Leaking Front Pinion

BaddestCross

BaddestCross

Active Member
This one is new to me... How does one go about repairing this? Saw oil drops on the driveway, crawled under the Jeep and saw this:

20170529_172030.jpg

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Pretty easy fix. You just drop the shaft, remove the pinion nut, pry the seal out, tap the new one in and re-torque the pinion nut back to 160 ft/lbs, attach the shaft (if you want to get fancy you can rent a inch/lb torque wrench and check the rotating in/lb pressure before removing the nut). Get the Mopar seal from the dealership, I did this twice because I tried a cheap aftermarket seal and it leaked after I installed it due to crappy orange seal material.
 
Desert Crawler said:
I just did this repair last week. It is pretty easy as long as you have the tools. Google search it and you will find a few videos that walk you through the process.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...
Most of the videos I'm finding are for the rear or for d30s. Are the 44s the same procedure? I've read a couple things regarding checking torque specs, replacing the pinion nut, using extra lube or silicon... Internet tech pros frustrate me sometimes because they all jump in and tell each other they're full of shit.

How did you do it?
 
Jeepfan30 said:
Pretty easy fix. You just drop the shaft, remove the pinion nut, pry the seal out, tap the new one in and re-torque the pinion nut back to 160 ft/lbs, attach the shaft (if you want to get fancy you can rent a inch/lb torque wrench and check the rotating in/lb pressure before removing the nut). Get the Mopar seal from the dealership, I did this twice because I tried a cheap aftermarket seal and it leaked after I installed it due to crappy orange seal material.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that info. Is there anything I need to be aware of when dropping the shaft? Do I have to remove the back of it too or can I just unbolt the front and let it fall? (Gently, of course 😎)
 
BaddestCross said:
Most of the videos I'm finding are for the rear or for d30s. Are the 44s the same procedure? I've read a couple things regarding checking torque specs, replacing the pinion nut, using extra lube or silicon... Internet tech pros frustrate me sometimes because they all jump in and tell each other they're full of shit.

How did you do it?
Click to expand...

Add red rtv to the outside of the seal. The stuff they put on there seldom works and you'll end up changing it out again, as mentioned before. Watch the Adams driveshaft videos and they'll give you a pretty good idea about what to do when removing and reinstalling the yoke/flange.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
You should be able to remove just the front of the shaft leaving the rear connected. I also got a new pinion nut which may not always be necessary. But why chance future troubles over a few dollars?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Desert Crawler said:
You should be able to remove just the front of the shaft leaving the rear connected. I also got a new pinion nut which may not always be necessary. But why chance future troubles over a few dollars?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...
Did you do the torque test I've read about before disassembly or did you just torque to 160lbs and forget about it?

Also, did you use Loktite on the new pinion nut?
 
Granite_head said:
Add red rtv to the outside of the seal. The stuff they put on there seldom works and you'll end up changing it out again, as mentioned before. Watch the Adams driveshaft videos and they'll give you a pretty good idea about what to do when removing and reinstalling the yoke/flange.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...
Thanks. I'll look up that video. Red RTV as in high temp RTV?
 
Mine is doing the same thing front and rear after a complete axle rebuild and swap. So, the aftermarket seals suck?
 
Granite_head said:
Look and see if they're actually leaking from the inner part of the seal or the outer. Either way they have to be changed but I bet it's more about the quality of installation and not the quality of the seal.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

There is a clear difference in the quality of the seals, specifically the orange bead of sealant that fills the gap when you pound the seal in. The Yukon one I got on Amazon leaked, so I got one from Jeep dealer and very different build and seal quality.
 
Jeepfan30 said:
There is a clear difference in the quality of the seals, specifically the orange bead of sealant that fills the gap when you pound the seal in. The Yukon one I got on Amazon leaked, so I got one from Jeep dealer and very different build and seal quality.
Click to expand...

I don't doubt it, but I've also bought "Mopar" parts that lacked the quality of some aftermarket products. I know they're inner axle seals leave a lot to be desired. In any case you should always apply some rtv to the outside of a pinion seal. It's cheap insurance.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Mine that are leaking are Yukon & they are leaking from the outer part. I'll be replacing them with mopar seals and see how that goes. I'll also add a light coat of RTV.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
codyzx7 said:
Mine that are leaking are Yukon & they are leaking from the outer part. I'll be replacing them with mopar seals and see how that goes. I'll also add a light coat of RTV.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

This is not the RIGHT way to do it, but if it's leaking at the outer area, you could clean it really good with brakeclean and wipe some RTV on that area with your finger and give it a shot to see if it seals. There's no pressure there, it's just gravity. I've had a few transfer case hairline cracks that I've fixed this way with luck. Just an idea.
 
WJCO said:
This is not the RIGHT way to do it, but if it's leaking at the outer area, you could clean it really good with brakeclean and wipe some RTV on that area with your finger and give it a shot to see if it seals. There's no pressure there, it's just gravity. I've had a few transfer case hairline cracks that I've fixed this way with luck. Just an idea.
Click to expand...

What would be the "RIGHT" way to fix it?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom