on the 38 trail grapplers? Thanks for your time Eddie.
Okay, you're still set. 4.88's will be a little tall for 38's and but I don't think you'll feel too much power loss and they'll probably get you better mpg.

As far as lead on tires go, I would contact Discount Tire here on the forum. (y)
 
Ok, another dilemma. I don't know anything about tire offsets, etc as far as what the difference will be. I understand the more negative the further the wheel gets pushed away but that's about it. I tried searching for a visualizer so I can get an idea but haven't had any luck. What will be the difference as far as stance with these two set ups.

Current Wheel:

Black Rhino Armory
20"x12.5"
-44mm Offset
4.70 Backspacing
13.5" Patagonia

Wanted Wheel:

KMC Tank
17"x9"
-15mm Offset
4.41 Backspacing
12.5" Ridge Grappler
 
I didn't realize that you have a Rubicon. That being the case, YES, the 44s will handle 38's just fine. I ran that setup with 5.13s and it's a perfect setup. Save BIG TIME money going that route and really, it's all you really need.

I think this is the way I'm going to go. In talks with Disciple Off road about procuring parts. I feel like this will be a happy medium without going completely overboard for that random "what if" situation. Thank you for the referrals. Also talking with Don at discount tire. He's been tremendously helpful as well. Good stuff.
 

Disciple Off Road

Active Member
Ok, another dilemma. I don't know anything about tire offsets, etc as far as what the difference will be. I understand the more negative the further the wheel gets pushed away but that's about it. I tried searching for a visualizer so I can get an idea but haven't had any luck. What will be the difference as far as stance with these two set ups.

Current Wheel:

Black Rhino Armory
20"x12.5"
-44mm Offset
4.70 Backspacing
13.5" Patagonia

Wanted Wheel:

KMC Tank
17"x9"
-15mm Offset
4.41 Backspacing
12.5" Ridge Grappler
The KMC Tank Beadlocks are a -38 offset/3.5 backspacing so they will be pushed out more than your current wheels which should be at 4.75 backspacing.

Edit: I guess you can get the Tanks in a -15 offset if you wanted
 

jorgelrod

Active Member
I think this is the way I'm going to go. In talks with Disciple Off road about procuring parts. I feel like this will be a happy medium without going completely overboard for that random "what if" situation. Thank you for the referrals. Also talking with Don at discount tire. He's been tremendously helpful as well. Good stuff.
I'm going to post based on my experience with my JK, I also live in Florida and I had a ProRock44 Front and 37's I played in many of the off road parks close to FL including Windrock. Unless you are 1) Abusive on the Skinny Pedal 2) Unable to say to yourself, it's time to stop and pull cable because I have to drive it back home, the 44 and 37/38 with up to a 5.13 should be just fine. This doesn't take into account unexpected situations where a tire might get wedged between rocks or something like that, but then again, even a D60 would probably blow a U-joint in a similar situation.

As most have said, the real tipping point is going to 40's, that's when tons are a must except on SEMA builds
 
Big thanks to @Discount Tire . I paid for my 38 ridge grapplers on Friday and they were here on Saturday. Thanks Don!

Also huge thanks to @Disciple Off Road. Jeremy was a big help, answered 100 questions and prepped an order for me. I can't wait to get this stuff for my jeep.

@wayoflife is there a good place, other than directly to manufacturer, for decals? I'd like to put a few on my jeep like Evo, Discount Tire, Nitro, Disciple, etc. Thank you for answer my PM's.
 
I'm going to post based on my experience with my JK, I also live in Florida and I had a ProRock44 Front and 37's I played in many of the off road parks close to FL including Windrock. Unless you are 1) Abusive on the Skinny Pedal 2) Unable to say to yourself, it's time to stop and pull cable because I have to drive it back home, the 44 and 37/38 with up to a 5.13 should be just fine. This doesn't take into account unexpected situations where a tire might get wedged between rocks or something like that, but then again, even a D60 would probably blow a U-joint in a similar situation.

As most have said, the real tipping point is going to 40's, that's when tons are a must except on SEMA builds
Thank you for your response. I decided to stay with 38's, but build up the 44's with trusses, gussets, new knuckles, axle shafts, etc. Now it'll handle the speed bumps at the mall much, much better.
 

Ddays

Hooked
@wayoflife is there a good place, other than directly to manufacturer, for decals? I'd like to put a few on my jeep like Evo, Discount Tire, Nitro, Disciple, etc. Thank you for answer my PM's.

carstickers.com

Send a pdf of whatever you want and they can make it in any size & color you want. Look online for pdf's or some manufacturers will even send you the file if you ask.
 

jwolfejt

Member
Honestly, I wouldn't bother with the trusses and gussets. Iron knuckles and shafts are a good idea.
You don't feel trusses help beef up axle tubes ? The main issue I've seen on current stock axles is the axles bending (aside from ring gears/pinions) right around where the fad mounts, wouldn't a good truss setup help eliminate/reduce this break point ? My main reason for not upgrading to 1 ton's now is 1) no one seems to have any 2) wheels and tires would be a must (i mean why stick with 37's if your going to 1 ton axles) and that alone will add up well around $5k+ ontop of everything else. I think it would just be silly to have 1 ton's with a small lift and 37's - i'd rather focus on a better suspension setup and then when i break axles have an excuse to go that route. From what i've seen of the build of Jet you seemed to fair really well with the prorock 44 front (I haven't heard of anyone breaking rear dana 44's (aside from ring and pinions - but even that seems to happen more so on the front axle)).
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
You don't feel trusses help beef up axle tubes ? The main issue I've seen on current stock axles is the axles bending (aside from ring gears/pinions) right around where the fad mounts, wouldn't a good truss setup help eliminate/reduce this break point ? My main reason for not upgrading to 1 ton's now is 1) no one seems to have any 2) wheels and tires would be a must (i mean why stick with 37's if your going to 1 ton axles) and that alone will add up well around $5k+ ontop of everything else. I think it would just be silly to have 1 ton's with a small lift and 37's - i'd rather focus on a better suspension setup and then when i break axles have an excuse to go that route. From what i've seen of the build of Jet you seemed to fair really well with the prorock 44 front (I haven't heard of anyone breaking rear dana 44's (aside from ring and pinions - but even that seems to happen more so on the front axle)).
I can only go off of what I have personally seen and experienced and that is, Rubicon JL/JT axles have been holding up exceptionally well. I have not seen the kind of bending that was very common on JK's. This is not to say that I haven't seen axle bends or breaks but the ones that did bend or break were on Jeep being driving by morons or were in a crash. What I have also seen is my fair share of axle that were bent DUE TO having a truss welded on. But hey, that's just me.
 

Docbob

New member
I'm looking to make the rig as bullet proof as possible for future adventures. I live in Florida so I don't have a ton of rock crawling possibilities except a few off road parks. I do plan on traveling out to the west coast and tons of places in between in the future. I want to be ready for whatever trail I find myself on as much as possible. So, with that said...

I am currently running a 4" lift with 37's. I will be going to 40's with the axle upgrade.

My shop quoted me for Dynatrac 60/80 set up with 538 gears, ARB lockers (already have compressor and currently running ARBs), new drive shafts and steering assist. The also are suggesting the anti rock sway bar, rear only.

I do have a couple of questions:

1) Smaller or larger axle width?
2) Beadlocks or non beadlocks?
3) Which brand of wheel? KMC? I was thinking in the 20" size but can't decide on offset. Also want to get trail grapplers probably in 13.5 width, maybe 15.5.
4) While I'm doing this are there any other upgrades I should do under the jeep?
5) Do I need a larger lift than the 4"?
6) Anything else I'm missing or not thinking of?
7) Any alternatives to Dynatrac that is worth a damn?

I am a buy once cry once type of guy and just want it done right. TIA.

EDIT #1: I want to go up to 40's which is started this rabbit hole lol.
EDIT #2: Added some extra details to clarify some questions below.

View attachment 377045
Dont forget your steering, pcs steering big box. If you don't want hydraulics yet, you can still get box that is ready for future add. Then look at steer smart track bars drag link and tie rods they are monsters compared to other company's. Nice build have fun with your build, must feel like a kid in candy store👍
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Dont for get your steering pcs steering box. If you don't want hydraulics yet, you can still get box that is ready for future add. Then look at steer smart track bars drag link and tie rods they are monsters compared to other company's. Nice build have fun with your build, must feel like a kid in candy store👍
A PSC steering box is definitely a good buy but Steer Smart can suck it especially after the way they came on here and unapologetically behaved the way they did.

 

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
A PSC steering box is definitely a good buy but Steer Smart can suck it especially after the way they came on here and unapologetically behaved the way they did.

Not to mention their products are trash. I don’t care if it’s bigger it it breaks. I think I have seen more after smart breaks and issues than I have with factory crap.
 
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