Tie-rod and drag link question

[NME]

So my tie-rod is just slapping around at the ends and I don't know if my drag link is even bad, but I am curious to whether or not I can replace the tie-rod now and get the drag link later? Or is it important to replace them both if they're both bad? I have 140k miles with a 3" lift on 37's and still running the factory rubi drag link. Almost every video I see people replacing the tie rod they are replacing the drag link at the same time.

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[WJCO]

So my tie-rod is just slapping around at the ends and I don't know if my drag link is even bad, but I am curious to whether or not I can replace the tie-rod now and get the drag link later? Or is it important to replace them both if they're both bad? I have 140k miles with a 3" lift on 37's and still running the factory rubi drag link. Almost every video I see people replacing the tie rod they are replacing the drag link at the same time.

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If it flops around while you rotate it with your hand, that's normal. But if someone starts the jeep and turns the wheels back and forth and you can see the tie rod joints popping (like there is excessive play), then they're bad. You do not have to replace the tie rod and drag link at the same time.

 

[NME]

If it flops around while you rotate it with your hand, that's normal. But if someone starts the jeep and turns the wheels back and forth and you can see the tie rod joints popping (like there is excessive play), then they're bad. You do not have to replace the tie rod and drag link at the same time.

Thanks for response. The tie rod is definitely bad. Not sure about the drag link.

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[TrailHunter]

Thanks for response. The tie rod is definitely bad. Not sure about the drag link.

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140k on it... with a 3” lift & 37’s...I’d do it.. it can only make things better.

 

[wjtstudios]

^^this. You will at some point in the near future anyway, might as well do it

Check out fusion. I’ve beat the hell out of mine and they are still straight


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler

 

[Bullwinckle]

If it flops around while you rotate it with your hand, that's normal.

That’s what she said... [emoji23]

 

[denvermatt]

I can't believe you went that long with the factory draglink and tie rod with a lift and larger tires. Mine died at about 20k. You can replace them seperate. People do the tie rod drag link together since there's always a discounted price if you buy both in a "kit". I would recommend going to a larger style tie rod and drag link. Specifically one with 1 ton tie rod ends (the draglink will also say "tre" Tie Rod Ends. Anyone of the 1 ton tie rod and drag link kit will work. I have the 1 ton aluminum tie rod and draglink kit from rpm steering. it works but all the 1ton aluminum kits run (pretty much) the same tie rod ends

 

[kevman65]

If you're replacing the tie-rod, then might as well do the drag link.

If not you'll have to drop the passenger side of the tie-rod to get old drag link out and new one in.

Went through this with my JT as the drag link was back ordered when I got tie-rod and track bar. So I had to undo work and put up on jacks and take off tires twice.

 

[ssh6314]

Do you have to, no, but you might as well, it looks better, will perform better etc. and its a pain install to do them separately.

As far as brands I second Fusion4x4, there 2.5 ton kit is the best I've seen or used, and a no BS warranty on everything.