What was done to your rig this week?

Had a little DW at Moab, things were okay once the bolts were tightened all the way home until recently, l I hit just the right bump and giddy'up cowboy...
Replaced both bushings on the Synergy track bar, reinstalled the Synergy sector brace bracket since the track bar mounting bracket bolt holes were little oblong.
Added to Fox steering stabilizer, the OEM had several dents.
Also swapped out the synergy steering stabilizer relocation Bolt for the Clayton relocation bracket I had.
 

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Checking other components, I noticed the front long arm coil over brackets weren't touching the axle, for those that have the bolt on long arm is this normal? I don't recall it being this separated

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Is there a spacer missing between the stock shock mount bracket?
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Had to replace the auxiliary battery again, battery is 8 months old.
O'Reilly warrantied it and the guy told me that the previous company they had making the batteries for them was having quality issues, the one I just put in should be more reliable... I hope.

That old battery only had an 80% charge even though I attempted to charge it with an agm charger.

The battery tester tested it as Good but with only 80% charge, it's the only thing I can think of that would make it give the error code.
put the replacement in, started the jeep, no error messages.

I wish I had my multimeter with me, I'd like to know where the aux battery wires end. I took what I thought were the two grounds from the body after removing the main battery and they were still sparking each time they touched the body.

Anyone know if the aux battery charges while driving or does it only feed off the main battery?20250702_135523.jpg

I had to undo my "neat" accessory wiring, it was too neat and, in the way, 🙈
 
jeeeep said:
Had to replace the auxiliary battery again, battery is 8 months old.
O'Reilly warrantied it and the guy told me that the previous company they had making the batteries for them was having quality issues, the one I just put in should be more reliable... I hope.

That old battery only had an 80% charge even though I attempted to charge it with an agm charger.

The battery tester tested it as Good but with only 80% charge, it's the only thing I can think of that would make it give the error code.
put the replacement in, started the jeep, no error messages.

I wish I had my multimeter with me, I'd like to know where the aux battery wires end. I took what I thought were the two grounds from the body after removing the main battery and they were still sparking each time they touched the body.

Anyone know if the aux battery charges while driving or does it only feed off the main battery?View attachment 427889

I had to undo my "neat" accessory wiring, it was too neat and, in the way, 🙈
Click to expand...
Technically it charges while driving but it all flows off of the main battery, not directly off the alternator
 
cozdude said:
Technically it charges while driving but it all flows off of the main battery, not directly off the alternator
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info, so maybe having ESS off all the time might also be causing the battery to die as it seems having it on creates the charging mode for the aux battery.

I'm leaving ESS off (tazer) but plan to check the battery with my tester in 3 months to see what the charge level is, then run it with ESS on and again check it to see if there is a change in charge level.

The old battery, even after attempting to charge it with an AGM charger read 80% charge level (CCA tested fine and overall, the tester indicated a good battery) but I still had the ESS warning icon, and I was beginning to get key not detected quite often.

Only difference with batteries, the new one had a little more CCA and the charge level was 100%

The inner hulk wants to sledgehammer the ESS system.
 
CalSgt said:
Any recommendations for aftermarket knuckles?

I figured I might as well go HD this time, I’ve looked at Reid, RockJock, and Synergy. I’m leaning toward the Reid racing parts but have no real reason to be biased
Click to expand...
Yeah, the aluminum ones are bullshit, should never have been added to a rubicon. I have the Reids and they are awesome, despite the orange. However, any of the steels would be fine and significantly better than the oem.
 
CalSgt said:
Any recommendations for aftermarket knuckles?

I figured I might as well go HD this time, I’ve looked at Reid, RockJock, and Synergy. I’m leaning toward the Reid racing parts but have no real reason to be biased
Click to expand...
I did the Synergy knuckles not too long ago.

Easy install, everything lined up perfectly and the steering is still a lot tighter than it was new.

If you live anywhere that you have corrosion, be prepared to replace other parts.
 
CalSgt said:
Any recommendations for aftermarket knuckles?

I figured I might as well go HD this time, I’ve looked at Reid, RockJock, and Synergy. I’m leaning toward the Reid racing parts but have no real reason to be biased
Click to expand...
I installed Synergy for the similar reason, BJ not broken but I noticed wear signs on the OEM that I don't see in steel knuckles and the corrosion was bullshit.

I like the Synergy because they are fully coated them, time tell if the hubs corrode but the coating on the knuckles is supposed to prevent that.
 
jeeeep said:
I installed Synergy for the similar reason, BJ not broken but I noticed wear signs on the OEM that I don't see in steel knuckles and the corrosion was bullshit.

I like the Synergy because they are fully coated them, time tell if the hubs corrode but the coating on the knuckles is supposed to prevent that.
Click to expand...
I anti-seized the contact point between knuckle and hubs.

After seeing the corrosion on the aluminum knuckle and the rust on the OEM bearing I knew I would have to do something.
It was fun separating the two.
 
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