Exodus Jeeps 7075 XD Tie Rods

MericaMade

Active Member
Bubba,

Would you say this is stronger then other tie rods on the market or is it more flexible or both? And just for my confirmation will this fit on a Dana 44 with the Evo drag link flip? I asked because there are certain things I've seen and like but they only fit with aftermarket axles.

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desertrunner

Active Member
Bubba,

Would you say this is stronger then other tie rods on the market or is it more flexible or both? And just for my confirmation will this fit on a Dana 44 with the Evo drag link flip? I asked because there are certain things I've seen and like but they only fit with aftermarket axles.

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Can't speak for strength but I can speak to flexibility. I drug mine over a rock and it deformed like crazy and came back straight and have personally seen stock ones be bent from the amount of deflection I had. I do have a PR44 but I don't see why it wouldn't fit a stock 44. Also you should have no issues with the Evo flip there will be no clearance issues VideoCapture_20190831-163901.jpeg VideoCapture_20190831-155127.jpeg 20190608_113410.jpg

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jdofmemi

Active Member
Bubba,

Would you say this is stronger then other tie rods on the market or is it more flexible or both? And just for my confirmation will this fit on a Dana 44 with the Evo drag link flip? I asked because there are certain things I've seen and like but they only fit with aftermarket axles.

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I'm running it on a factory D-44 with the drag link flip.

I don't know about others on the market, but you can jack your Jeep up with this rod, make it smile really big, and when you take the load off, it will be as straight as the day you took it out of the box.

Mine has pushed so many rocks out of the way that most of the anodized coating on the front and bottom is gone. I would have gotten a bare one, but he was out when I needed it.

Other than having it rotate due to forgetting to put lock tight on the jamb nuts, it has been perfect.
 

nmwranglerx

Caught the Bug
Can't speak for strength but I can speak to flexibility. I drug mine over a rock and it deformed like crazy and came back straight and have personally seen stock ones be bent from the amount of deflection I had. I do have a PR44 but I don't see why it wouldn't fit a stock 44. Also you should have no issues with the Evo flip there will be no clearance issues View attachment 337877 View attachment 337878 View attachment 337879

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That tie rod looks really stout. Two questions: did you get the finish from Exodus or just rattle can it and which drag link is that?
 

Exodus 4x4

New member
Bubba,

Would you say this is stronger then other tie rods on the market or is it more flexible or both? And just for my confirmation will this fit on a Dana 44 with the Evo drag link flip? I asked because there are certain things I've seen and like but they only fit with aftermarket axles.

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7075 is 7075, so I can really say it’s stronger than other 7075 aluminum tie rods. I believe it’s better than most tie rods available, but Dave (Synergy) and I have had a few conversations about tie rods and his chromoly tie rod technically is stronger. The Synergy tie rod is a specific type of chromoly that bends and goes back straight like the aluminum tie rod, but without an “expiration date”. What that means is that the 7075 can only be bent so many times until it’s elasticity is diminished, and it stays bent. The reality is though, you’ll never hit it against that many rocks. That duty cycle is a ridiculously high number. If you somehow manage to bend it, I’ll gladly replace it for free. What I’m not exactly sure about is if the chromoly Synergy uses can flex as MUCH as the 7075. I’d think the aluminum could flex more, but I can’t make that claim for sure.


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danford.lau

Caught the Bug
7075 is 7075, so I can really say it’s stronger than other 7075 aluminum tie rods. I believe it’s better than most tie rods available, but Dave (Synergy) and I have had a few conversations about tie rods and his chromoly tie rod technically is stronger. The Synergy tie rod is a specific type of chromoly that bends and goes back straight like the aluminum tie rod, but without an “expiration date”. What that means is that the 7075 can only be bent so many times until it’s elasticity is diminished, and it stays bent. The reality is though, you’ll never hit it against that many rocks. That duty cycle is a ridiculously high number. If you somehow manage to bend it, I’ll gladly replace it for free. What I’m not exactly sure about is if the chromoly Synergy uses can flex as MUCH as the 7075. I’d think the aluminum could flex more, but I can’t make that claim for sure.


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Here is a video of me abusing the synergy tie rod . Have been really happy with it to date . Was going to get yours bud you were out of stock at that exact time

https://youtu.be/sAm7gF0uzE8


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MericaMade

Active Member
I'm running it on a factory D-44 with the drag link flip.

I don't know about others on the market, but you can jack your Jeep up with this rod, make it smile really big, and when you take the load off, it will be as straight as the day you took it out of the box.

Mine has pushed so many rocks out of the way that most of the anodized coating on the front and bottom is gone. I would have gotten a bare one, but he was out when I needed it.

Other than having it rotate due to forgetting to put lock tight on the jamb nuts, it has been perfect.
Thank you good to know and I like what I am seeing in the videos about.
7075 is 7075, so I can really say it’s stronger than other 7075 aluminum tie rods. I believe it’s better than most tie rods available, but Dave (Synergy) and I have had a few conversations about tie rods and his chromoly tie rod technically is stronger. The Synergy tie rod is a specific type of chromoly that bends and goes back straight like the aluminum tie rod, but without an “expiration date”. What that means is that the 7075 can only be bent so many times until it’s elasticity is diminished, and it stays bent. The reality is though, you’ll never hit it against that many rocks. That duty cycle is a ridiculously high number. If you somehow manage to bend it, I’ll gladly replace it for free. What I’m not exactly sure about is if the chromoly Synergy uses can flex as MUCH as the 7075. I’d think the aluminum could flex more, but I can’t make that claim for sure.


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Thanks Bubba I am going put a order in with you around black Friday.

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TrailHunter

Hooked
So I haven’t wheeled with the new stabilizer on yet... last time out (with the stabilizer removed) the lower tab got bent from the tie rod pushing up into it from a rock.

Is this normal? Did I mount the shock too close to the tie rod? I was trying to get it as parallel as possible with a little wiggle room. Next time this happens it will be pushing into the lower shock nut for sure.

IMG_2008.jpg
 

BaddestCross

Active Member
So I haven’t wheeled with the new stabilizer on yet... last time out (with the stabilizer removed) the lower tab got bent from the tie rod pushing up into it from a rock.

Is this normal? Did I mount the shock too close to the tie rod? I was trying to get it as parallel as possible with a little wiggle room. Next time this happens it will be pushing into the lower shock nut for sure.

View attachment 337950
How much is it pushing into it? Is it just barely hitting it or what? When I installed my ram, I had to grind the nut down by about half so my tie rod would clear it, but after that it was good.



--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 

jdofmemi

Active Member
So I haven’t wheeled with the new stabilizer on yet... last time out (with the stabilizer removed) the lower tab got bent from the tie rod pushing up into it from a rock.

Is this normal? Did I mount the shock too close to the tie rod? I was trying to get it as parallel as possible with a little wiggle room. Next time this happens it will be pushing into the lower shock nut for sure.

View attachment 337950

How much is it pushing into it? Is it just barely hitting it or what? When I installed my ram, I had to grind the nut down by about half so my tie rod would clear it, but after that it was good.



--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407

It don't hit unless you are jacked up on a rock. With the stabilizer bolted in place, it will probably keep it from bending the tabs, since they will be in effect boxed due to the bolt tying the top and bottom together.

If you don't drive like me it should be just fine, even if it runs now and then.
 

TrailHunter

Hooked
It don't hit unless you are jacked up on a rock. With the stabilizer bolted in place, it will probably keep it from bending the tabs, since they will be in effect boxed due to the bolt tying the top and bottom together.

If you don't drive like me it should be just fine, even if it runs now and then.

Right.... should be fine... just more pressure on the track bar bracket... but I don't see any way around it.... shits gonna hit.
 

Ddays

Hooked
Bubba with how flexible these things are have you seen any issues with people running hydro assist with them and them flexing under the pressure of the hydro?

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I've has zero issues with mine. Been on since March or so. And the pressure on a hydro setup is in a longitudinal direction so there really wouldn't be much flexing in that direction.
 

Exodus 4x4

New member
So I haven’t wheeled with the new stabilizer on yet... last time out (with the stabilizer removed) the lower tab got bent from the tie rod pushing up into it from a rock.

Is this normal? Did I mount the shock too close to the tie rod? I was trying to get it as parallel as possible with a little wiggle room. Next time this happens it will be pushing into the lower shock nut for sure.

View attachment 337950

I would flip the bolt over. Other than that I don’t really see you getting around that rubbing, other than switching your clamp to a high mounting point and moving the track bar mounting location higher.


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TrailHunter

Hooked
I would flip the bolt over. Other than that I don’t really see you getting around that rubbing, other than switching your clamp to a high mounting point and moving the track bar mounting location higher.


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I’m going to try and squeeze a button head bolt in from the bottom to minimize any gouging on the tie rod.
 

fiend

Caught the Bug
You can get half height nylock nuts from McMaster Carr. I’d suggest that over sticking the bolt up from the bottom. If the nut falls off the bolt will fall out.


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