Lifting my LJ Rubicon

FastZach

New member
So I need help choosing a lift for my LJ. I know most of the members have JKs but some have had TJ/LJs in the past.

35" Tires is what I want to fit without getting new fenders.
This is my DD

My question is, long arm or no? 3.5" or 5.5"

I could do a 3.5" and a 1" body lift but if I go that route do I need a long arm? I hear long arms make a big difference on the LJ/TJ as where a JK it doesn't

I want to do it right the first time and not change it in a couple years.

Any help would be appreciated
 
If it was me, I would go 3.5" long arm, either Currie or Rock Krawler. I don't have any personal experience with them, but from the info I've heard, those would be my choices.
 
If it was me, I would go 3.5" long arm, either Currie or Rock Krawler. I don't have any personal experience with them, but from the info I've heard, those would be my choices.


I was looking at Rock Krawler as on option
 
Full traction has a badass triangulated three link for the LJ. I would go with the weld on truss for the rear.
 
If it was me, I would go 3.5" long arm, either Currie or Rock Krawler. I don't have any personal experience with them, but from the info I've heard, those would be my choices.

Does Currie make a long arm for the LJ? I know Savvy OffRoad has a sick short arm lift with currie arms but never heard of a long arm from them. I had an LJ with the TeraFlex 4" Longarm with the triangulated rear 4-link with a 1" body lift. I liked it on and offroad, minus the crappy teraflex shocks and joints. If I'd do it over again, I'd go to savvy offroad and get their 4" short arm lift with aluminum arms, rancho shocks or their tuned fox shocks and the aluminum belly armor with 1" body lift and 1" Motor Mount lift.
 
I'd go 3.5 and a small body lift. I personally run a 4" currie short arm and a 1.25" body lift with the stock driveshafts and 35s and it's great. If you're set on long arm, go with Rock krawler. They offer the high clearance arms which is a must for LJs since all other long arms that are straight hang too low.
 
I would consider Clayton,also. I prefer the arms to be lower than the driveshafts. Clayton also has a bomb proof warranty. Unless you are running high pinion diffs.
 
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