Rear Drive Shaft Advice

Seahawkfan

Hooked
Soon (or one of these days) I will be installing my EVO Bolt-on CO's. I have decided to finally match the front J.E Reel 1350 by adding one to the rear.
First. Description says 4.5 or more lift DS should be measured and ordered to fit. I plan on keeping it as low as possible. I would like to be 3.5 lift range. So is it safe to say this is the correct DS ?
Second. When installing I'm a little concerned about changing out the rear pinion yoke. I don't really understand all the rotational torque specs. Should I be concerned?, is there a DIY for dummies posted anywhere? A recommended torque wrench I would have to have? Or anything else I would need? Thanks in advance.
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-AINOKEA-

Hooked
Soon (or one of these days) I will be installing my EVO Bolt-on CO's. I have decided to finally match the front J.E Reel 1350 by adding one to the rear.
First. Description says 4.5 or more lift DS should be measured and ordered to fit. I plan on keeping it as low as possible. I would like to be 3.5 lift range. So is it safe to say this is the correct DS ?
Second. When installing I'm a little concerned about changing out the rear pinion yoke. I don't really understand all the rotational torque specs. Should I be concerned?, is there a DIY for dummies posted anywhere? A recommended torque wrench I would have to have? Or anything else I would need? Thanks in advance.
View attachment 361413
Before you remove the pinion nut, Mark a line going down over the threads and nut to get the azimuth, then count how many threads are exposed. There’s no real torque as it’s determined when setting the gears. Making sure the nut is placed exactly where it was will help make sure the crush sleeve is where it originally was as much as possible.... at least I think that’s how it works. Lol. Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in. Can’t speak for that driveshaft as I haven’t replaced the rear on mine yet.
 
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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Soon (or one of these days) I will be installing my EVO Bolt-on CO's. I have decided to finally match the front J.E Reel 1350 by adding one to the rear.
First. Description says 4.5 or more lift DS should be measured and ordered to fit. I plan on keeping it as low as possible. I would like to be 3.5 lift range. So is it safe to say this is the correct DS ?
Second. When installing I'm a little concerned about changing out the rear pinion yoke. I don't really understand all the rotational torque specs. Should I be concerned?, is there a DIY for dummies posted anywhere? A recommended torque wrench I would have to have? Or anything else I would need? Thanks in advance.
View attachment 361413
I would install your lift, drive it around a bit to let everything settle in and then take a measurement to see what you really need. Call up JE Reel and let them know what you need. That's the best way to get it right.

With that said, yes, you should be concerned. It is way too easy to over crush a crush sleeve and that will lead to more problems than you'll want. This video should help out.


However, you will need a high end inch lb torque wrench to do it this way.
 
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Seahawkfan

Hooked
Before you remove the pinion nut, Mark a line going down over the threads and nut to get the azimuth, then count how many threads are exposed. There’s no real torque as it’s determined when setting the gears. Making sure the nut is placed exactly where it was will help make sure the crush sleeve is where it originally was as much as possible.... at least I think that’s how it works. Lol. Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in. Can’t speak for that driveshaft as I haven’t replaced the rear on mine yet.
Ok so I assume all pinion yokes are the same thickness? Thanks
 
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Seahawkfan

Hooked
I would install your lift, drive it around a bit to let everything settle in and then take a measurement to see what you really need. Call up JE Reel and let them know what you need. That's the best way to get it right.

With that said, yes, you should be concerned. It is way too easy to over crush a crush sleeve and that will lead to more problems than you'll want. This video should help out.


However, you will need a high end inch lb torque wrench to do it this way.
Ok so run it on the OEM DS then measure and call them and see if the off the shelf is correct. Cool. Any links to that high end torque wrench. I assume something digital so I read what it is already set at? Thanks
 
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Seahawkfan

Hooked
Same thickness? You mean in terms of the pinion nut depth? If so, not exactly. When going from the factory flange to an aftermarket yoke, there will be a difference.
Yes that's why I asked. He said count and mark exposed threads, so the new yoke would have to be the same thickness as factory flange. I think I have read somewhere in the past that this is a technique used.
 
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rubiDave

Active Member
Soon (or one of these days) I will be installing my EVO Bolt-on CO's. I have decided to finally match the front J.E Reel 1350 by adding one to the rear.
First. Description says 4.5 or more lift DS should be measured and ordered to fit. I plan on keeping it as low as possible. I would like to be 3.5 lift range. So is it safe to say this is the correct DS ?
Second. When installing I'm a little concerned about changing out the rear pinion yoke. I don't really understand all the rotational torque specs. Should I be concerned?, is there a DIY for dummies posted anywhere? A recommended torque wrench I would have to have? Or anything else I would need? Thanks in advance.
View attachment 361413
Here's the way I did it.
I bought one of those dial inch oz torque wrenches and pinion yoke wrench ends. Before removing the old nut I measured the rotational torque of the pinion(wheels and brake calipers off). Then removed the old nut and yoke and replaced with the new ones - be sure to use a new nut too. I set the nut with an impact on low, just till bottomed then measured the rotational torque. I used a breaker bar on the yoke with the handle against the floor and a big torque wrench set at 140 ft lbs and torqued the nut incrementally measuring rotational torque as I went along. The 140 setting was to keep from accidentally over torqueing initially. I kept torqueing the nut until the pinion rotational torque was +5 in oz from the old setup. I think it took 153 ft lbs to get there for me.
 
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Seahawkfan

Hooked
Here's the way I did it.
I bought one of those dial inch oz torque wrenches and pinion yoke wrench ends. Before removing the old nut I measured the rotational torque of the pinion(wheels and brake calipers off). Then removed the old nut and yoke and replaced with the new ones - be sure to use a new nut too. I set the nut with an impact on low, just till bottomed then measured the rotational torque. I used a breaker bar on the yoke with the handle against the floor and a big torque wrench set at 140 ft lbs and torqued the nut incrementally measuring rotational torque as I went along. The 140 setting was to keep from accidentally over torqueing initially. I kept torqueing the nut until the pinion rotational torque was +5 in oz from the old setup. I think it took 153 ft lbs to get there for me.
Cool thanks. When I finally do the swap I will definitely come back and reread all this.😵 I think this is the new crazy eyes... What is oz ??
 
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fiend

Caught the Bug
Here's the way I did it.
I bought one of those dial inch oz torque wrenches and pinion yoke wrench ends. Before removing the old nut I measured the rotational torque of the pinion(wheels and brake calipers off). Then removed the old nut and yoke and replaced with the new ones - be sure to use a new nut too. I set the nut with an impact on low, just till bottomed then measured the rotational torque. I used a breaker bar on the yoke with the handle against the floor and a big torque wrench set at 140 ft lbs and torqued the nut incrementally measuring rotational torque as I went along. The 140 setting was to keep from accidentally over torqueing initially. I kept torqueing the nut until the pinion rotational torque was +5 in oz from the old setup. I think it took 153 ft lbs to get there for me.
As I recall I just torqued the nut to 160 ft-lbs and called it a day. That worked fine for maybe a year and then I regeared.
 
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rubiDave

Active Member
Cool thanks. When I finally do the swap I will definitely come back and reread all this.😵 I think this is the new crazy eyes... What is oz ??
Sorry, had ounces in my head from mixing cocktails. Inch pounds, not inch ounces for the dial torque wrench. Mine is 0-30 in-lb and I think 1/4 inch drive, so you have to stack adapters for the big pinion nut socket.
 
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