Regearing? An age old question..But wait, there's more.. how's your oil filter?

13stocjohn

New member
So I currently have a 6 speed 2 door sport with 33s with the standard 3.21s. I really want to move up in tire size, most likely to 35s. From what I’m seeing, it seems like 4.88 gears would do the trick but how would the new gears work with the 33s I have for now? What should I expect with 4.88s and 33s? Should I not go with 4.88s or even not regear at all?


Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

19YJ94

Caught the Bug
I am currently on 35s with a 6 speed 2 door (3.21), it's really not that bad and mine is a 2011 so I have the 3.8, I plan in going to 4.88 later.

But then again I don't live in a really hilly area. [emoji848]



Sent from my SM-S506DL using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

13stocjohn

New member
I am currently on 35s with a 6 speed 2 door (3.21), it's really not that bad and mine is a 2011 so I have the 3.8, I plan in going to 4.88 later.

But then again I don't live in a really hilly area. [emoji848]



Sent from my SM-S506DL using WAYALIFE mobile app

I get that. I used to be stationed near VA beach with nothing but flat and now I’m living in Morgantown WV while in school and every road seems to go up, down and twist.

I definitely noticed a difference off the line when I moved from my stock wheels and tires and into 33s on steel wheels living here. You brought up another good question though



Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

DarinM

New member
So I currently have a 6 speed 2 door sport with 33s with the standard 3.21s. I really want to move up in tire size, most likely to 35s. From what I’m seeing, it seems like 4.88 gears would do the trick but how would the new gears work with the 33s I have for now? What should I expect with 4.88s and 33s? Should I not go with 4.88s or even not regear at all?


Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE mobile app

My experience is based on my 07 JKU Sahara on 35" BFGs and factory 4:11 gears. My decision to go with 5:13 was based on my occasional need to tow and the low power of the 3.8 and the extra weight of the 4 door, bumper winch etc.

I'm very happy with 5:13 ratio in my situation.

Only you can determine what you need. Towing, terrain etc can affect the requirements.

In my opinion, you could easily go 4:88s now with 33" tires then upgrade to 35" once ready. Depending on which tire you chose the actual tire height may not be much of a difference. Also depending on which tire you choose, the cost wont be too far apart (Tires vs. gears).
 

DanW

Member
What would one expect to pay typically for installation? I would buy the rings/pinions myself. (Dana/Spicer). I'm assuming it wouldn't be anymore complicated with a Rubi with lockers. I'm thinking about 4.88's, mainly to help 5th and 6th gear along a little, as well as reverse.
 

CalSgt

Hooked
What would one expect to pay typically for installation? I would buy the rings/pinions myself. (Dana/Spicer). I'm assuming it wouldn't be anymore complicated with a Rubi with lockers. I'm thinking about 4.88's, mainly to help 5th and 6th gear along a little, as well as reverse.
I highly recommend running whatever brand gears the shop doing the install recommends and buying from them. go to a shop that specializes in gears, many of them run specials that include the price of the gears and bearings.
I’m a fan of spicer stuff and I did spicer gears on mine but I did them myself.
 
If youre having a shop do the work, have the shop get the parts, often they get them cheaper than you anyways, but more important theyll warranty their work, not blame it on the gear company if something blows up. Also, you wont hurt anything at all with lil tires and better gearing, you'll just shift at different points. and be able to use 6th again on the highway. although you dont have substantially bigger tires than stock so you probably can still do that now.
 

DanW

Member
If youre having a shop do the work, have the shop get the parts, often they get them cheaper than you anyways, but more important theyll warranty their work, not blame it on the gear company if something blows up. Also, you wont hurt anything at all with lil tires and better gearing, you'll just shift at different points. and be able to use 6th again on the highway. although you dont have substantially bigger tires than stock so you probably can still do that now.
I can run 6th, but it did a little better with the 315 KO2's than with the 35" Grabber X3's. The X3's have very slightly larger (probably 0.4 or 0.3 of an inch) diameter but the rolling resistance as a mud tire is noticeably greater than the AT tread on the K02. I typically go to 6th at 65mph whereas with the KO2's I went to it at 60mph. I love the ratios for 1-4, but 5 and 6 are just wrong. 6th should have the ratio of 5, and then 5 and 4 could space tigher with 3. None of it is a major annoyance. Really just barely enough to make me think of regearing.

So you think they can beat $600 for the ring/pinion set? I know they can get them cheaper, but I'd think that shops get some of their profit margin there, too.
 
I can run 6th, but it did a little better with the 315 KO2's than with the 35" Grabber X3's. The X3's have very slightly larger (probably 0.4 or 0.3 of an inch) diameter but the rolling resistance as a mud tire is noticeably greater than the AT tread on the K02. I typically go to 6th at 65mph whereas with the KO2's I went to it at 60mph. I love the ratios for 1-4, but 5 and 6 are just wrong. 6th should have the ratio of 5, and then 5 and 4 could space tigher with 3. None of it is a major annoyance. Really just barely enough to make me think of regearing.

So you think they can beat $600 for the ring/pinion set? I know they can get them cheaper, but I'd think that shops get some of their profit margin there, too.
I haven’t used 5th gear in my tj in years, so I think you’re fine if they still work. And yes If you can get them that cheap they can also get them that cheap. Call for quotes. I didn’t read if you have lockers or not but if you want the time is now.
 

DanW

Member
I haven’t used 5th gear in my tj in years, so I think you’re fine if they still work. And yes If you can get them that cheap they can also get them that cheap. Call for quotes. I didn’t read if you have lockers or not but if you want the time is now.
It's a Rubi, so it has them. Thanks for the advice!
 

CalSgt

Hooked
So you think they can beat $600 for the ring/pinion set? I know they can get them cheaper, but I'd think that shops get some of their profit margin there, too.
Like snowboarder says get quotes….

If I had a shop I would probably not install parts you bought elsewhere. Gear shops invest money in having tooling, shims, bearings and set up bearings on hand to make the job go right with less time invested. Someone waning to nickel and dime the retail cost of parts can go down the road and find someone else to do the install. There’s also the issue of customers showing up with wrong or damaged parts, when it’s the shops fault they pay for the lost time and revenue, when it’s your fault they will bill shop rate for for your mistake. I would rather send you away than have to bill you for your mistakes
 

DanW

Member
Like snowboarder says get quotes….

If I had a shop I would probably not install parts you bought elsewhere. Gear shops invest money in having tooling, shims, bearings and set up bearings on hand to make the job go right with less time invested. Someone waning to nickel and dime the retail cost of parts can go down the road and find someone else to do the install. There’s also the issue of customers showing up with wrong or damaged parts, when it’s the shops fault they pay for the lost time and revenue, when it’s your fault they will bill shop rate for for your mistake. I would rather send you away than have to bill you for your mistakes
Well, I guess a business owner can do what they want. But so can I.

I have many times bought parts because I wanted exactly what I wanted and not what the shop wants to sell. For example, I take our Transit van for oil changes and I bring my own Mobil 1 EP. Because they want to sell me bulk Castrol and no-name bulk cheap filters and I don't like Castrol, I don't trust the quality of bulk oil, and I want Fram Utra filters. They don't seem to have an issue taking my money and always seem happy when I come in. I also did the same for brakes on that vehicle and for a couple others. Specifically rotors and pads they did not offer. Again, they had no issue with that. In fact, the last time I let a shop put their own recommended brake pads/rotors on, they put what they claimed were premium parts of a brand I did not recognize and gave me a speech on how good they were. The shit lasted half as long as the previous Wagoner Thermoquiets I brought in, and coated my wheels with much more brake diust that also caused pitting on the finish. At the end of the day, I'll get what I want or I'll go somewhere else.

That said, the local 4x4 gear shop I would use would likely have no problem either getting me exactly what I want or if I brought it. But each to his own. They do have a good rep and he rebuilt my YJ axles years ago and did an outstanding job. So if he recommends something, I'll be more likely to trust him and let him get them.
 

run2jeepn

Caught the Bug
I think 4.56 would be the sweet spot for those tire sizes.

I have a Auto on 37s. They are worn down. So closer to a 35in tire. I had 4.88s and it would down shift on every hill. I re-geared to 5.38s and its much better. I can hold lower RPMs on the hills without dropping and downshifting. At 70mph am at about 2500 rpms. I drive 60 ot 65 on the highways and with a little city driving. I'm just over 16mpg. With more city driving and pulling my small trailer. It will drop down to 14.5mpg.

I'm just basing the 4.56 option off where my RPM range was for me. So the 6spd at 70mph for 4.56 is around 2500 rpms.

4.88s and 33s puts you at 3000 rpm at 70 mph.
 
Last edited:

desertrunner

Active Member
I have a 12 sport 6 speed 2dr that originally had 3.21s. I put it on 33s and drove that way for a bit before doing my PR44 and set it up with 4.88s. ran 4.88s and 33s for 6 months or so and while I think it's a little over geared it's wasn't miserable by any means. You get into 3rd fairly quick and I don't hardly ever drive over 70mph so the top end revs wasn't an issue. I much prefered the 33s on 4.88s over the 3.21s so I don't think you will be disappointed. I am now currently on 37s and the 4.88s are just a tad short of what I would like so I think they will be perfect with 35s.
Most of this is subjective but I'd say go for it my experience with 33s and 4.88s was just fine and it should fit nice on 35s
 

jesse3638

Hooked
Well, I guess a business owner can do what they want. But so can I.

I have many times bought parts because I wanted exactly what I wanted and not what the shop wants to sell. For example, I take our Transit van for oil changes and I bring my own Mobil 1 EP. Because they want to sell me bulk Castrol and no-name bulk cheap filters and I don't like Castrol, I don't trust the quality of bulk oil, and I want Fram Utra filters. They don't seem to have an issue taking my money and always seem happy when I come in. I also did the same for brakes on that vehicle and for a couple others. Specifically rotors and pads they did not offer. Again, they had no issue with that. In fact, the last time I let a shop put their own recommended brake pads/rotors on, they put what they claimed were premium parts of a brand I did not recognize and gave me a speech on how good they were. The shit lasted half as long as the previous Wagoner Thermoquiets I brought in, and coated my wheels with much more brake diust that also caused pitting on the finish. At the end of the day, I'll get what I want or I'll go somewhere else.

That said, the local 4x4 gear shop I would use would likely have no problem either getting me exactly what I want or if I brought it. But each to his own. They do have a good rep and he rebuilt my YJ axles years ago and did an outstanding job. So if he recommends something, I'll be more likely to trust him and let him get them.
That might be fine with the services you suggested. I talked to the owner who did my gears and said he wouldn't install anything I brought in for the exact reasons CalSgt listed. If you go to a reputable shop who knows what they are doing then I'd trust what they are using. Why try to save a hundred bucks on a job that's going to cost you $1500-$2000 anyways? Find a solid shop and let them do their work. Chances are they know better than you. That is evident by your choice in oil filters.
 
Last edited:
That might be fine with the services you suggested. I talked to the owner who did my gears and said he wouldn't install anything I brought in for the exact reasons CalSgt listed. If you go to a reputable shop who knows what they are doing then I'd trust what they are using. Why try to save a hundred bucks on a job that's going to cost you $1500-$2000 anyways? Find a solid shop and let them do their work. Chances are they know better than you. That is evident by your choice in oil filters.
Whoa I skipped right over that. You’re the first one I’ve ever read about that actually WANTS a fram filter. Nope nope nope. Never nada nein niet no.
 

DanW

Member
That might be fine with the services you suggested. I talked to the owner who did my gears and said he wouldn't install anything I brought in for the exact reasons CalSgt listed. If you go to a reputable shop who knows what they are doing then I'd trust what they are using. Why try to save a hundred bucks on a job that's going to cost you $1500-$2000 anyways? Find a solid shop and let them do their work. Chances are they know better than you. That is evident by your choice in oil filters.
Lol, show me a filter that outperforms a Fram Ultra using standardized tests. None come close. None. Bet the one you are using doesn't. Heck, most don't even match the cheap Fram Extraguard.

A few hundred bucks is up to 20%. That's significant. If it was more like 5%, I wouldn't bother unless they are using gear sets that I consider to be cheap.

I know of two shops here that I'd trust my Jeep to. I'll go with their recommendation. I suspect they'll use one of the brands I'd choose. But they will have to compete. My guess is that they will.
 

jesse3638

Hooked
Lol, show me a filter that outperforms a Fram Ultra using standardized tests. None come close. None. Bet the one you are using doesn't. Heck, most don't even match the cheap Fram Extraguard.

A few hundred bucks is up to 20%. That's significant. If it was more like 5%, I wouldn't bother unless they are using gear sets that I consider to be cheap.

I know of two shops here that I'd trust my Jeep to. I'll go with their recommendation. I suspect they'll use one of the brands I'd choose. But they will have to compete. My guess is that they will.
There is a reason Mopar will void your warranty for using any filters besides theirs. I personally saw a Fram airfilter get sucked into the intake of a ram 2500. It may filter better but not allowing the required flow for the motor to operate properly is just as bad as no filter. As for competing for your business. This industry is few and far between. If I was the owner I'd tell you to go pound sand. Labor rates are pretty firm and parts are where the profits are. Just like good customer service goes a long way good customers make good customer service easier to provide. I can tell you'd be a headache for along time after. Good luck on your adventure.

BTW: 2021 Best Oil Filters
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom