PSC Big Bore Cylinder Assist install issues

Traditionally the tabs for the cylinder are welded to the track bar mount. Not saying that yours is wrong that way, but that's why your hoses were too long. Glad it's on and working for you. It is an expensive system but man it sure is sweet when you're in the rocks.

True on the tabs but I really liked the Steer Smarts track bar relocation bracket I have and didn’t want to go with a whole weld on bracket. So I decided to modify the Steer Smarts bracket to work. It does the job nicely. And all I do is wheel in rocks so really looking forward to some easier turning and less chance of breaking the sector shaft. For those who haven’t seen it, it’s huge on the Big Bore gear box.

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True on the tabs but I really liked the Steer Smarts track bar relocation bracket I have and didn’t want to go with a whole weld on bracket. So I decided to modify the Steer Smarts bracket to work. It does the job nicely. And all I do is wheel in rocks so really looking forward to some easier turning and less chance of breaking the sector shaft. For those who haven’t seen it, it’s huge on the Big Bore gear box.

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Seeing that I'm surprised that the hoses were as long as they were. That's only a couple inches different than the 'normal' position on the bracket. Maybe someone sneezed when they were measuring yours or something.
 
This has been a good thread. I feel like I'm almost ready to install one of these once I go that route.
It looks great. You did a good job. Glad it finally worked out!!

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Glad it worked out, PSC is a great company. Can’t say the same for steersmarts though, they blow...


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This has been a good thread. I feel like I'm almost ready to install one of these once I go that route.
It looks great. You did a good job. Glad it finally worked out!!

Sent from my SM-G965U using WAYALIFE mobile app

Thanks. Lesson learned for me was to get the front end at full droop and only go with the hose length you absolutely need. I probably have 1.5-2" extra but cutting off about 6" was crucial in getting rid of all of the pinch points. And with my cylinder mounted closer to the middle the 90 degree fittings do not work.

I did make a mistake in my bracket fab. I set the tab locations based on the lower tab and then brought the upper tab down. That resulted in the cylinder being too close to the tie rod at full right and the tie rod just kissed the mounting bolt. I had to move the tabs up 1/2" and now it's perfect with plenty of clearance.

It's easier to hook up the feed line from the reservoir to the pump at the pump first. Then hook up the feed line and return line from the cooler before you permanently mount the reservoir in it's bracket. I tried hooking them up with the reservoir mounted and almost broke the bracket from the plastic tray.

PSC includes screws and bolts to mount the cooler. But they are worthless since they don't go all the way through bracket you are mounting to and I didn't think self tappers would be strong enough. So I bought M6x1.0x50 screws and drilled all the way through. The cooler is on there firmly now and isn't going anywhere. I did use loctite here.

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This is the only "instruction" PSC sent with the entire kit. I hooked it up just like this to begin with. Fortunately, I did not have the cylinder mounted to the tie rod at the time when bleeding and could see the cylinder rod extending as I turned right. So much fluid was lost flipping this around that it delayed me several days while I ordered more fluid. I don't know what to tell you here. Their diagram was backwards for me. Who knows how it will be for you.

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The nut to secure the pitman arm is 46mm. I had to order a socket to fit. That size is only in 3/4" so you'll need an adapter if you don't have 3/4" ratchets and torque wrenches.

My kit included the anti splash guard. PSC says you can mount it wherever the hose can reach to. The places I had space were too close to the exhaust manifold or in places I didn't want to drill into so I just turned it on it's side and mounted it where the stock reservoir went, using the same screw. I ran the hose under the air box. This works on a 3.8L but might not work with the 3.6L. This guard is meant to be mounted vertically so that the fluid shoots up and hits the bottom of the cap and falls straight back down the sides. It will still work in this fashion but the fluid will just drip out and straight down instead. There is nothing underneath it that area that will cause it to catch on fire. I like it because it occupies an existing space and I didn't have to drill any holes or come up with any fabrications.

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I went to Moab today for a day trip. I did Porcupine Rim. It was a decent test of the recent upgrades.

I can't say the Big Bore with cylinder assist has made it drive better on the highway. It seems a bit more flighty than it was before. I felt like I was struggling to keep it between the lines. I've read that is one of the drawbacks of cylinder assist. Also the system as a whole makes more noise than the stock system. It has an audible groan. It isn't loud, but noticeable. Is this normal?

On the trail is where cylinder assist comes alive. It gives you more options in how to tackle an obstacle. It's definitely a game changer off road.

The only problem I had today was with the Steer Smarts track bar reinforcement bracket I installed while I was installing the Big Bore. It rubs the spring and chewed up the spring perch pretty good. I can't recommend this bracket even though I've been very happy with my other Steer Smarts products.

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I went to Moab today for a day trip. I did Porcupine Rim. It was a decent test of the recent upgrades.

I can't say the Big Bore with cylinder assist has made it drive better on the highway. It seems a bit more flighty than it was before. I felt like I was struggling to keep it between the lines. I've read that is one of the drawbacks of cylinder assist. Also the system as a whole makes more noise than the stock system. It has an audible groan. It isn't loud, but noticeable. Is this normal?

On the trail is where cylinder assist comes alive. It gives you more options in how to tackle an obstacle. It's definitely a game changer off road.

The only problem I had today was with the Steer Smarts track bar reinforcement bracket I installed while I was installing the Big Bore. It rubs the spring and chewed up the spring perch pretty good. I can't recommend this bracket even though I've been very happy with my other Steer Smarts products.

View attachment 346642

I have the full PSC system on my JK and it does not feel flighty and definitely no growl, do you have enough fluid in the reservoir?

Did you use Swepco fluid?

Where yours is mounted, curious to know if it bottoms out on full right turn or extend to limit at full left?
 
You must not have things installed right. Mine has never felt flighty and drives awesome on the highway. I also don’t notice any noises like your describing. Your ram looks too far driver to me


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I wouldn’t say mine is flighty on the highway, but the steering it is more sensitive when you compare it to a stock Jeep or my Ram. It should not make any noise. Having air in the system can cause both of those issues you are having. It takes multiple cycles purging and filling to get all the bubbles out of the system. You need to have someone inside the Jeep turning the steering wheel with the engine off from full lock to lock while you can watch bubbles coming up in the Rez. PSC has instructions on their website.


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
 
Yeah, flighty isn't how I'd describe it either. And growl or groan means air. It is definitely a different feeling as WJT said but after you give it some time you'll find it better than stock.
 
I have the full PSC system on my JK and it does not feel flighty and definitely no growl, do you have enough fluid in the reservoir?

Did you use Swepco fluid?

Where yours is mounted, curious to know if it bottoms out on full right turn or extend to limit at full left?

I used Swepco fluid. It's one inch from the top of the reservoir per PSC recommendations. I get full extension in both ways. Well almost. If you measure the arch your steering will travel it's 6.75". At least mine is. The cylinder arm extends 6.5". As best as I could I tried to split that 1/4" but I doubt it makes any noticeable difference. And I'm probably over exaggerating the noise. It isn't a whine like a pump starving for fluid. It's just...louder. I notice this one whereas with the stock steering system I never noticed it. It's probably normal to make more noise since it it pushing a higher volume of fluid at greater pressure than stock. It isn't a "something is wrong" noise. It's just louder.

You must not have things installed right. Mine has never felt flighty and drives awesome on the highway. I also don’t notice any noises like your describing. Your ram looks too far driver to me


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I covered above how I have it installed. I posted a diagram. I also talked about how PSC has the diagram backwards in the way the hoses connect to the cylinder. At least on my kit if you connected the hoses the way the diagram shows you'd get a bind from the cylinder extending as you turned right. I also have the reservoir mounted as high as I can above the pump. But you are limited in your engine bay where you can achieve this. I did it according to where PSC recommends in their JK install instructions, which are fairly old. PSC also stated that the hose from the gearbox to the pump can't be longer than 16". In fact, they don't even send a hose longer than that in the kit. I think I cut the hose in half when I installed it so from fitting to fitting it's under 12". Can you explain why the cylinder being too far driver would be an issue? As long as the cylinder arm can fully extend and retract it should make no mechanical difference at all where it mounted along the tie rod. In fact, the further to driver you have the cylinder mounted the less hose you need and that means the less hose that is going to bind, pinch or rub on something else.

I wouldn’t say mine is flighty on the highway, but the steering it is more sensitive when you compare it to a stock Jeep or my Ram. It should not make any noise. Having air in the system can cause both of those issues you are having. It takes multiple cycles purging and filling to get all the bubbles out of the system. You need to have someone inside the Jeep turning the steering wheel with the engine off from full lock to lock while you can watch bubbles coming up in the Rez. PSC has instructions on their website.


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler

I'm almost certain we got it fully bled. This is my second gear box install so I'm familiar with the procedure. It's a possibility we didn't get all the air out but after an hour of turning the wheel nothing more was popping up and the fluid level is holding constant. I will say this system took a lot longer than the the stock box did to bleed, but there is more fluid also. I'll go through the procedure again just to make sure, however. Not a bad recommendation.

I think what has happened here is it has made my Jeep already sketchier than it was to begin with. I've had this Jeep a bit over a year now. It had 87,000 miles when I got it and I've spent almost as much on upgrades and wear parts as I did for the Jeep. It's obvious the previous owner(s) never did a lick of maintenance on this thing. Right off the bat I noticed how terrifying this thing was to drive - at any speed. So immediately replaced the ball joints and shocks, along with brakes and u-joints. That wasn't a huge improvement so then I replaced the stock gear box, which I saw was leaking fluid down the sector shaft, with a remanufactured one. That wasn't a huge improvement either. Next step was to replace tie rod, drag link and track bar with the Steer Smarts XD stuff. That actually made a really big jump in handling. I also threw on a Tera Flex adjustable track bar on the rear. But it still wasn't real stable above 75 mph. So then I did the Core 4x4 adjustable control arms. Right now caster is about 5.3 degrees. I know PSC recommends 7 but that would put the pinion angle too steep so maybe I'll try for 6 and see if that helps.

To me, the steering on the highway just feels looser. It probably just accentuated the other issues I was already dealing with. The only thing left now to change would be the tires and that's probably not a bad idea. I have Nitto Mud Grapplers and they are getting chewed up from Moab.

I often wonder if this Jeep is cursed. It still has other issues I need to solve. I could fill this forum up with threads on problems I still have. It's not a daily. I go to Moab every weekend and wheel it. It gets beaten on. Maybe a short wheel base vehicle with a 3.5" lift and 35" mud tires isn't supposed to drive good on the highway. It does very well on the trails though. I'll probably have to trailer the damn thing when I put 37s on it.
 
Glad it worked out, PSC is a great company. Can’t say the same for steersmarts though, they blow...


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I wasn't going to go there but just curious what your issue is with them. Today they told me too bad and it has to be my fault on their bracket that punched a hole in my spring perch.
 
I wasn't going to go there but just curious what your issue is with them. Today they told me too bad and it has to be my fault on their bracket that punched a hole in my spring perch.

That's one of the reasons why they blow.

Here's another:

https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/34385-STEER-SMARTS-has-been-Removed-from-WAYALIFE

And another:

https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/56899-Steer-Smarts-YETI-XD-Draglink-w-Griffin-XD-Attenuator

That "Attenuator" is snake oil horseshit.
 
I wasn't going to go there but just curious what your issue is with them. Today they told me too bad and it has to be my fault on their bracket that punched a hole in my spring perch.

The next one is in a year when their tie rod end goes out, and you find the replacement END is well over $200, and you realize that if one is bad the other one will be soon. Nothing else fits because theirs is special.

I'm running Bubba's 7075 aluminum with GM one ton ends, and you can get them at the local auto parts store for $40.

As far as the bracket eating your spring perch, is your axle pushed forward too far?
 
That would be one of the issues.



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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407

I've been pretty happy with the difference the Steer Smarts stuff made on my Jeep but today this guy Jay from Steer Smarts says it's "not a known issue" with their bracket and that I must be running adjustable control arms or a lift kit and that fitment is my problem. Uh, dude it's a Jeep. If we are buying your aftermarket parts what do you think we're doing with the rest of our Jeep?

I know I'm taking this thread off topic but I'm kind of pissed that for $164 I'd be told to piss off, and not in a nice way either. For giggles, this is what it looked like when I took it off. Keep in mind I only drove it ONE day like that.

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And to get back on track PSC did overnight a builder hose kit to me. I ended up not using it because I had the kit hoses cut down but that's solid customer service in my book. Even if they need to update some of their literature.

I also tried bleeding the system again. Not even a single pimple bubble came up so I'm good there. Moab hotels are opening back up so I'm heading over on Wednesday for a few days of wheeling.
 
The next one is in a year when their tie rod end goes out, and you find the replacement END is well over $200, and you realize that if one is bad the other one will be soon. Nothing else fits because theirs is special.

I'm running Bubba's 7075 aluminum with GM one ton ends, and you can get them at the local auto parts store for $40.

As far as the bracket eating your spring perch, is your axle pushed forward too far?

Ugh. Don't tell me that news.

And yeah, my axle is pushed forward but not too far I don't think. I have the measurement somewhere. It's what Tera Flex recommends for a 2 door for my lift. I was actually going to push it a little bit further to try and get a little more caster to see if I could improve the handling. I'm at 5.3 degrees right now.
 
Ugh. Don't tell me that news.

And yeah, my axle is pushed forward but not too far I don't think. I have the measurement somewhere. It's what Tera Flex recommends for a 2 door for my lift. I was actually going to push it a little bit further to try and get a little more caster to see if I could improve the handling. I'm at 5.3 degrees right now.

I assume you are talking about the Track bar bracket and the front corner of the spring perch. I’ve had to grind down the spring perch a hair to get it to clear.


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
 
I had the same issue with the Synergy bracket. I just notched a little of the spring perch and a little off the back ribs of the bracket.
 

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