Drag link flip

Hey all... i had my 2012 JKU worked on at Off Road Evolution... Mel mentioned I should flip my drag link to get my front suspension/steering components back in line to help with some of the issues i was describing to him. Based on what he said while i was there and my research here, it seems like a good thing to do since it wasn't done by the PO when they lifted the JKU. I have about a 3.5" lift on now with 37s and flat aftermarket fenders.

A few questions comes up as i ponder doing this install myself.

1) For those who did this install, do you regret doing it yourself?
2) Are there any "gotchas" that i need to be aware of before i attempt doing this myself?
3) Is there a chance i have to install taller springs to make sure everything clears at full articulation? Mel mentioned i may have to raise the jeep about an inch so nothing hits the frame or other components. I prefer to keep jeep as low as possible.. was wondering if this part is true.
4) Is Evo the best kit for doing this or would you recommend another kit?

I'm trying to get more involved with wrenching on my JKU. I'm also not too proud to have a quality shop work on it when it becomes beyond my skillset. Thought I'd put this out there and ask your opinions.

Thanks!!
 
I’m about to undertake this install as part of my coilover conversion so interested to see the input. I’ve had a lot of time to research and go thru their instructions since I placed my order and I have the time to do it and the only thing I’ve come across is the min. 3” bumpstops per their instructions.


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rogerk93

New member
I did the synergy drag link flip a while ago and it is pretty easy. The toughest part is drilling out the knuckle and I used a cordless drill at the time as it was all that I had. I kept the hole lubricated with regular motor oil as I was drilling and it helped a lot. Make sure you keep the drill bit straight the whole time and back it off every so often to keep the metal out of the hole and not over heating the drill bit.


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J

JKDream

Guest
Hey all... i had my 2012 JKU worked on at Off Road Evolution... Mel mentioned I should flip my drag link to get my front suspension/steering components back in line to help with some of the issues i was describing to him. Based on what he said while i was there and my research here, it seems like a good thing to do since it wasn't done by the PO when they lifted the JKU. I have about a 3.5" lift on now with 37s and flat aftermarket fenders.

A few questions comes up as i ponder doing this install myself.

1) For those who did this install, do you regret doing it yourself?
2) Are there any "gotchas" that i need to be aware of before i attempt doing this myself?
3) Is there a chance i have to install taller springs to make sure everything clears at full articulation? Mel mentioned i may have to raise the jeep about an inch so nothing hits the frame or other components. I prefer to keep jeep as low as possible.. was wondering if this part is true.
4) Is Evo the best kit for doing this or would you recommend another kit?

I'm trying to get more involved with wrenching on my JKU. I'm also not too proud to have a quality shop work on it when it becomes beyond my skillset. Thought I'd put this out there and ask your opinions.

Thanks!!

Same size lift/tires here, no clearance issues. I'm running 3" bumpstops.
You should have more than enough lift for clearance, bumpstop is what will matter here at your height.
It's an easy install, you basically just take the tire off, dismount the draglink at the axle with either a pickle fork, or a hammer (hitting the side of the knuckle not the rod end). Start drilling, keep the drill center - and lube up the bit frequently. I used old motor oil. Drop the tapered sleeve in and re-bolt the link.

Evo makes a pretty decent kit, it just includes a RHD draglink - so still the stock one.
I would only recommend upgrading the draglink to something stronger if you have no intention of doing hydro assist.
The stock draglink can bend if you muscle the steering around without hydro.
 
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This is sounding like a project i will attempt. Just taking my time of course.

What kit would come with a beefier drag link? I have no plans going hydro or going bigger tires while its my daily. once she wears out completely in 10 years then all bets are off :rock:
 
J

JKDream

Guest
This is sounding like a project i will attempt. Just taking my time of course.

What kit would come with a beefier drag link? I have no plans going hydro or going bigger tires while its my daily. once she wears out completely in 10 years then all bets are off :rock:

I went with a Rubicon Express 4340. It was cheaper for me to go this route than buying the EVO kit with duties etc. I also liked that it doesn't have a bend in it.
You really only need three things - draglink, tapered adapter, and a trackbar bracket, doesn't have to be the same brand.
To be clear though, the stock draglink works just fine for most. If you aren't manhandling the steering it should be more than adequate.
 

DMF

Active Member
I went with the Synergy Drag Link Flip. Drilling the knuckle was easy, the hole for the knuckle is already there so just take your time expanding it. I remember the drag link on the knuckle side fail right off. But on the pitman arm side, I had to pickle fork it and use my floor jack to pop that side off. Maybe you can PB Blast that drag link the night before you try taking it off.
 
Lift really has little to do with clearance of the flip, you will need at least 3" of bumpstop to clear the steering components though. I run a 3" Synergy lift with 3/4" coil spacers up front and a Synergy flip and I really like it, drives much easier than before. The only thing, with the flip, you have to raise the axle side of the trackbar mount as well.

Not sure what Mel is talking about, with 3.5" of lift and 37s i would think you'd be running enough bumpstop already, but check just in case.
 
Plus the Evo kit blows. It reuses the factory pitman arm side of the DL and TRE.
Get a kit that replaces the whole drag link, Synergy, Steer Smarts, Currie, Teraflex, whatever...

Try to stay away from the bolt on brackets and use a weld-on version. If you are a welder of if you can find a competent welder, that's the way to go.
 

jesse3638

Hooked
Plus the Evo kit blows. It reuses the factory pitman arm side of the DL and TRE.
Get a kit that replaces the whole drag link, Synergy, Steer Smarts, Currie, Teraflex, whatever...

Try to stay away from the bolt on brackets and use a weld-on version. If you are a welder of if you can find a competent welder, that's the way to go.

Not sure that retaining the factory components makes the kit blow. I can say for myself I've had it on for 6.5 years with no issues. As I recall there are others who wheel a lot harder than I do who also are reusing the factory stuff with no issues. I agree bolting the track bar bracket to the axle is a pain in the ass, but the EVO kit can be welded as well.
 

Clearskies

Caught the Bug
I used the Rock Krawler high steer, Beefy stuff, just make sure it gets welded. The factory bracket Will fail if you don't weld it.
 

fiend

Caught the Bug
I have had the synergy flip kit for 5+ years. The drag link has been great. No issues. I have the older one that “flops,” which some people don’t like appearancewise, but it doesn’t affect performance.

I ran the Synergy bolt on track bar bracket for about 4 years and it was great. No issues. When I swapped to a PR44, I went to a Synergy weld-on bracket. Works great.
 

longarmwj

New member
Plus the Evo kit blows. It reuses the factory pitman arm side of the DL and TRE.
Get a kit that replaces the whole drag link, Synergy, Steer Smarts, Currie, Teraflex, whatever...

Try to stay away from the bolt on brackets and use a weld-on version. If you are a welder of if you can find a competent welder, that's the way to go.

Personally I wouldn’t take advice from anybody who recommends Steer Smarts or Teraflex, but that’s just me.

Glad this topic came up thought because I have been eyeballing a flip kit myself.


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TrailHunter

Hooked
Evo uses a factory drag link which is available most everywhere. That’s what I would go with.


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Would it also be safe to say that if you aren't running a ram assist... it's better to bend your stock drag link, than put more stress on your sector shaft with a beefier drag link.... and if you have Ram Assist, than the stock drag link is all you need? Plus, like you said, easy to get anywhere...

on a side note.... why does Evo give you a drag link in the kit, if it's the same as stock?
 
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longarmwj

New member
Why? Both are reputable companies...

Lol steer smarts came on here to pimp their shit with their stupid attenuators bullshit clearly in violation of the rules, if memory serves me correct. And terrorflex is just an all around crappy company with terrible part quality and even worse customer service.


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