Jeep JT Gladiator Rubicon 3.6 V6

Guascone

Guascone

Member
Hi guys, after ten years of driving my Rubicon 2.8 diesel I decided to change it for a JT 3.6 V6.
The JT which I chosen is a low mileage pre owned car.
I live in Italy and that engine is not so common…is there something specific that should I know about it? Is there any weakness on it?
By reading this forum I think that it is a quite reliable engine…am I right?

Thanks as always for your help!
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
The previous 3.6 engines had lifter and cam problems and the oil cooler would leak. I'm not sure if these parts were updated for the JL/JT.
 
Guascone

Guascone

Member
Thanks for your replay! Are that problems easily to be repaired or are they a big mess?
Is there an average mileage when the failures occur or are they happening randomly?
 
GP NOIR

GP NOIR

Hooked
The lifter problem was primarily with the 2012 and early 2013 engines. The lifter bearings would fail prematurely and start to wear the cam lobes. If left long enough, metal filings will migrate to the cam bearing surfaces (which can only be repaired by replacing the head) and the engine block (necessitating an engine overhaul).

Lifter bearing failure can occur in newer 3.6 engine, but isn’t as prevalent. When a lifter bearing does go bad, there will be a ticking noise. If caught soon enough (before the cam is damaged), it can be repaired by replacing the lifters and push rods.

Using the specialty tools, which are inexpensive and can be ordered on Amazon, replacing the lifters and push rods is a straight forward job, once you have the upper and lower intakes off. If you have a shop do the work, your wallet will take a hard hit!

The oil cooler/filter housing is made of plastic and is known to fail. Dorman makes an aluminum replacement that’s supposed to be a fix (I have no first hand experience with it) and is about $300, give or take. I haven’t had a problem with the oil cooler yet.

I have a 2012 Rubicon I bought a year ago with 122,000 miles on it and have put 20,000 miles on it since. In that time, I’ve replaced the thermostat, oil pressure sensor and clutch. I need to replace the belt tensioner, belt and the power steering pump is going bad. Other than that, the engine has been trouble free.

My 3.6 doesn’t use much oil, but the engine is sensitive about oil level and oil changes. Keep the fluids topped off and keep the air filter clean. Cold air intakes are a waste of money. Keep the battery terminals clean and tight.

The 3.6 loves to rev!
 
Guascone

Guascone

Member
GP NOIR said:
The lifter problem was primarily with the 2012 and early 2013 engines. The lifter bearings would fail prematurely and start to wear the cam lobes. If left long enough, metal filings will migrate to the cam bearing surfaces (which can only be repaired by replacing the head) and the engine block (necessitating an engine overhaul).

Lifter bearing failure can occur in newer 3.6 engine, but isn’t as prevalent. When a lifter bearing does go bad, there will be a ticking noise. If caught soon enough (before the cam is damaged), it can be repaired by replacing the lifters and push rods.

Using the specialty tools, which are inexpensive and can be ordered on Amazon, replacing the lifters and push rods is a straight forward job, once you have the upper and lower intakes off. If you have a shop do the work, your wallet will take a hard hit!

The oil cooler/filter housing is made of plastic and is known to fail. Dorman makes an aluminum replacement that’s supposed to be a fix (I have no first hand experience with it) and is about $300, give or take. I haven’t had a problem with the oil cooler yet.

I have a 2012 Rubicon I bought a year ago with 122,000 miles on it and have put 20,000 miles on it since. In that time, I’ve replaced the thermostat, oil pressure sensor and clutch. I need to replace the belt tensioner, belt and the power steering pump is going bad. Other than that, the engine has been trouble free.

My 3.6 doesn’t use much oil, but the engine is sensitive about oil level and oil changes. Keep the fluids topped off and keep the air filter clean. Cold air intakes are a waste of money. Keep the battery terminals clean and tight.

The 3.6 loves to rev!
Click to expand...
Thanks for your clear replay!!! I’m exited to pick it up.

the 2.8 diesel engine was fine but I was dreaming the gasoline engine since I bought the JK…
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
GP NOIR said:
Lifter bearing failure can occur in newer 3.6 engine, but isn’t as prevalent. When a lifter bearing does go bad, there will be a ticking noise. If caught soon enough (before the cam is damaged), it can be repaired by replacing the lifters and push rods.

Using the specialty tools, which are inexpensive and can be ordered on Amazon, replacing the lifters and push rods is a straight forward job, once you have the upper and lower intakes off. If you have a shop do the work, your wallet will take a hard hit!
Click to expand...
The newer 3.6 engines have push rods? First I've heard of that.
 
GP NOIR

GP NOIR

Hooked
WJCO said:
The newer 3.6 engines have push rods? First I've heard of that.
Click to expand...
It was late and my brain mush. Change "Lifter" to "Rocker Arm" (7) and "Push Rod" to "Valve Lash Adjuster" (8) in my previous post.

4321e4e3ca4c8ff802c220bb6a110f9a.png


OverlanderJK said:
Cams and push rods. More strongerest.
Click to expand...
No, rocker arms and lash adjusters are strongerest.

Sheesh!
 
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Guascone

Guascone

Member
Now that I have the Gladiator in the garage, it’s time for servicing it.
The seller has not given me the owner manual…so, the oil grade should be 0w20 full synthetic, correct?
The holding capacity, changing also the filter, should be 4.75 l. Is it worth to bui f original mopar parts (filters) and mopar oil?
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Guascone said:
Now that I have the Gladiator in the garage, it’s time for servicing it.
The seller has not given me the owner manual…so, the oil grade should be 0w20 full synthetic, correct?
The holding capacity, changing also the filter, should be 4.75 l. Is it worth to bui f original mopar parts (filters) and mopar oil?
Click to expand...
The oil is listed on the fill cap but yes, that is correct. Also, one 5 quart oil jug will be what you need, full synthetic and MS-6395 compliant. I always use Mopar filters as it will ensure the right fit. MO-349 is what you need for that and you can literally find them at Walmart.
 
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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Guascone said:
Now that I have the Gladiator in the garage, it’s time for servicing it.
The seller has not given me the owner manual…so, the oil grade should be 0w20 full synthetic, correct?
The holding capacity, changing also the filter, should be 4.75 l. Is it worth to bui f original mopar parts (filters) and mopar oil?
Click to expand...
Also, when you put 5 quarts in, it likely will not register on the dipstick. Unless, the dipstick has been updated, mine never registers and I know others that have had the same issue.
 
Guascone

Guascone

Member
WJCO said:
Also, when you put 5 quarts in, it likely will not register on the dipstick. Unless, the dipstick has been updated, mine never registers and I know others that have had the same issue.
Click to expand...
I'm sorry, I didn't understand very well your reply. What do you mean with updated dipstick? The physical part?

And what about the dashbooard...how can I reset the timing counter and the oil degradation percentage?
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Guascone said:
I'm sorry, I didn't understand very well your reply. What do you mean with updated dipstick? The physical part?

And what about the dashbooard...how can I reset the timing counter and the oil degradation percentage?
Click to expand...
Capacity is 5 quarts but if I put 5 quarts in, I get no reading on the dipstick. I'm not sure if the dipstick has been updated or not, but I know of others who have the same issue.

As far as resetting the dash:

reset.JPG
 
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