Oh-confusia… what to do?

jnabird333

jnabird333

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Many of you know I recently purchased a second Jeep for my wife to daily drive. It was build more than what would be ideal for this task, but the price was right and she wouldn’t have allowed it to remain stock anyway. ;)

This Jeep has a “built” D30: Sleeves, Gussets, E-Locker, 4.88 gear, and RCV shafts. Unfortunately, this axle has been nothing but trouble. I had to redo the gear setup because it was done WAY wrong, and ever since I have had trouble getting the driver’s side seal to stop leaking. (Had it apart 4 times :grayno: ) It is now down to an ever so slow leak. (One drop every other day or so in the shop). I think the housing is bent, and likely from the mods that were done poorly.

The options and source of confusion: (remember her Jeep is supposed to be a DD and mine the toy)
1- Purchase a PR44 for her Jeep and sell the D30 parts
2- Purchase a PR44 for my JKUR and move my Rubi44 to her Jeep.
3- Score a cheap D30 housing and put the good parts in it. (some here have offered their D30 housings for a fair price)

My plan was to run my Rubi44 until I saved enough coin for D60s but the more I think about it the PR44 might be all I would ever need. I am pretty good at keeping off the skinny pedal and never do anything fast like you guys near the desert. The main reason I was thinking D60 is I want a full float rear, and my OCD has issues with a D44/D60 combo.

Sorry so long winded… Thoughts?
 
just my :twocents: but i would swap your 44 over to her 2 door and get either a PR44, PR44/60 hybrid, or a PR60 for your jeep.
 
cozdude said:
just my :twocents: but i would swap your 44 over to her 2 door and get either a PR44, PR44/60 hybrid, or a PR60 for your jeep.
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Yea, I'm leaning this way... I kinda feel pressured to make a decision as my winter project is gears and hydraulic assist on mine. There is no since in buying 5.13 gears and welding brackets if the axle is leaving the Jeep.
 
If i was in your situation, I would swap your D44 over and get a PR for yours. Both end up stronger!
 
jnabird333 said:
Many of you know I recently purchased a second Jeep for my wife to daily drive. It was build more than what would be ideal for this task, but the price was right and she wouldn’t have allowed it to remain stock anyway. ;)

This Jeep has a “built” D30: Sleeves, Gussets, E-Locker, 4.88 gear, and RCV shafts. Unfortunately, this axle has been nothing but trouble. I had to redo the gear setup because it was done WAY wrong, and ever since I have had trouble getting the driver’s side seal to stop leaking. (Had it apart 4 times :grayno: ) It is now down to an ever so slow leak. (One drop every other day or so in the shop). I think the housing is bent, and likely from the mods that were done poorly.

The options and source of confusion: (remember her Jeep is supposed to be a DD and mine the toy)
1- Purchase a PR44 for her Jeep and sell the D30 parts
2- Purchase a PR44 for my JKUR and move my Rubi44 to her Jeep.
3- Score a cheap D30 housing and put the good parts in it. (some here have offered their D30 housings for a fair price)

My plan was to run my Rubi44 until I saved enough coin for D60s but the more I think about it the PR44 might be all I would ever need. I am pretty good at keeping off the skinny pedal and never do anything fast like you guys near the desert. The main reason I was thinking D60 is I want a full float rear, and my OCD has issues with a D44/D60 combo.

Sorry so long winded… Thoughts?
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Based on what you listed above and the level of wheeling you have stated I would be inclined to go with option #2.....you could sell the D30 as a whole or parts to supplement the cost of the PR44 for your rig.......and you may only need to run a Trail 60 semi-float in the rear.......the PR44/Trail60 combo would handle up to a 37" tire which should suffice......this is a setup I have been looking into doing myself sometime in the Spring.....

~Woodrow~
 
Just my opinion, but really the last thing you'd want to do is buy yet another boat anchor (D30), especially a used one. I'd part the current D30 to offset the cost of a new PR44 or 60 if you have the space and time to do so.
 
Thanks all.... part of my hang up is the thinks that won't get done if I do the PR route.

You see, her Jeep originally had a cage in it (that we both want) but upon investigation it was held in with bubble-gum and zip ties (not really, but close). It was so bad that I put it back to stock because I actually think the stock structure was stronger. I really want to get a cage back in her Jeep. Not so much for trail use but for the road. I am aware of three Jeep buds flipping in minor accidents this year driving to/from work.

Being so close to the holidays I can't make all of it happen....
 
jnabird333 said:
Thanks all.... part of my hang up is the thinks that won't get done if I do the PR route.

You see, her Jeep originally had a cage in it (that we both want) but upon investigation it was held in with bubble-gum and zip ties (not really, but close). It was so bad that I put it back to stock because I actually think the stock structure was stronger. I really want to get a cage back in her Jeep. Not so much for trail use but for the road. I am aware of three Jeep buds flipping in minor accidents this year driving to/from work.

Being so close to the holidays I can't make all of it happen....
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install your rockhard that still in the box into her jeep then since you may never get around to installing it in yours. see problem solved! :crazyeyes: :cheesy:
 
cozdude said:
install your rockhard that still in the box into her jeep then since you may never get around to installing it in yours. see problem solved! :crazyeyes: :cheesy:
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I know, I know, I'm a slacker :D

I actually thought about this but can't... The previous cage install attempt hacked the door area (where it bolts) too badly. I think I'm going to fab my own for the front (making new dash perches like the RH but mounting with rosette welds.) Then get the Synergy rear kit.

DOM tube is crazy expensive!
 
Im no expert. But IMO the PR44 should go in yours and your D44 should go im her DD. just makes more sense to me.
 
jnabird333 said:
Many of you know I recently purchased a second Jeep for my wife to daily drive. It was build more than what would be ideal for this task, but the price was right and she wouldn’t have allowed it to remain stock anyway. ;)

This Jeep has a “built” D30: Sleeves, Gussets, E-Locker, 4.88 gear, and RCV shafts. Unfortunately, this axle has been nothing but trouble. I had to redo the gear setup because it was done WAY wrong, and ever since I have had trouble getting the driver’s side seal to stop leaking. (Had it apart 4 times :grayno: ) It is now down to an ever so slow leak. (One drop every other day or so in the shop). I think the housing is bent, and likely from the mods that were done poorly.

The options and source of confusion: (remember her Jeep is supposed to be a DD and mine the toy)
1- Purchase a PR44 for her Jeep and sell the D30 parts
2- Purchase a PR44 for my JKUR and move my Rubi44 to her Jeep.
3- Score a cheap D30 housing and put the good parts in it. (some here have offered their D30 housings for a fair price)

My plan was to run my Rubi44 until I saved enough coin for D60s but the more I think about it the PR44 might be all I would ever need. I am pretty good at keeping off the skinny pedal and never do anything fast like you guys near the desert. The main reason I was thinking D60 is I want a full float rear, and my OCD has issues with a D44/D60 combo.

Sorry so long winded… Thoughts?
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Option 2 fo sho....unless your wife really needs a pro-rock.
 
NFRs2000NYC said:
Option 2 fo sho....unless your wife really needs a pro-rock.
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LOL for some reason your reply reminded me of this:


No she really doesn't need a PR44. She has 35s and I don't see that changing, unless she takes on my reject 37s. The Jeep will see some trail action, but pretty easy stuff close to home.
 
As you have said, your D30 is probably bent as that would explain a lot of things including your seal leak that you can't seem to get fixed. As others have mentioned, your best bet is to get a PR44 for your rig and swap your factory 44 onto hers. It makes the most sense and really, a PR44 will most likely be all that you need.

As far as cages go, they are great to have and I would be the first to recommend one but I would also be the first to say that the factory roll bar system is a lot stronger than most give it credit for. I personally wouldn't worry about getting one as a priority over an axle. A seal leak that you can't fix will eventually lead to the saturation of your brake pads and that would be a greater safety concern to me.
 
Okay so if I go with a PR44 for my rig, what locker? Is the new E-Locker good? My current on-board air set up is really only for filling tires. I haven't a single good reason as to why but I prefer electric over air....
 
jnabird333 said:
Okay so if I go with a PR44 for my rig, what locker? Is the new E-Locker good? My current on-board air set up is really only for filling tires. I haven't a single good reason as to why but I prefer electric over air....
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i would get the arb and your vlair could do both. all you would need is the little air tank like i have for my arb. the vlair would cycle till that tank is filled. once the switch is hit the air will activate the locker and the pressure that is created will keep it engaged. your compressor will not run while its locked (unless you have a leak). turn off the locker and the pressure will release and the locker will disengage.

edit- i prob didnt need to write it all out cause i know you know how it works but i just went with it lol
 
cozdude said:
i would get the arb and your vlair could do both. all you would need is the little air tank like i have for my arb. the vlair would cycle till that tank is filled. once the switch is hit the air will activate the locker and the pressure that is created will keep it engaged. your compressor will not run while its locked (unless you have a leak). turn off the locker and the pressure will release and the locker will disengage.

edit- i prob didnt need to write it all out cause i know you know how it works but i just went with it lol
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It's okay ;) I know how they work, yet there are still many things I don't know. I learn something here every day :yup:

For example: Does the ARB have any feedback on it's status like the stock locker?

I think the thing that trurns me off the most is the rework. An E-Locker would be more "plug-n-play" where an air locker will require me to rework my air and add valve controls (If I went this route I would eventuially change the rear as well). Starts to turn into a snow-ball. If it really works that much better, I don't mind the work, but don't like changes for the sake of changes... You know what I mean?
 
jnabird333 said:
It's okay ;) I know how they work, yet there are still many things I don't know. I learn something here every day :yup:

For example: Does the ARB have any feedback on it's status like the stock locker?

I think the thing that trurns me off the most is the rework. An E-Locker would be more "plug-n-play" where an air locker will require me to rework my air and add valve controls (If I went this route I would eventuially change the rear as well). Starts to turn into a snow-ball. If it really works that much better, I don't mind the work, but don't like changes for the sake of changes... You know what I mean?
Click to expand...

From what I understand, only the OEM locker will work like OEM. It still runs on canbus so an aftermaket elocker will still be "separate" just like the arb. It is not plug and play and won't work with the OEM switch.
 
I just looked at what "we" spent on Chrismas so far... :eek::eek::eek: I don't see a way around either living with the leak for a while of replaceing the housing :grayno:

I might even hold off on my mods until later in the spring. :naw:

Edit to add: I can only hope that the CC total reflects some awesome Jeep parts :) It's going to take most of the savings to pay it off this month!
 
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