Front locker on JK questions?

ZERO LIMITZ

ZERO LIMITZ

Member
Ok wheeled all day and engaged and disengaged several times with no problem. When we were on a trail at the End of the day I engaged front locker again and when we made it up over the ledge we hit the button to disengage lockers. Rear disengaged no problem but front light just continued to blink and never disengaged. I took the connections off and made sure they were clean and connected good, pulled diff cover and flipped the lock ring to the right and then drove slowly with small turns back and forth in forward and reverse..... But never unlocked..... What could I have done to get the front unlocked manually while I had the front cover off??? I took it to stealership today and they were able to get it unlocked.... What could I have done???
 
Does it work correctly now ? I have noticed that mine would flash for a little here and there but it always shut off eventually.subscribe .

EVO 4G WAYALIFE.
 
Tackerdown said:
Does it work correctly now ? I have noticed that mine would flash for a little here and there but it always shut off eventually.subscribe .

EVO 4G WAYALIFE.
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The stealership was able to get it unlocked, but I would like to know what they did so I don't have to take it to them if it happens again
 
Unfortunately, the factory locker is just weak and its internal components are prone to cracking over time. Once this happens, it becomes harder and harder for the wave spring inside to push out the dog clutch. That is ultimately what will prevent your lockers from disengaging. If you had fully released the dog clutch, it should have done the trick.
 
ZERO LIMITZ said:
The stealership was able to get it unlocked, but I would like to know what they did so I don't have to take it to them if it happens again
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Look in the fill hole. In the back you should see a little silver button. If you push it to the right it should disengage the locker.

If you are running bigger tires, it is just a matter of time before the factory locker stops working. There was a thread on here where a guy cleaned his all out and I thought he said it started working better. :thumb:
 
wayoflife said:
Unfortunately, the factory locker is just weak and its internal components are prone to cracking over time. Once this happens, it becomes harder and harder for the wave spring inside to push out the dog clutch. That is ultimately what will prevent your lockers from disengaging. If you had fully released the dog clutch, it should have done the trick.
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Thanks, guess that just put PR 60's on the I want/ need list.
 
MTG said:
Look in the fill hole. In the back you should see a little silver button. If you push it to the right it should disengage the locker.

If you are running bigger tires, it is just a matter of time before the factory locker stops working. There was a thread on here where a guy cleaned his all out and I thought he said it started working better. :thumb:
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Thanks for input!!!
 
ZERO LIMITZ said:
Thanks, guess that just put PR 60's on the I want/ need list.
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We'll, may not need anything as big as a PR60 up front unless you're hoping to run 40's and play hard. A PR44 is probably all that you really need. :yup:

suicideking said:
What size wheels are you running?

If the dealer got it fixed, just see if it happens again. If it does (and sounds like it will), then deal with it. I'd just replace it with an ARB.
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You can only install an ARB up front if you don't have sleeves installed or are running the pound in kind and even at that, I'd have a hard time throwing anymore money at a factory 44 than is needed.
 
wayoflife said:
We'll, may not need anything as big as a PR60 up front unless you're hoping to run 40's and play hard. A PR44 is probably all that you really need. :yup:

You can only install an ARB up front if you don't have sleeves installed or are running the pound in kind and even at that, I'd have a hard time throwing anymore money at a factory 44 than is needed.
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I started all this thinking that 35" was all I wanted. Well now that I have a set of 37" I'm sure before all is said and done going bigger will probably happen. Caught the bug and can't shake it, and its growing!!!!!
 
ZERO LIMITZ said:
I started all this thinking that 35" was all I wanted. Well now that I have a set of 37" I'm sure before all is said and done going bigger will probably happen. Caught the bug and can't shake it, and its growing!!!!!
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:cheesy: Believe me, I understand :crazyeyes:
 
If you pushed the clutch over to the right and your light was still reading locked, then the sensor in the back was stuck. Here is a pick of where the sensor is. It is that screw head looking thing behind the clutch, just in front of the pinion.

[note in this pic my clutch is installed wrong; that plate should be to the right of the sensor, not hung over it like in this pic]

Dave

IMG_0547.jpg
 
dchew said:
If you pushed the clutch over to the right and your light was still reading locked, then the sensor in the back was stuck. Here is a pick of where the sensor is. It is that screw head looking thing behind the clutch, just in front of the pinion.



Dave

<img src="http://wayalife.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26131"/>
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Thanks. I appreciate the Help
 
wayoflife said:
You can only install an ARB up front if you don't have sleeves installed or are running the pound in kind and even at that, I'd have a hard time throwing anymore money at a factory 44 than is needed.
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I have an Evo sleeve. Are those pound in?

Good to know though. I guess if it's not pound it, I would want to take it out and get a pound in one? Or would RCV shafts be better?

Hopefully it will be a while. I've only had the Rubi D44 front on for about a year and try not to use the locker unless I need it. I have an ARB in the rear. Use that one all the time.
 
Evo are weld in. I have them and am dealing with the same locker failure.


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suicideking said:
I have an Evo sleeve. Are those pound in?
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Nope, those are weld in and better because of it.

Good to know though. I guess if it's not pound it, I would want to take it out and get a pound in one?
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Put it to you this way, without glue, plywood would just be thin sheets of wood sitting on top of each other.

Or would RCV shafts be better?
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Better than sleeves? Well, being that you're more likely to break a shaft than an axle housing any day of the week, I suppose it would be better but, a standard chromoly shaft with full circle clips will do the same thing and without the $400 additional cost.
 
ttfhell said:
Evo are weld in. I have them and am dealing with the same locker failure.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
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Can't say you locker being broken has been bothering me:p

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
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