I think the ask here is a difficult one. Meaning, pretty much every axle you mention has seen failures.
Anything mechanical is going to have a weak point. I think for the most part, stock front D44s are weak in the tubes and C's. We have all seen the pictures of a broken passenger side tube on D30/44s (they share the same tubes).
When you move into an aftermarket built D44, I feel the weak point moves to the ring and pinion, especially when running short gears like 5.13s or 5.38s.
If you are looking to change out your front axle, my recommendation would be a Dynatrac Prorock44 as long as you don't plan on going any bigger than 37s. Built right here in the USA, customer service that is second to none and a tract record that proves they build excellent t axles.
All of this said, if money isn't an issue, go for a 60/60 or 60/80 combo!![]()
I think the ask here is a difficult one. Meaning, pretty much every axle you mention has seen failures.
Anything mechanical is going to have a weak point. I think for the most part, stock front D44s are weak in the tubes and C's. We have all seen the pictures of a broken passenger side tube on D30/44s (they share the same tubes).
When you move into an aftermarket built D44, I feel the weak point moves to the ring and pinion, especially when running short gears like 5.13s or 5.38s.
If you are looking to change out your front axle, my recommendation would be a Dynatrac Prorock44 as long as you don't plan on going any bigger than 37s. Built right here in the USA, customer service that is second to none and a tract record that proves they build excellent t axles.
All of this said, if money isn't an issue, go for a 60/60 or 60/80 combo!![]()
This pretty much sums it all up! I run a Prorock 44, with 538s. I broke the left axle joint, which also ruined the axle. While changing it out, I found a chipped ring tooth, but not sure it was related. I'm not surprised I broke, it probably won't be the last time as I'm way over torque and tire size recommendations. I'm surprised how much of a beating the Dynatrac will take! Hopefully it holds together long enough to still be worth something when it's replaced with a 60!
I'm planning on running 37x14 17 Irok bias ply on aluminium beadlocks with 5.38s. But I may up it to 39.5x13.50 Iroks or 40x16 Swamper LTBs. I have a 2dr and will stay with the stock 3.6 with auto. Due to the almost bottomless mud you run across in Florida I am building my rig to be light (my aftermarket bumpers will be replaced with aluminum ones, and i an ordering the RK OffRoad Pro stretch with the aluminum arms) to stay on top of the mud. My DD is my motorcycle and if the weather is bad I just drive my wife's Ram, she doesn't work any more. And cost is also a concern. Maybe in several years it won't be and I will do a 7.0 LS with PR60/PR80. But that is way too fast in the future to think about.
This pretty much sums it all up! I run a Prorock 44, with 538s. I broke the left axle joint, which also ruined the axle. While changing it out, I found a chipped ring tooth, but not sure it was related. I'm not surprised I broke, it probably won't be the last time as I'm way over torque and tire size recommendations. I'm surprised how much of a beating the Dynatrac will take! Hopefully it holds together long enough to still be worth something when it's replaced with a 60!
What tires were you running when that happened?