Dynatrac 60 install

LAJK

Member
I’m currently in the process of installing dynatrac’s hardcore 60’s on my jk and have some questions.

1. What brake lines did others with dynatrac go with?
2. What gear fluid should I run once the break in period is up?
3. When breaking in the gears I’d assume that I drive with the front hubs locked so that the gears are spinning?
4. Being that the axles are 68.5” wide would I need to upgrade my psc ram for 6.5” stroke to an 8” stroke?

Never installed a set of 60’s before so I’m full of newbie questions.
 
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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I’m currently in the process of installing dynatrac’s hardcore 60’s on my jk and have some questions.

1. What brake lines did others with dynatrac go with?
2. What gear fluid should I run once the break in period is up?
3. When breaking in the gears I’d assume that I drive with the front hubs locked so that the gears are spinning?
4. Being that the axles are 68.5” wide would I need to upgrade my psc ram for 6.5” stroke to an 8” stroke?

Never installed a set of 60’s before so I’m full of newbie questions.

1. You need to get standard brake lines but ones that are long enough to accommodate the amount of lift and droop you have.
2. Depends on what lockers you have. If you got ARB's, you should ONLY use old school dino. If you got e-lockers, you can use synthetic. As far as weight goes, it depends on what gear ratio you got with them. 5.13's or 5.38's and I would say run a heavier weight at least in the rear.
3. Honestly, I would just concern yourself with breaking in the rear. Unless you're in 4WD, you're never really gonna be able to get the kind of break in that you'd otherwise be looking for up front.
4. That sounds about right to me.
 

wjtstudios

Hooked
Check out DDays build, he documented it well towards the end of this build thread. But to answer your questions:

1. EVO brake lines
2. I run Amsoil in mine
3. I did not run them locked. I change the fluid when I change the rear
4. Yes, you will need an 8” ram.



The build/re-build of Gruff
https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=31355




2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
 

LAJK

Member
1. You need to get standard brake lines but ones that are long enough to accommodate the amount of lift and droop you have.
2. Depends on what lockers you have. If you got ARB's, you should ONLY use old school dino. If you got e-lockers, you can use synthetic. As far as weight goes, it depends on what gear ratio you got with them. 5.13's or 5.38's and I would say run a heavier weight at least in the rear.
3. Honestly, I would just concern yourself with breaking in the rear. Unless you're in 4WD, you're never really gonna be able to get the kind of break in that you'd otherwise be looking for up front.
4. That sounds about right to me.

I went with arbs and 5.38’s
 

Ddays

Hooked
I went with arbs and 5.38’s

That's my setup as well. I use Lucas 85W-140 because that's on the shelves around here but any brand of dino works. 8" Ram's the ticket.
Sounds like you have all the right answers
 

LAJK

Member
That's my setup as well. I use Lucas 85W-140 because that's on the shelves around here but any brand of dino works. 8" Ram's the ticket.
Sounds like you have all the right answers

How about setting the pinion angles? Being that the axles are designed for 3-5” of lift couldn’t I set the pinion but putting an angle finder on the spring purch with a read out of 0 degrees?
 

LAJK

Member
1. You need to get standard brake lines but ones that are long enough to accommodate the amount of lift and droop you have.
2. Depends on what lockers you have. If you got ARB's, you should ONLY use old school dino. If you got e-lockers, you can use synthetic. As far as weight goes, it depends on what gear ratio you got with them. 5.13's or 5.38's and I would say run a heavier weight at least in the rear.
3. Honestly, I would just concern yourself with breaking in the rear. Unless you're in 4WD, you're never really gonna be able to get the kind of break in that you'd otherwise be looking for up front.
4. That sounds about right to me.

What weights would you recommend?
 

LAJK

Member
Being that my Jeep is a factory rubicon is there a way to wire into the factory switch so that the locker dash lights still function as if it were stock axles. I have arb air lockers
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Being that my Jeep is a factory rubicon is there a way to wire into the factory switch so that the locker dash lights still function as if it were stock axles. I have arb air lockers

Yeah... it can be done. Back in the day, I had EVO make it work on Moby but honestly, I couldn't tell you what they did. I do know they wired things up to the factory relays but that's about it. Obviously, you will need to have your compressor come on first but other than that, you should be able to work something out. Unlike the JL/JT, the electrical setup on the JK is a lot less complicated.
 

Ddays

Hooked
How about setting the pinion angles? Being that the axles are designed for 3-5” of lift couldn’t I set the pinion but putting an angle finder on the spring purch with a read out of 0 degrees?

That's a good starting point but still best to verify on the DS & pinion.
 

jdofmemi

Active Member
Being that my Jeep is a factory rubicon is there a way to wire into the factory switch so that the locker dash lights still function as if it were stock axles. I have arb air lockers

Other than the clean factory look, why would you want too? I hate having to follow all the rules the corporate attorneys set for when you can use things like lockers and sway bars.

I love being able to engage the rear locker while in 2wd if I want, as well as any other time I wish.
 

J&k_Overland

Active Member
Other than the clean factory look, why would you want too? I hate having to follow all the rules the corporate attorneys set for when you can use things like lockers and sway bars.

I love being able to engage the rear locker while in 2wd if I want, as well as any other time I wish.

You rebel


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LAJK

Member
Other than the clean factory look, why would you want too? I hate having to follow all the rules the corporate attorneys set for when you can use things like lockers and sway bars.

I love being able to engage the rear locker while in 2wd if I want, as well as any other time I wish.

It’s just a thought. If there is more work involved then I’m willing to put forth I’ll just keep it simple. Once I switch to arbs will the locker light always be illuminated on my dash?
 

jdofmemi

Active Member
It’s just a thought. If there is more work involved then I’m willing to put forth I’ll just keep it simple. Once I switch to arbs will the locker light always be illuminated on my dash?

That's one of the few lights NOT illuminated on my dash, so I think you are good. The lights come on when you activate them, and flash when activated but not locked. If the factory module is not active, no lights at all.
 

fiend

Caught the Bug
That's one of the few lights NOT illuminated on my dash, so I think you are good. The lights come on when you activate them, and flash when activated but not locked. If the factory module is not active, no lights at all.

[emoji23]Maybe those lights are trying to tell you something, Jerry. [emoji848]


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jdofmemi

Active Member
[emoji23]Maybe those lights are trying to tell you something, Jerry. [emoji848]


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I actually have an appointment to get the clock spring replaced at the dealer while I'm gone to Tennessee. Then only the ABS and stability control lights will be on, and if I turn the stupid back on, they will go out too, at least they did last time I had everything working right.
 

jesse3638

Hooked
It’s just a thought. If there is more work involved then I’m willing to put forth I’ll just keep it simple. Once I switch to arbs will the locker light always be illuminated on my dash?
Exactly what Jerry said. I have an ARB up front and stock in the rear. No lights and the rear still works like it's supposed to. As Jerry said I think if you wire them through the factory computer you'll be limited to when it would allow you to use them.

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