Recent content by Blackhawkip

I had to chime in on the light bar conversation. Everyone builds their jeep for their own purpose and mine was built specifically for hunting in Idaho/Colorado every fall/winter. We hunt between 7000-9500' and typically are on logging and forest service roads starting at 4am. Back in the day...

I know several of the wheels out there run a 3.5" backspace and that seems to be ideal for running 37 or 40" tires. I've searched the threads and can't find the answer to folks are running less than 3.5". My wheels are 4.4" backspace and am running 1 1/4" wheel spacers with 37x13.50R17 SST...

Before deciding on going with the King Rear Bump Stop kit, I scoured the internet looking for pictures. I could only find one and it wasn't very good. I went with the King install kit because I liked that I didn't have to cut into the frame to install them. Thought I'd post up pictures for...

I've read that many of you run beadlocks on your daily driver or at least run them full-time. I purchased a set of MOPAR beadlocks for my 37x13.5R17 SST Pros. I don't put a lot of miles on my Jeep but I am planning a few road trips >1000 miles round-trip in the near future. The instructions...

Well, after a lot of help and advice given on this forum I finally picked up my JKU Rubicon from ORE last week. My Jeep is a 2013 and have been building it up since I purchased it new. Pain of building is spread out over 5 years and I have more patience than money. I've waited for "deals"...

This is a close-up of the tow bar attached to the drop bar. The 10K rating of the drop bar is overkill since the limiting factor is the 5K limit of my RV.

You can see how I cut the curry plate to fit the 7-prong plug. I found it easiest to cut the "FJ" stamp out and use it as my initial "hole". I placed the brake hole just above it for a cleaner look. I am really happy with the decision and think it turned out professional looking.

This picture shows the entry of the brake cable into the curry plate. I cut the plastic ferrel at the same angle as the curry plate so it would be parallel with the ground when coming out the front.

I zip tied the wire bundle to the factory brake lines on the top of the front left tire frame rail. I then ran the bundle to come out behind the currie plate.

I kept the wire bundle inside the frame rail to the front left wheel where I pulled it out through a factory opening.

This shows where I entered into the frame rail from he left rear corner where the harness plugs into the factory harness.

A picture showing how well the Currie plate is tucked into the factory bumper. I currently run the AEV front bumper and it works just as well.

Here is the overall close-up of the setup.

I did this awhile ago but thought it may be useful to those who are considering flat towing their Jeep. I've had it on now for over 3 years and ~5000 miles. I have a 2011 32' Class C and a 2013 Rubicon. I spent countless hours scouring every website while trying to figure out the best way to...

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