Need some mod advice please

[Jern26]

So right now to sum it up, I have a '15 2dr jk sport, 2.5 coil lift, front bumper, winch, rock rails, extra lights, intake/exhaust.

Eventually (when I get some student loans paid off ) my end goal is 2.5-3.5" lift low slung with a lot of downtravel, using flat fenders to clear 35" tires, dynatrac PR 44s or g2 44's, front and rear, and locked (ox or arb). Was wondering some things that I could buy until then.

Jeep parts are extremely addictive as I've found, but I don't want to buy stuff that I'll unknowingly have to replace later! Going to get a rear bumper/tire carrier soon.
But other than that, I was thinking track bars, maybe drag link flip, skid plates... what about adjustable high clearance control arms?

any other random ideas from you professionals of mods that will be useful now, and not obsolete later? I'm still learning this stuff and open to any opinions!!! Thanks

 

[MR.Ty]

You can run 35s with very little lift. You don't need at drag link flip if you are under 3".

There is no rear PR44 and that's because the rear factory 44 is plenty strong and will support 35s fine. The biggest weak point in it are the hubs.

I wouldn't replace any of the factory skids, they are fairly good. You could add an oil pan, transmission and engine skid.

Have you measured your 2.5" lift to make sure it isn't giving you over 3"? I'd do that, and if it is look at getting new drive shafts since your boots will fail eventually.

 

[Jern26]

Drag link flip was more for tucking it up higher out of the way, insurance/piece of mind. Would it be a bad idea, or just unnecessary?

As far as the rear, from what I've researched if I were to get a 35 spline ARB, and 35 spline shafts, I'd be good to go.. change wheel bearings/seals while im in there too. Did I read that right or would I need more parts? I noticed most lockers specify "3.73 and higher ring" which I have 3.73s now so future re-gear would be good. Only thing that worried me was the tube wall thickness... And the horror stories of stock stuff on real trails haha.

And I never thought of measuring, I will soon!! Thankyou sir

 

[MR.Ty]

Drag link flip was more for tucking it up higher out of the way, insurance/piece of mind. Would it be a bad idea, or just unnecessary?

As far as the rear, from what I've researched if I were to get a 35 spline ARB, and 35 spline shafts, I'd be good to go.. change wheel bearings/seals while im in there too. Did I read that right or would I need more parts? I noticed most lockers specify "3.73 and higher ring" which I have 3.73s now so future re-gear would be good. Only thing that worried me was the tube wall thickness... And the horror stories of stock stuff on real trails haha.

And I never thought of measuring, I will soon!! Thankyou sir 

It does raise your DL higher but the bracket makes contact with the frame when you are flexing, that is why you need 3" bump stops with a DL flip. You would be better off getting a better tie-rod since that will be the first thing you hit if you are not watching where you are placing your tires.

Yes you should be good to go with the 35 spline ARB and matching shafts. The hubs may still bend, but if you get a set with a warranty or lift time guaranty you will only have to worry about actually replacing it. The tube diameter/thickness of a the rear 44 is fine, it's the front Rubicon 44 that has the same tubes as the D30.

 

[Jern26]

Good info, that does make s sense about dl flip. Thankyou!!

I measured, I'm at around 3+" total lift, any opinions on driveshaft manufacturers? I know to get a 1310, but as far as brands go I didn't notice any in WAL approved vendors.

I'm trying to get out of the quadratec/4wd magazines, after I've read more opinions and reviews on this forum! Price isn't as important to me as how a business treats people thanks again!