EVO level kit

[18_JKU]

The other day it dawned on me that my suspension setup isn’t what it can be, and by that I mean I believe I can gain a lot more down travel by switching shocks. Let me start with what I have; EVO mfg 2” soft ride springs up front, removed the 3/4” rear spacer they provide in the leveling kit and replaced the rear springs with synergy 1” lift springs, rock krawler front lower control arms, synergy stackable bumps, synergy brake line drop brackets, jks front disconnects, synergy rear sway bar links, falcon 2.1’s (1.5-2.5), riding on 285/75r17’s. While this works, and rides good (a touch too stiff in my opinion) I had the front apart a few months back and noticed how short my shocks are (front extended 25.1”, 16.7” compressed, rear extended 24.4”, 16” compressed).

So what I’m thinking is changing back to a set of 5100’s that have a extended length of 27.56” and collapsed of 16.4”, this will I’m assuming max put the droop of my stock front driveshaft correct? I’m basing that off of a 2.5” rk lift running those shocks. Has anyone run a 27” extended shock on the EVO 2” springs and work out good? And on the rear I was planing on running a 26.38” extended shocks (same shocks rk calls for on their 2.5” kit). And if anyone asks there is no reason I’m doing this in particular other then in my head I can get more articulation “just in case”. We like fire roads and exploring the mountains, no extreme rock crawling for us but I would like to explore uwharrie national Forrest that I’ve done in our old toyota.

I guess my question is has anyone gained more droop on a leveling kit with a shock meant for a 3-4” lift?

 

[CrazyTrainJK]

If you are still running a factory front drive shaft that will be your limiting factor for sure. I run the 3" EVO Enforcer lift and currently have front shocks with 25.06 extended and run into issues with the shock body getting into the frame rail at full droop. My rear shocks are 27.27 extended and no issues.

 

[18_JKU]

If you are still running a factory front drive shaft that will be your limiting factor for sure. I run the 3" EVO Enforcer lift and currently have front shocks with 25.06 extended and run into issues with the shock body getting into the frame rail at full droop. My rear shocks are 27.27 extended and no issues.

yes still on the stock front shaft, I have changed the shocks and saw that it lays on the cross over with about an inch left of droop. I found rancho makes a replacement pipe that hopefully will give me enough clearance so I don’t have to change the shaft and get into having vibrations or being worried about u joints breaking (I’ve read horror stories of u joints breaking on aftermarket shafts, vibrations, tcases exploding).

 

[CrazyTrainJK]

Never heard or had any issues with my Tom Woods 1350 front shaft. You would be better off replacing the front shaft instead of lowering your exhaust making it a bigger target for rocks and such

 

[MericaMade]

yes still on the stock front shaft, I have changed the shocks and saw that it lays on the cross over with about an inch left of droop. I found rancho makes a replacement pipe that hopefully will give me enough clearance so I don’t have to change the shaft and get into having vibrations or being worried about u joints breaking (I’ve read horror stories of u joints breaking on aftermarket shafts, vibrations, tcases exploding).

That is going to break down your driveshaft fast if the cross pipe is stopping full extension. Look into JE Reel or Adams driveshafts. You are better off putting money into a stronger 1350 driveshaft for future addons over the exhaust pipe replacement.

 

[18_JKU]

Never heard or had any issues with my Tom Woods 1350 front shaft. You would be better off replacing the front shaft instead of lowering your exhaust making it a bigger target for rocks and such

That is going to break down your driveshaft fast if the cross pipe is stopping full extension. Look into JE Reel or Adams driveshafts. You are better off putting money into a stronger 1350 driveshaft for future addons over the exhaust pipe replacement.

the piece I found doesn’t lower it just puts the bend in a different spot so it still fits with skid plates. I have no problem going aftermarket driveshaft (was looking into olivers since they are local and I have a buddy that works there) but I have seen more then one post on vibrations and joints exploding with the 1310 shafts. I’m not going to a 1350 shaft as I’d rather the shaft be the fuse rather then taking out a axle/ring gear. Again this is all hearsay, but I figure for this low of lift and 35’s If I can get clearance I shouldn’t “need” to step up to a new shaft.

 

[Colorado4x4]

I’m speaking from personal experience here. Everyone always said on here that if you wheel and flex it out it’s only a matter of time until the rzeppa joint rips because it gets pinched at the extreme angle. I thought “nah, it won’t happen that quick”. Well it is true. If you wheel and flex the rzeppa joint will tear. I did run a 1310 Adam’s driveshaft on my old JK and had hell with vibrations. Turned out it was not balanced from Adam’s. The local shop got it balanced but I swear I could still feel vibrations. Now I’ve got a newer 2016 JKU and I installed a Pro Rock 44 with the added castor and put on a 1310 and have zero vibrations, but the pinion angle is better on my housing vs the stock 44.