Trail Ready Beadlocks don’t fit onto Dynatrac XD60 but do on UD60

mastrcruse

New member
I’m having an issue getting the Trail ready beadlocks on to the Dynatrac XD60. They are all 8 lug and they fit on the rear UD60 but its almost like the XD60s lugs are too spread out of the wheels are bored incorrectly. Weird though that they slide right on to the UD60. Need to figure
something out or I’m stuck without a vehicle.

Any advice? Thoughts?
 
Last edited:
No. Both should be 8x6.5

You can see how close it is.
 

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They might have sent you 1 or 2 wheels 8x170. I would confirm that every wheel fits the UD60 and go from there
 
Son of a bitch! Axle is 8x170. Think after spending $9600 on an axle that they could get the lug pattern correct. Now I’m in a bad situation cause it’s either gamble on Dynatrac sending me new hubs expressed air out to me.
 
Son of a bitch! Axle is 8x170. Think after spending $9600 on an axle that they could get the lug pattern correct. Now I’m in a bad situation cause it’s either gamble on Dynatrac sending me new hubs expressed air out to me.

that sucks, wonder if someone else is saying the same thing with the 8x6.5 axle they received.

Hopefully they'll get to fixed up fast
 
Is this an easy switch? Like they just send me new hubs and it’s over to a 8x6.5. Trying to figure it if I should have my builder reverse everything or keep going and just wait for hubs.
 
Is this an easy switch? Like they just send me new hubs and it’s over to a 8x6.5. Trying to figure it if I should have my builder reverse everything or keep going and just wait for hubs.

Don’t worry, call Dynatrac Monday morning, I am sure they’ll take care of you and figure out what went wrong. They are great company [emoji106]


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I had the same issue on the my PR80 when I received my axle set. The fronts slid right on, but the backs were hanging as if they were 8x170. I called Dynatrac and they confirmed the lugs were just off a hair from the assembly process of pressing them into the housing. If you order is correct, you most likely have the correct parts. Just thread a lug onto each stud and give it a whack or two with a dead blow hammer until the wheels slide on. If there are any part numbers on the rotors or hubs, PM me and I can compare them to mine.
 
I had the same issue on the my PR80 when I received my axle set. The fronts slid right on, but the backs were hanging as if they were 8x170. I called Dynatrac and they confirmed the lugs were just off a hair from the assembly process of pressing them into the housing. If you order is correct, you most likely have the correct parts. Just thread a lug onto each stud and give it a whack or two with a dead blow hammer until the wheels slide on. If there are any part numbers on the rotors or hubs, PM me and I can compare them to mine.

Really?! So this is normal..lol! I’ll give it a try today and let ya know if I can find numbers. There are things that Dynatrac could tell their customers that would probably reduce the “holy shit I have the wrong bolt pattern” emails/calls if they’d just say this upfront.

Seriously, thanks for letting me know. This has been a freak the f’ out moment.
 
Really?! So this is normal..lol! I’ll give it a try today and let ya know if I can find numbers. There are things that Dynatrac could tell their customers that would probably reduce the “holy shit I have the wrong bolt pattern” emails/calls if they’d just say this upfront.

Seriously, thanks for letting me know. This has been a freak the f’ out moment.

I experienced the same issue with the rear axle and TR beadlocks. Had to "wiggle" then on. I've also heard this complaint from other Trail Ready beadlock owners and the rear PR60. Mine only hung up the first time I put them on, now they slide on and off with ease.


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This all sounds weird to me. Both companies make quality USA stuff. The idea that the front would work fine but the rear requires a dead blow hammer seems like Dynatrac has something in their process to take a look at. It's a mult-thousand dollar axle. Wheels should slide right on.
 
It is tolerancing. Trail ready has a very tight tolerance unlike many wheels. I had same issue on my ud60s when I ran the TRs and axle was new. I agree it is strange/alarming but once you get them on the first time everything pulls into center and no longer an issue.

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It is tolerancing. Trail ready has a very tight tolerance unlike many wheels. I had same issue on my ud60s when I ran the TRs and axle was new. I agree it is strange/alarming but once you get them on the first time everything pulls into center and no longer an issue.

If I could guess, it's probably this ^^^^. While I didn't have any problems getting my Trail Ready beadlocks installed on my XD60, I did notice that the tolerances were really tight. At least, more so than my Chambers.
 
Mastrcruse, my sincere apologies for your issue. We will followup with you on Monday morning. I'm sure having this happen on the weekend left you feeling a bit stranded, and so I wanted to get in here and provide as much information as possible today. I cant see your order number and I don't have access to the serial number log at home. Can you tell me whether you have our new aluminum knuckles or our Pro60 knuckle?

There are 2 possible reasons for what you are seeing. It is possible, but unlikely, you received an 8on170 hub. It is possible that the hub is machined incorrectly, but also unlikely.

The studs locate on a knurled diameter. The knurl allows the stud freedom to move as it is pressed into place. This could allow the studs to splay slightly outward, which may be your situation. The longer studs we use can tend to magnify the problem making the tips of the stud more off center than a shorter stud. Normally the holes in the wheels are big enough so it is not noticeable during installation, and the lug nuts conical seat squares and sets the stud on the first installation when tightened. This is why re-torquing is so important whenever wheel are changed.

The press tool we have may be worn. We have had to replace it in the past. Knowing which knuckle you have or your order number, will allow me to zero in the tooling we used for your build.

After looking at your photo, if you are in a hurry, aTX427 suggestion is valid and harmless if you don't get carried away. Light taps with a dead blow on a lug nut at the tip of the stud will likely make installing the wheel easier. If the wheel does go on, torque the lug nuts by hand to about 50 lb-ft. Then see if the wheel slides over the studs as you originally expected. Don't gun the lug nuts down all at once. Work in a circular pattern gradually working up to higher torque values. If that looks good go ahead and full torque. Re-torque after 100 miles and again at 300.

Lets connect on Monday to make sure you are good to go.
 
Mastrcruse, my sincere apologies for your issue. We will followup with you on Monday morning. I'm sure having this happen on the weekend left you feeling a bit stranded, and so I wanted to get in here and provide as much information as possible today. I cant see your order number and I don't have access to the serial number log at home. Can you tell me whether you have our new aluminum knuckles or our Pro60 knuckle?

There are 2 possible reasons for what you are seeing. It is possible, but unlikely, you received an 8on170 hub. It is possible that the hub is machined incorrectly, but also unlikely.

The studs locate on a knurled diameter. The knurl allows the stud freedom to move as it is pressed into place. This could allow the studs to splay slightly outward, which may be your situation. The longer studs we use can tend to magnify the problem making the tips of the stud more off center than a shorter stud. Normally the holes in the wheels are big enough so it is not noticeable during installation, and the lug nuts conical seat squares and sets the stud on the first installation when tightened. This is why re-torquing is so important whenever wheel are changed.

The press tool we have may be worn. We have had to replace it in the past. Knowing which knuckle you have or your order number, will allow me to zero in the tooling we used for your build.

After looking at your photo, if you are in a hurry, aTX427 suggestion is valid and harmless if you don't get carried away. Light taps with a dead blow on a lug nut at the tip of the stud will likely make installing the wheel easier. If the wheel does go on, torque the lug nuts by hand to about 50 lb-ft. Then see if the wheel slides over the studs as you originally expected. Don't gun the lug nuts down all at once. Work in a circular pattern gradually working up to higher torque values. If that looks good go ahead and full torque. Re-torque after 100 miles and again at 300.

Lets connect on Monday to make sure you are good to go.
Responses like this make me want to buy one of your axles that much more. HardCore package. Someday.
 
This all sounds weird to me. Both companies make quality USA stuff. The idea that the front would work fine but the rear requires a dead blow hammer seems like Dynatrac has something in their process to take a look at. It's a mult-thousand dollar axle. Wheels should slide right on.

Responses like this make me want to buy one of your axles that much more. HardCore package. Someday.

Yeah it sounds like you want to buy from them since apparently they have “something in there process to take a look at.”


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