Rear Sway Bar Questions

You'll be fine. It's rare but the torsion bar itself can break. The most annoying thing about them is how they squeak like a banshee. That being said, where they shine is if you do a lot of bombing across the desert. Mel likes having one because he races EVO 1 at KOH. For fast driving, being connected and running a stiffer rear sway bar is great to have.
Yeah I can see that happening especially if it's not setup right. As far as the squeaking my front is dead quiet but my rear creaks like a bastard when I flex lol.

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You'll be fine. It's rare but the torsion bar itself can break. The most annoying thing about them is how they squeak like a banshee. That being said, where they shine is if you do a lot of bombing across the desert. Mel likes having one because he races EVO 1 at KOH. For fast driving, being connected and running a stiffer rear sway bar is great to have.
I have heard that being a little stiffer they help to fill up holes faster at high speed on bumpy terrain. I assume that also means you need to have your rebound dialed in pretty solid as well.
 
This is all exactly my point, the sway bar obviously is great on your Jeep's setup. But what's important is the specific Jeep the question was about.

@Peterzampa1 - I assume you are seeing your travel being limited? When and how much? Or is it just a guess at this point and you're looking for ideas?

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This is with the sway bar disconnected. It struggled with the bar connected.



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Also if I was to tuck the passenger side up (I am RHD) the sway bar at the link would rub on the rails.


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The sway are is only held in by the rubber bushing on the frame rails, the bar could be shifted to one side more than the other. Are you sure your axle is centered under the Jeep with the trackbar just right? If not it could be pulling it to one side.

Poser shot of me on an rti with the anti rock rear, coil springs and short arms. plenty of flex so I can't imagine the thin oem stock swaybar limiting anything
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Woah check it out, my stock rear sway bar is still connected! Annnndddd wait for it! I'm also on 3" terra flex coils at the moment, which are known for being stiff. Neither of those are what stopped my axle from drooping any further.
 
Am I the only one that thinks 1" bump stops on 3.5" coils is not enough. I have 3" up front and 2.5" bump stops in the rear and I had to trim quite a bit to keep my tires from getting shredded. Plus I would think those coils would go solid.
Im running 4" bumps all around. Rock Krawler 3.5" X factor, king shocks, 37s.

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Hmm... I decided to driveway flex the rear to see how much my rear sway bar is limiting me...I'm not cool enough for the stacked tire test... but I found... the shocks and bump stops are in fact limiting my flex... should I remove them first? :crazyeyes:

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Couldn't Quite Get There

Holy thread revival, Batman!

So, after wading through this thread I figured I'd try and help out here. And, I was nearly able to, but not quite. I'll share what I ended up with anyway.

I have a 2016 JKU with the tow package and 35's and the 6-Pak suspension. I wanted to see how far I could get the rear end to stuff/droop. Unfortunately the terrain in my front yard wouldn't allow me to get the rear suspension drooped all the way. For the point I'm at (which is a long way from full extension/compression) the sway bar is not a limiting factor at all:

Here's the jeep flexed out as much as I could get it with the terrain I had to hand. This is by no means full flex.
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Here's the rear shock. There's still plenty of shock and spring compression available - I couldn't get it to fully stuff because there wasn't a severe enough angle. I think I need to find a ramp to drive up.

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When I'm able to find the right terrain to get the rear axle at full droop I'll update the thread - and then everyone will know (at least for this setup) if the rear sway bar limits the travel of the suspension (which, for the record, I don't believe it does).

And, to clarify something about this suspension for people that are not familiar with it - there is more up-travel than a standard shock. Therefore, even with a 3.5" lift I am able to run 2" of bump stop at the front (with minor rubbing on the top of the plastic fender) and 1" at the rear (with no rubbing). I'm not saying this is better or worse than other suspension systems out there - merely that it is set up differently from a standard shock. As you can see from the (sideways) picture below - I'm on the front bump stop and still have some spring compression available.

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