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If there’s one thing I’ve learned, anything is possible with a Jeep except saving money. Worth a look, even dust can do it. Could have just shocked the sensor enough to cause a failure, especially if it’s a 23 year old electronic anything. Sent from my pay phone in Chechnya

Check that you didn’t knock something into the tone ring. Sometimes the sensors will trigger if there’s metal schmeg in between the tone ring and the sensor Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

I was at 5.5 on my old 5.2 ZJ and never had driveshaft vibrations with the stock rear shaft. If you have that Rzeppa joint style CV front shaft you’ll want to get rid of that shit and go to a true u-joint style pinion yoke, but other than that your stock driveshafts should be 100% fine. The...

Stock XJ front shaft can fit. As to the bumper, JCR has a decent one. The problem with ZJs is putting winch bumpers make them look like Jay Leno’s chin. JCR has the lowest profile that still saves you some approach angle.

Haha nice! I have a stock set of later injectors laying around if you want them, they upped them to 24# in 1996. Plug and play.

Found this. Had to snag it.

Do yourself a favor if you want to use a 231, look into internal upgrades. They’ll usually hold up to light wheeling and such but the torque can sometimes stretch the chain. I think it’s S10s that have a 231 variant with a bigger chain. Edit: is your 231 the right input shaft length?

Another one! I'm not the only one :rock: Pop the throttle butterflies open and shine a flashlight down the bore into the intake. The plenum gaskets go on these motors and suck oil out of the lifter valley. Oftentimes that oil can cause rough idling. Also check the coolant temp sensor, sometimes...

Old accumulator, the boogered section on the shaft is where that ring is supposed to be. New billet Sonnax piece And it moves. Low but not at all slow, left a 30-foot two-legger even with 33s.

Well she’s home, and tagged. Few small gremlins to tackle but it’s mostly adjustments. Distributor needs to be rotated a degree or two to retard spark, and the reverse servo is unhappy with the higher line pressure after the shift kit so a new billet unit is on the way. There’s a slight lifter...

The entirety of my exhaust post-header Y. Barroom Hero for scale.

Made this midpipe of sorts to go from the headers to the trans mount, used a section of the original y-pipe. Going to mount a second flange on the other side to bolt the cat/muffler to. The exhaust is going to dump immediately after the muffler due to clearance with the rear long arms.

Little bit of a delay in the work.

The 6.0 is finally home! The Doug Thorleys are tight, but I managed to fit them in without unbolting the motor mounts again. Most sensors are plugged back together, trans and 242 t-case are in, Clayton crossmember is in, Novak shifter linkage is in. Some odds and ends to finish with the...

Headers finally arrived.

Way less than a boob job. Plus you don't need to go home to it.

I just shorten my throttle cable...

8mm ratcheting wrench (driveshafts) 19mm on breaker bar Deep socket set, 3/8" Shallow socket set, 3/8" 13/16 and 7/8 1/2" for control arms Pro Eagle jack Fuel line disconnects Pipe cutter JB Weld BFH made from a railroad bolt and DOM Spare yokes Spare 1350 U-joints Spare hose clamps Spare e-fan...

I did a thing.

I certainly don't enjoy daily driving my Jeep having to run 93, and I'm sure I'm not alone with not using my rig as a daily. Who's got what? This is mine, 97 TDI-swapped Golf CL up to around stage 4+ with 22psi and ~200hp/330ft-lbs, and still gets 40-50ish MPG depending oh now exuberant I am at...