While we were waiting for King to ship us the parts we needed to fix our coil overs, Cindy decided to use the time to clean them and the bypass shocks up a bit. Here's what they looked like before.
And, here's what they looked like after she gave them a bit of elbow grease.
23. In order to remove the rod ends from the coil over shaft, you will NEED to have a King Shaft Soft Jaw Clamp and a shop press. There simply is no way to get the grip you need to remove the rod ends without them.
24. Using a large crescent wrench, remove the rod end from the coil over shaft.
25. Just when we thought they'd never show up, our new rod ends finally showed up from King and with the spherical bearings already installed. If yours came in separate pieces, you will need to assemble them now.
26. Using your shop press and King Shaft Sot Jaw Clamp, secure your coil over and install your new rod ends using a large crescent wrench.
27. Before re-installing your coil overs and bypass shocks, you should check to see what their PSI is using a charging manifold and make a note of it.
28. Making sure that your reservoir is routed correctly, install your bypass shock onto the EVO Lever frame mount.
29. Insert the bolt and washer to hold the bypass shock in place and apply some red loc-tite to its threads.
30. Using a 3/4" socket and wrench, secure the bypass shock bolt and nut to 100-120 ft. lbs. of torque.
31. More than likely, your bypass shock end will not line up to the cantilever arm. It'll be near impossible to move the shaft by hand so you will need to release the nitrogen inside of it.
32. With the nitrogen released, you should be able to pull the bypass shock shaft back with your T-Handle Adjuster.
33. Slide the bypass shock end into the cantilever arm, insert the bolt and washer to hold everything in place and then apply some red loc-tite to the threads.
34. Using a 3/4" socket and wrench, tighten the bolt and nut to 110-120 ft. lbs. of torque.
35. Charge up your bypass shock with nitrogen and to the PSI you prefer.
36. Using a flathead screw driver or 5/16" driver, secure the bypass shock reservoir to it's mount.
37. Assemble the coil and retaining cup onto your coil over and then carefully install it onto the EVO Lever frame mount.
38. Insert the bolt and washer to hold everything in place and then apply some red loc-tite to the threads.
39. It is impossible to get a torque wrench up into the EVO Lever frame to tighten up the coil over bolts. What you will need to do is use two 3/4" box wrenches (or a 19mm wrench if you don't have a second) and then double up the one on the nut end with a 7/8" wrench. This should give you the leverage you need to secure the bolt and nut.
40. As before, you will need to release the nitrogen in the coil over in order to pull the shaft in enough to mount it onto the cantilever arm.
41. Use your T-handle Adjuster to pull the coil over shaft in until you can install it onto the cantilever arm mount.
42. Insert the bolt and washer and then apply a bit of red loc-tite onto the threads.
43. Use a 3/4" socket and wrench to tighten up the bolt and nut to 110-120 ft. lbs. of torque.
44. Charge up your coil over with nitrogen and to the PSI you prefer.
45. Using a flathead screwdriver or 5/16" driver, secure your coil over reservoir to it's mount.
46. Use your T-handle adjuster to set the pre-load on your coil overs back to where they were.
Finished at last. Here's a few shots of Moby's revamped rear end.
For those of you who have a DTD EVO Lever installed on your Jeep and do all your own work, I hope this write-up will be of some help to you. I should note that no torque specs were given to me so I did my best to go off what they would be about based on bolt size and being installed dry. I did go on the conservative side of things so that I wouldn't break any bolts but made sure to use red loc-tite to help things out. I do plan on checking all my bolts and nuts after a 100 miles or so of use. With all that said, please use the information I've provided as a reference only and not as a rule.