40k too soon for ball joints??

[FuriousDz]

Hey Guys, so Im having some front end issues with death wobble.

Most of the time its fine but certain railroad tracks and bumps will get it going.
So I crawled under to have a look and make sure everything was tight then had someone move the sterring wheel back and fourth to see what moved.
Track bar looks good but there is some play in my tie rod ends and even some in the drag link.

Since Im not comfortable assesing this myself I took it to the shop that installed the lift and they pretty much confirmed its an ball joint issue.
They said they would put the synergey tie rod and high steer drag link in to fix the issue.

So my question is, is 40k too soon for these to fail? and if so is their solution the right way to go?

Im running 37 toyo's on 1.5 spacers for the past 10k
before that it was 35 nitto trail grapplers withOUT spacers for about 25k.

Thanks
Mike

 

[FuriousDz]

Anyone?....Bueller....Bueller....

 

[Moochie]

Not to early. I replaced mine twice close to this mileage. 2nd time I went with Dynatrac Prosteers. They are not cheap but, this will be the last time I ever have to buy ball joints..

 

[Rippin Lipz]

My stock ball joints lasted 7,000 miles after I put on 38's and 1.5 spacers. They were completely FUBARed.

 

[FuriousDz]

OK guess This is what Ill be doing then...

Thanks guys I appreciate it

 

[4x4Jesus]

I had factory ball joints replaced once under warranty at 15k miles with stock drivetrain and now I just had to replace them at 60k running 35" falkens for two years. I just replaced ball joints, trac bar(40k miles) and steering stabilizer. Now the jeep drives as good as new

 

[FuriousDz]

I had factory ball joints replaced once under warranty at 15k miles with stock drivetrain and now I just had to replace them at 60k running 35" falkens for two years. I just replaced ball joints, trac bar(40k miles) and steering stabilizer. Now the jeep drives as good as new

I'm hoping the new tie rod and drag link do the same!

 

[munstie]

Replaced mine at 32000.

2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.

 

[4x4Jesus]

I'm hoping the new tie rod and drag link do the same!

If your ball joints are having any movement then they need to be replaced otherwise they are just going to trash any other new components you install

 

[catahoula]

From what you are running? I would say no.

 

[catahoula]

Not to early. I replaced mine twice close to this mileage. 2nd time I went with Dynatrac Prosteers. They are not cheap but, this will be the last time I ever have to buy ball joints..

Holy shit those aren't cheap. How do you like?

 

[Moochie]

Holy shit those aren't cheap. How do you like?

Great so far! I have 40,000 miles on them now. Another good thing about Prosteers is that they can be rebuilt if needed. I recently had them removed from my bent 44 housing and reinstalled into a new Pro Rock 44.

 

[FuriousDz]

When I do the prorock 44 its absolutely going to have prosteers :thumb:

 

[TeamFaust]

Okay, so if ProSteer are the benchmark but at their price of around $600 are out of current budget, what would be the next suggestion for replacing stock ball joints running say a 3" lift with 35s on a JKU?
Synergy or Alloy USA at around $200? Other suggestions?

 

[highoctane]

Have you ever seen the inside of a JK OEM ball joint? Really weak and thin plastic, relatively light application of grease in them, and sealed/ungreaseable. I'm surprised they last as long at 20k miles. I went to Synergy joints that really tightened up the steering feel, only because they were a Christmas gift. I'd have loved to have bought the Dynatrac ball joints.

 

[wayoflife]

Okay, so if ProSteer are the benchmark but at their price of around $600 are out of current budget, what would be the next suggestion for replacing stock ball joints running say a 3" lift with 35s on a JKU?
Synergy or Alloy USA at around $200? Other suggestions?

ProSteers are the benchmark because with them, you'll never need to buy another set again. Unlike ANY OTHER aftermarket ball joints you can get, the ProSteers have a different method of operation. OE and ALL other aftermarket ball joints have a bottom joint that pivots and a top joint that allows up and down motion but no pivot. The Dynatrac ProSteer ball joints have a bottom joint that allows pivot and, a top joint that goes up and down AND pivots. This helps keep the ball joints aligned with each other without binding. Bent end forgings or, axle C's are very common in JKs and, this specific feature of the ProSteer's is a crucial part to ball joint longevity.

If you still want to get a cheaper ball joint, I would recommend getting a set of Crown HD joints as they are the same as Synergy and Alloy USA only cost less.

 

[TeamFaust]

ProSteers are the benchmark because with them, you'll never need to buy another set again. Unlike ANY OTHER aftermarket ball joints you can get, the ProSteers have a different method of operation. OE and ALL other aftermarket ball joints have a bottom joint that pivots and a top joint that allows up and down motion but no pivot. The Dynatrac ProSteer ball joints have a bottom joint that allows pivot and, a top joint that goes up and down AND pivots. This helps keep the ball joints aligned with each other without binding. Bent end forgings or, axle C's are very common in JKs and, this specific feature of the ProSteer's is a crucial part to ball joint longevity.

If you still want to get a cheaper ball joint, I would recommend getting a set of Crown HD joints as they are the same as Synergy and Alloy USA only cost less.

Helpful information/explaination Eddie, much appreciated. Will now seriously consider saving up for the ProSteer.