I picked up the poison spyder rear crossmember. I'm going to diy install it soon maybe this weekend if weather holds up. Anyone here do it before and got any tips or help for it. Seems really straight forward and easy. Any one tow with it? I mainly got the hitch so I can use my basket for coolers and such. I might tow a small trailer in the future.
poison spyder rear crossmember
- Thread starter Wert7676
- Start date
hinrichs
Caught the Bug
Just went on their site to see what this was, dont know anyone running it. I personally would never want to cut out my stock rear crossmember, but this does look kinda good. Sad its not rated for towing however, so for that part of your question, I would never use it for anything other than a basket. Makes more sense to just get the stock tow hitch that actually works, and go with an evo fascia or something to cover the rear and not ruin your frame. Just my :twocents:
Ddays
Hooked
^^ This:
Plus this from their website:
"By itself or used in conjunction with the JK BFH™ II Rear Bumper, this "Built For the Hammers" crossmember strengthens the Jeep JK Wrangler's rear frame when trimmed for maximum ground clearance and departure angle. Includes a built-in hitch receiver (not rated for towing)."
If the stock rear cross member is rated for 3500# towing capacity, how is one NOT rated to any capacity whatsoever an upgrade strength-wise?
EDIT: I would not tow anything with this as you stated you wanted to do - you'd be opening up yourself to some serious liability issues if something bad happens. Especially since they specifically state that it is not rated for towing.
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Couldn't agree with you more. I have no idea why anyone would want to cut off a boxed in, structural part of their frame especially when doing so is known to cause as much as 1/2" of frame distortion. And for what, to install a new cross member that isn't even tow rated? Guess I don't wheel hard enough to understand how beneficial that little bit of extra clearance you get is needed.
catahoula
Caught the Bug
Isn't the front boxed in before cutting when installing EVO 1/4 pounder ?
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EVO 1/4 pounder is a front bumper and it only requires that you cut off the chin that your air dam is mounted to. The frame rails stay intact.
Ddays
Hooked
Here are some pics of what it looks like and the frame. The oem crossmember is made out of some thin sheet maybe 16 gauge. The new one is all twice as thick. I'm probably going to need to modify the exhaust first. I've been wanting to do it anyways. My guess on why it isn't rated is because it is weld on and they can't guarantee that I do a good job. The oem one is bolt up so it is easy to guarantee. Most bumpers if not all that have integrated hitches don't rate them for towing. My smittybilt wasn't. I can always jack the jeep up by the ball and load test it.
I just went out and measured and the cross member is more like 14 gauge and just because the new cross member is twice as thick doesn't mean the rest of your frame is. Just sayin.
Maybe... maybe not. You can guess all you want but the only thing we know for a fact, it's that the factory cross member IS tow rated.
The factory hitch is a 1/4" formed/welded bracket that bolts across the cross member. Jeep can give it a tow rating because the bracket is bolted to that boxed in and structural cross member. The one they designed.
At least most of them are bolted to the factory frame and cross member. Still, I'm not sure if I'd trust many of them them but then, that's just me. Sounds like you've convinced yourself that you'll be fine so more power to you.
Ddays
Hooked
Hmmm. Don't see any drag marks on your cross member or bolted on hitch. Tailpipe looks unscathed. shock mounts look good. Dosen't seem like you have any clearance issues so far?
Why cut an integrated structural member of your frame off? Your Jeep so feel free to tell me to FO, but there are some things I just wouldn't touch. This is one of them. :twocents:
I used to have a smittybilt plate bumper. And I would get hung up on it. Tail pipe has a dent on the top from being pushed up into the frame. I took some pictures of it. I also have a damaged shock/control arm mount. You can see where the paint is rubbed of the bottom of the oem hitch from sliding off of stuff. But no major damage.
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As for why do it. One i like the look. I like to work on my truck. I do hit that part of the frame.
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Ddays
Hooked
Then by all means do it. My main point was a liability one. After all, its your Jeep. But no way would I haul a trailer with something that specifically says its not rated to tow. Will it? Sure, and I'd be willing to put money down that it would and do just fine. But what if it does fail and someone gets hurt? YOU are on the hook my friend, not Poison Spyder, and not your insurance company.
Edit: and I wasn't questioning how hard you wheel - I was only pointing out that it's not like your undercarriage is all beat to shit so bad that you need extra clearance or protection.
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Nothing wrong with installing something because you like the way it looks or because you like working on your Jeep. You were the one inquiring about "towing" and apparently, none of us is giving you the answer you were wanting to hear.
Yeah I think you guys are right about the towing. I have a pickup truck too so I have no need to tow. I should just refrain all together if I install this. I don't want to be liable for a failure. And don't want to harm others. In my 4 years of ownership I towed a boat once so losing towing isn't really a big deal for me.
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Are you saying that just cutting it our and welding this in could cause a bent frame? That makes me a bit more nervous about doing it. If it bends while it is being cut out and replaced I would be welding it back together twisted. Hmm
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black pearl
Hooked
The heat from when it's welded together puts stress in the steel and when it's cut apart it can move in some wild ways I've seen it in a lot of different things I have dismantled...
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jeeeep
Hooked
i can tell you from experience, once the frame is cut if it shifts, it takes a lot of work and a proper alignment rack to get it right.
If you're going to do it, take the time to measure how it is now.
once you have your OEM measurements, tack cross braces on the top and bottom of the frame rails close to what you're cutting off then do your cutting.
Make clean cuts so if you decide to go back to stock you have the original cross member.
Good luck
If you're going to do it, take the time to measure how it is now.
once you have your OEM measurements, tack cross braces on the top and bottom of the frame rails close to what you're cutting off then do your cutting.
Make clean cuts so if you decide to go back to stock you have the original cross member.
Good luck
I definitely can understand the danger. I don't have an alignment rack or even a car lift. I am planning on doing this in my driveway. I made a quick sketch of what I think you want me to do to prevent it from shifting. I leave the truck on the tires so I don't twist it jacking it up. I place a 1/4 wall 2x 8 tube I got on the ground below the frame. Weld vertical horizontal and cross braces in place with tack welds. Take measurements off of the base tube. Cut the oem crossmember out. Verify nothing moved and my measurements are the same. If they are weld it in and verify post welding once more. If it moves after cutting use Jacks and straps or whatever to make it meet the original measurements. Then weld it in and verify post welding. Does this sound like a good plan or do u have any changes or recommendations?
