Stock 2008 JKU front driveshaft U-joint

I believe it's 1330 as well. If you find a way to get it out, please post a write up. The u joint is crimped in from what I can tell, not held in place with snap rings and I can't get it out. I've got a 1330 sealed spicer sitting in my garage and can't put it in. I've basically come to the point of having to buy a $400 driveshaft to replace a $25 part. So if you've got any tricks on how to remove a crimped in u joint, please share, you'll save me a ton of money.
 
Pretty sure the front U joint is pressed in and you'd either need to buy a bearing press or remove the shaft and hit it with a big hammer hard maybe some rust penetrant and let sit before you start hitting it
 
Jay1st said:
Damn, I did not know it was crimped..........that's why I could not see the clips and I thought they were covered in rust and grim........


That is bad news so maybe I'll have to buy a new driveshaft
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Yeah I didn't know either. The most competitively priced quality driveshaft I have found is Adams. For $379 you get a 1310 DS and the T case flange you need to install it. I got a quote from a local DS shop and they quoted me $375 to build one, but I would still have to buy the flange.

I really don't want to replace the whole thing but I may have to. My U joint isn't all the way out but it does have quite a bit of movement and is causing a little driveline vibration between 55 and 65 MPH.
 
Wethy said:
Pretty sure the front U joint is pressed in and you'd either need to buy a bearing press or remove the shaft and hit it with a big hammer hard maybe some rust penetrant and let sit before you start hitting it
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Bummer. I took my spare U joint with me on my offroad trip last weekend hoping I could get lucky enough to have it come apart on the trail then it would be an easy swap. But no luck. I've looked everywhere for a write up on how to get them out and haven't been able to find one.
 
OkstateJK said:
I believe it's 1330 as well. If you find a way to get it out, please post a write up. The u joint is crimped in from what I can tell, not held in place with snap rings and I can't get it out. I've got a 1330 sealed spicer sitting in my garage and can't put it in. I've basically come to the point of having to buy a $400 driveshaft to replace a $25 part. So if you've got any tricks on how to remove a crimped in u joint, please share, you'll save me a ton of money.
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You can usually borrow a u joint press/ball joint press (same tool, ball joints just use the cups) from any of the auto parts stores. It may cost a deposit but you will get it back as long as you return the tool. I have not messed with the ujoints on the driveshaft on the JKs yet but on other shafts there is either a ring on the outside of the caps, a c clip on the inside of the caps or if your lucky full circle clips on the inside of the caps. Though I dont know that there are full circle clips on driveshaft ujoints. A lot of factory ujoints are held in with a glue/wax, you can apply a little heat to get this to melt and it will make the removal of them easier.

I have had to also cut a u joint cross piece apart with a chop saw and then hammer the caps in. There was no flange on the other side though, so it was easy to get to the ujoint with the chop saw.
 
mudmobeeler said:
You can usually borrow a u joint press/ball joint press (same tool, ball joints just use the cups) from any of the auto parts stores. It may cost a deposit but you will get it back as long as you return the tool. I have not messed with the ujoints on the driveshaft on the JKs yet but on other shafts there is either a ring on the outside of the caps, a c clip on the inside of the caps or if your lucky full circle clips on the inside of the caps. Though I dont know that there are full circle clips on driveshaft ujoints. A lot of factory ujoints are held in with a glue/wax, you can apply a little heat to get this to melt and it will make the removal of them easier.

I have had to also cut a u joint cross piece apart with a chop saw and then hammer the caps in. There was no flange on the other side though, so it was easy to get to the ujoint with the chop saw.
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Hmm, I may have to try this. I guess the worst thing that can happen is that I end up ruining it and have to buy a new DS which is where I am right now with it anyway.

I think I will wait til my tax return comes in before dropping the DS. That way if it doesn't work, I can order the Adams and get the DS back on quickly. I just rented a ball joint press to swap ball joints so I have at least used one before. I also have a chop saw. I will take pics and if it works, I will do a write up on it.
 
OkstateJK said:
Hmm, I may have to try this. I guess the worst thing that can happen is that I end up ruining it and have to buy a new DS which is where I am right now with it anyway.

I think I will wait til my tax return comes in before dropping the DS. That way if it doesn't work, I can order the Adams and get the DS back on quickly. I just rented a ball joint press to swap ball joints so I have at least used one before. I also have a chop saw. I will take pics and if it works, I will do a write up on it.
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I've used the ball joint press many of times and it's worked. Even with the factory glue/wax and not heating it up, the press has worked. I don't know why it wouldn't work on the one I had to cut out, I even heated it and the wax oozed out. It wouldn't budge. Even after I cut it out, it took a while before the ujoint caps finally budged. I thought I was gonna need a new driveshaft before I was done. Lol.
 
Can you do a full write up and post some pics? I just did both axle u-Joints on my 08, major PITA!
 
Have you tried calling your local driveshaft company? I had a driveshaft issue a a guy that owned a driveshaft company here in the area worked miracles.
 
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