Rear Sway Bar Angle and End Link Length

mphilleo

Member
I've been spending some time down the rabbit hole and am getting the impression things aren't quite right with my rear end setup. Funny enough, I've had my Jeep at an 4x4 specialized alignment shop, multiple times, and a 4x4 shop, none of which said anything about how things were looking back there. After some research, it sounds like the general consensus is to aim for 3-5° +/- off of 0° for the angle of the rear sway bar. I did some rough measuring last night and I'm showing about -11.5° downward rake on the sway bar, which is definitely in excess of that measure. You can see it pretty easily and the end links are raked forward.

My question is, for those who know, can I simply unbolt the end links, straighten them up, rotate my rear sway bar, and reconnect them? Or do I need to consider a rear sway bar relocation kit and/or adjustable sway bar links? I'd prefer to use the existing frame mounts and not to tap into the frame to relocate the bar if possible. Insights are appreciated and pictures are below:

348356905_1369950497182134_248975143592635645_n.jpg 348356905_1369950497182134_248975143592635645_n.jpg
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I'm not entirely sure what you are seeing as a problem but what you should be concerned with is at a full droop, your link ends look like they will rub against the sidewalls of your tires.
 

mphilleo

Member
I'm not entirely sure what you are seeing as a problem but what you should be concerned with is at a full droop, your link ends look like they will rub against the sidewalls of your tires.
I guess based on my understanding of how it should be set up, or at least per some manufacturers like JKS, is that angle on the sway bar shouldn't be greater or less than +/-5°. I occasionally get a clunk from the rear when turning at almost full lock (like a U-turn or backing out of a parking space sharply). Based on my observations I'm guessing it's either the rear coil springs or something with my sway bar/links.

Typically, I don't get to full droop unless I've got it on a lift getting worked on. The tire shop I went to before had me check it out on the lift while they were inspecting it and the track bar drew the axle all the way to the driver's side. From what I understand, that's normal. If it's not, I'm not really sure what to do about it. Here's a picture from when it was on the lift:

348357186_991781612192850_1371853909662107762_n.jpg
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I guess based on my understanding of how it should be set up, or at least per some manufacturers like JKS, is that angle on the sway bar shouldn't be greater or less than +/-5°. I occasionally get a clunk from the rear when turning at almost full lock (like a U-turn or backing out of a parking space sharply). Based on my observations I'm guessing it's either the rear coil springs or something with my sway bar/links.

Typically, I don't get to full droop unless I've got it on a lift getting worked on. The tire shop I went to before had me check it out on the lift while they were inspecting it and the track bar drew the axle all the way to the driver's side. From what I understand, that's normal. If it's not, I'm not really sure what to do about it. Here's a picture from when it was on the lift:

View attachment 389518
There is NOTHING normal about what you're seeing and THAT is what I was referring to. In fact, what you're hearing is most likely your sway bar end link making contact with your wheel when you're making a turn as the body of your Jeep leans over during that turn. What you really need here are wheel spacers or new wheels with less back spacing.

Regarding what manufacturers recommend regarding the sway bar arm angle, this is to help prevent the over extension of your links at a full flex. What you need are longer links to help prevent that but of course, you cannot run longer links with your current wheels.
 

mphilleo

Member
There is NOTHING normal about what you're seeing and THAT is what I was referring to. In fact, what you're hearing is most likely your sway bar end link making contact with your wheel when you're making a turn as the body of your Jeep leans over during that turn. What you really need here are wheel spacers or new wheels with less back spacing.

Regarding what manufacturers recommend regarding the sway bar arm angle, this is to help prevent the over extension of your links at a full flex. What you need are longer links to help prevent that but of course, you cannot run longer links with your current wheels.
Thank you for the confirmation. So, what I'm getting out of this, is that even though I'm running stock size tires (255/75/R17) on the stock wheels, those are simply incompatible with whatever lift (appears to be ~3") the previous owner installed? And I would have 3 choices:

1.) Install wheel spacers
2.) Get different wheels with more positive offset
3.) Reduce or uninstall the lift

Just want to make sure I'm understanding the situation properly instead of Band-Aid fixes. :)
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Thank you for the confirmation. So, what I'm getting out of this, is that even though I'm running stock size tires (255/75/R17) on the stock wheels, those are simply incompatible with whatever lift (appears to be ~3") the previous owner installed? And I would have 3 choices:

1.) Install wheel spacers
2.) Get different wheels with more positive offset
3.) Reduce or uninstall the lift

Just want to make sure I'm understanding the situation properly instead of Band-Aid fixes. :)
Correct.
 
Thank you for the confirmation. So, what I'm getting out of this, is that even though I'm running stock size tires (255/75/R17) on the stock wheels, those are simply incompatible with whatever lift (appears to be ~3") the previous owner installed? And I would have 3 choices:

1.) Install wheel spacers
2.) Get different wheels with more positive offset
3.) Reduce or uninstall the lift

Just want to make sure I'm understanding the situation properly instead of Band-Aid fixes. :)
Maybe the track bar length/position is wrong, and causing the whole axel housing to be shifted to one side?
 

mphilleo

Member
Maybe the track bar length/position is wrong, and causing the whole axel housing to be shifted to one side?
It's certainly a possibility. I kind of cheaped out and got a basic Rough Country adjustable rear track bar (it had the stock one prior) and took it to the alignment shop (put on the same brand adjustable front too) to have the axles aligned. When I came to the alignment shop with the 3rd picture I posted of the swaybar link bolt contacting the rim at full droop, he said it's expected because that's the natural direction the track bar will pull the axle over. I'll be honest, most of what I understand is based on my experience (not that much) and whatever I can glean from forums. I've gotten a fair amount of conflicting information, so I don't know what to think anymore.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Here's how I knew what I was looking at. Look familiar?

20230426094438-e43e5693.jpg
 

mphilleo

Member
Negative. I can tell you with 100% certainty and from personal experience testing things like this out that this is a condition created by too much lift while running factory wheels and tires.
It's definitely appreciated to get some direct experience on this. I mistakenly assumed anything is possible if you maintain stock wheel and tire sizes, but it looks like it might not be that simple.
 

mphilleo

Member
@wayoflife I was going to add, if I install 1.25 or 1.5 inch wheel spacers, would I need to mess with my rear sway bar or end links? I wonder if I'd be able to straighten them out or if I'd benefit from adjustable sway bar links, etc?

I'm thinking about going with these Teraflex 1.25" spacers. I want enough to get the job done, but nothing more than necessary. They seem to be a good option.

 
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OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
@wayoflife I was going to add, if I install 1.25 or 1.5 inch wheel spacers, would I need to mess with my rear sway bar or end links? I wonder if I'd be able to straighten them out or if I'd benefit from adjustable sway bar links, etc?

I'm thinking about going with these Teraflex 1.25" spacers. I want enough to get the job done, but nothing more than necessary. They seem to be a good option.

1.5” minimum. You don’t want to be grinding down your factory wheel studs. Read their install instructions. And I also wouldn’t run anything but spidertrax spacers.
 
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