Coilovers or PR60???

devwil68

devwil68

Member
I'm trying to plan my next move in "Blue" here and I am having trouble deciding.

Running 37s, already have a PR44u up front with a 3.5 RK mid-arm setup.

Just did the Rubicon last week and I wanna go back already and step up to the more significant trails in Moab also.

Let me know what you guys would do as they are similar price range.

Thx! 😉
 
Are 37s the biggest you are going to go? If yes, I'd get the Coilovers. Then start saving for the long arms.

The rear 44 is a true 44 and can continue to handle your 37s.
 
MR.Ty said:
Are 37s the biggest you are going to go? If yes, I'd get the Coilovers. Then start saving for the long arms.

The rear 44 is a true 44 and can continue to handle your 37s.
Click to expand...

I have thought about running 40s, but thought I might need a little more lift if I did that. I'd like to keep it as low as possible and step up to a 37x13.5.

If I stay with the stock 44, would new shafts, locker, and gusset be necessary? Or, new shafts and keep it open?

Is the ever all ride quality better on coilovers? And with 12" Kings, is the flex that much better than what I'm already running?
 
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devwil68 said:
I have thought about running 40s, but thought I might need a little more lift if I did that. I'd like to keep it as low as possible and step up to a 37x13.5.

If I stay with the stock 44, would new shafts, locker, and gusset be necessary? Or, new shafts and keep it open?
Click to expand...

Wait......I'm confused here.....Did you say you already have a PR44 up front??.......Gussets on the rear?.....You have a locked PR44 with RCVs up front why would you not lock the back OEM 44........Lock the back add chrome moly shafts and add the coil overs......run 37" all day long.......when you make the jump to 40"s then maybe add a Trail 60 and roll out with that......

~Woodrow~
 
devwil68 said:
I have thought about running 40s, but thought I might need a little more lift if I did that. I'd like to keep it as low as possible and step up to a 37x13.5.

If I stay with the stock 44, would new shafts, locker, and gusset be necessary? Or, new shafts and keep it open?
Click to expand...

The Coilovers would still be my suggestion mainly because you can adjust them to run your current 37s or 40s down the road.

If you haven't, you should go through this thread. http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=25860

As for your rear. You already have an ARB front locker correct? It wouldn't hurt to put one in the rear but if you are stuck on the idea of up grading to a PR60 you might be better off saving for that. I would pick up an extra set of rear axle shafts and call it good.

You could also do a trail60 with a PR60 pumpkin and save roughly $1k.

Another thing about jumping to 40s is now your front axle is your weak point again. PR44s are only suggested for 37s and smaller.

So in summary. Go for the coil overs, consider locking your rear 44 or at least get some spare axle shafts and start saving for everything needed to run 40s.
 
MR.Ty said:
The Coilovers would still be my suggestion mainly because you can adjust them to run your current 37s or 40s down the road.

If you haven't, you should go through this thread. http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=25860

As for your rear. You already have an ARB front locker correct? It wouldn't hurt to put one in the rear but if you are stuck on the idea of up grading to a PR60 you might be better off saving for that. I would pick up an extra set of rear axle shafts and call it good.

You could also do a trail60 with a PR60 pumpkin and save roughly $1k.

Another thing about jumping to 40s is now your front axle is your weak point again. PR44s are only suggested for 37s and smaller.

So in summary. Go for the coil overs, consider locking your rear 44 or at least get some spare axle shafts and start saving for everything needed to run 40s.
Click to expand...

Sounds like words of wisdom! Lol.

And yes, I addressed the front immediately and got the PR44U and ARB. Needed at least the front locked to I could get myself out of most sticky situations. I did have to use the winch a couple of time on the Rubicon at Buck Island Lake and Cadillac Hill which was mainly a miss placement of tires in my part and being cautious! This thing has done more than I ever thought possible, but I know coilovers would make it much easier on my nerves in those tippy situations!
 
MR.Ty said:
Are 37s the biggest you are going to go? If yes, I'd get the Coilovers. Then start saving for the long arms.

The rear 44 is a true 44 and can continue to handle your 37s.
Click to expand...

So you're saying get like the bolt on coil overs then later down the line get the long arms? Didn't know that was possible
 
Warebear said:
So you're saying get like the bolt on coil overs then later down the line get the long arms? Didn't know that was possible
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Yes. The EVO-201 kit is just the coilovers and LCAs.
The EVO-202 kit is with the long arm.

You can buy everything separately as needed.
 
MR.Ty said:
Yes. The EVO-201 kit is just the coilovers and LCAs.
The EVO-202 kit is with the long arm.

You can buy everything separately as needed.
Click to expand...

So a swap of the front lowers is needed for coilovers?

I was looking into Rebels bolt on kit also. Thoughts?
 
Fir-na-tine said:
Wait......I'm confused here.....Did you say you already have a PR44 up front??.......Gussets on the rear?.....You have a locked PR44 with RCVs up front why would you not lock the back OEM 44........Lock the back add chrome moly shafts and add the coil overs......run 37" all day long.......when you make the jump to 40"s then maybe add a Trail 60 and roll out with that......

~Woodrow~
Click to expand...

Trail 60 isnt rated for 40's.
 
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devwil68 said:
So a swap of the front lowers is needed for coilovers?

I was looking into Rebels bolt on kit also. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Yes. The front lowers will keep your caster within spec. The EVO lot also comes with the drag link flip to compensate for the lift and correct your steering geometry.

I'm not sure on the Rebel kit. I'll go take a look at it.
 
MR.Ty said:
Yes. The front lowers will keep your caster within spec. The EVO lot also comes with the drag link flip to compensate for the lift and correct your steering geometry.

I'm not sure on the Rebel kit. I'll go take a look at it.
Click to expand...

Oh, okay. I do already have adjustable lower and upper front control arms with the synergy flip kit.

I would assume these would still work, but that is just a quick assumption. :)
 
Looks like Overlander beat me too it. I found this thread http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=14219 and it pretty much says the same thing. Rebel kit at its lowest setting it still really high.

Price point wise, since you already have the control arms, drag link flip etc, you can just get the bolt on coil overs front and rear for about $1k less than the EVO-201 kit. The Rebel kit is $4k without all the extra needed stuff.
 
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