Driveshafts

Breer

Caught the Bug
Somehow missed this thread. Really good information. About to need front and rear 1350 shafts. I have a shop a little over an hour away that quoted me almost the exact same price as ordering one of the common names online. I was planning on ordering online as it is more convenient since the Jeep won't be driveable. Rethinking that now.. 🤔

Yeah, I prefer Neapco. They’re made in the USA and they’ve always served me well.

Gonna ask the local shop about this also. Thank you! 👍🍻
 

JimLee

Hooked
Somehow missed this thread. Really good information. About to need front and rear 1350 shafts. I have a shop a little over an hour away that quoted me almost the exact same price as ordering one of the common names online. I was planning on ordering online as it is more convenient since the Jeep won't be driveable. Rethinking that now.. 🤔



Gonna ask the local shop about this also. Thank you! 👍🍻
Order up a couple of Neapco Gold 1350 u joints to throw in your tool box as well. I got the sealed ones, they don't take up hardly any room and better safe than sorry, although I don't think I'll be breaking any of these. If you go double cardan you've now got 6 u joints under there.
 

Breer

Caught the Bug
Order up a couple of Neapco Gold 1350 u joints to throw in your tool box as well. I got the sealed ones, they don't take up hardly any room and better safe than sorry, although I don't think I'll be breaking any of these. If you go double cardan you've now got 6 u joints under there.

For sure! Do you or anyone else use or prefer a u-joint press tool? I have always used the socket and hammer method... I got hit with a very targeted ad the other day for one and have been curious lol.
 

jeeeep

Hooked
For sure! Do you or anyone else use or prefer a u-joint press tool? I have always used the socket and hammer method... I got hit with a very targeted ad the other day for one and have been curious lol.
I've got a tiger tool joint puller and cup installer, makes it easy to replace u-joints.
 

Breer

Caught the Bug
I've got a tiger tool joint puller and cup installer, makes it easy to replace u-joints.

That is what the ad was for haha!

These little boogers are expensive as hell, but the first time you use it you'll realize it's worth even more.

Definitely seems like it, could be more useful to have the vise for other things too instead of the tool only made for u joints..
 

Ddays

Hooked
That is what the ad was for haha!



Definitely seems like it, could be more useful to have the vise for other things too instead of the tool only made for u joints..

I use this constantly. Even for non Jeep shit.
same as my onboard compressor.
The first time you press a u-joint with this instead of trying to pound the caps on top of a rock or some other nonsense you’ll never bitch about the cost
 

jeeeep

Hooked
These little boogers are expensive as hell, but the first time you use it you'll realize it's worth even more.
I looked up what I paid in 2016 and what they sell for now, they're cheaper!

makes me wonder if there is a material difference but not enough to buy one to compare lol
 

Breer

Caught the Bug
I use this constantly. Even for non Jeep shit.
same as my onboard compressor.
The first time you press a u-joint with this instead of trying to pound the caps on top of a rock or some other nonsense you’ll never bitch about the cost
That's exactly what I was thinking. I'm trying to transition away from working harder and not smarter! 🤣
 
@JimLee @wayoflife Hey, either of you guys have the Neapco part numbers for the front 1350 you had made? I’m wanting the stock ujoint on the diff and the double cardan and yoke on the transfer case. I’m assuming they are the same as the JK but my local guy hasn’t built a JL driveshaft yet it seems and he’s a little confused as to what to order. He’s also trying to push me to 1310s. 🤦‍♂️
 

CalSgt

Hooked
I don’t have parts numbers but the front double cardan for the JL needs to mount using a half round yoke not a flange mount like the JK.

Like this
IMG_4637.jpeg

Otherwise you will have clearance issues, been there & done that.

IMG_4633.jpeg
 

CalSgt

Hooked
@JimLee @wayoflife Hey, either of you guys have the Neapco part numbers for the front 1350 you had made? I’m wanting the stock ujoint on the diff and the double cardan and yoke on the transfer case. I’m assuming they are the same as the JK but my local guy hasn’t built a JL driveshaft yet it seems and he’s a little confused as to what to order. He’s also trying to push me to 1310s. 🤦‍♂️

My shop pushed the 1310 too primarily because they get fewer vibration complaints. When I told them what type of wheeling I had planned they said the 1350 would be a better fit.

I did a week in Moab, then Rubicon and Fordyce in a the six months after it was finished. Still no vibrations either…
 

JimLee

Hooked
@JimLee @wayoflife Hey, either of you guys have the Neapco part numbers for the front 1350 you had made? I’m wanting the stock ujoint on the diff and the double cardan and yoke on the transfer case. I’m assuming they are the same as the JK but my local guy hasn’t built a JL driveshaft yet it seems and he’s a little confused as to what to order. He’s also trying to push me to 1310s. 🤦‍♂️
All of the 1350 u joints I got are Neapco 2-0053G. I don't have the flange PN as it came with the T.W. driveshafts I ordered. It's a half round like mentioned above, flange in the rear. I can probably scrounge up the yoke PN, but it may be a Tom Woods specific PN, let me know. I wouldn't do 1310s, the stock driveshafts are stronger than a 1310.
 
All of the 1350 u joints I got are Neapco 2-0053G. I don't have the flange PN as it came with the T.W. driveshafts I ordered. It's a half round like mentioned above, flange in the rear. I can probably scrounge up the yoke PN, but it may be a Tom Woods specific PN, let me know. I wouldn't do 1310s, the stock driveshafts are stronger than a 1310.
Thanks for that info, I’ll check those out and will see if Neapco has the half round yoke. And yes, I’m not going to put money into a 1310… 1350 all the way.
 
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